Warp Knitted Fabrics Construction

Cover
Half Title
Title Page
Copyright Page
Dedication
Contents
Foreword
Preface
Author
Symbols
Part I: Fundamentals of warp knitting
	1. Warp knitting process fundamentals
		1.1 Introduction
		1.2 Knitting process and pattern notation
		1.3 Open and closed loops
		1.4 Numerical notation issue
		1.5 Connecting loops in spacer structures
		1.6 Tempi- 2- and 3-, 4- and 6- tempi lapping movements
		1.7 Threading
		1.8 Left and right hand side pattern drive
		1.9 Guide bar numbering
		1.10 Fineness
		1.11 Courses, wales, rack, run-in
		1.12 Face and back sides of fabric and loop
		1.13 Single and double face fabrics
		1.14 Repeats
		1.15 Conclusions
	2. Lapping movements and stitch types
		2.1 Introduction
		2.2 One tempi laps for laid-in or weft insertion
		2.3 Laps in the same course - pillar stitch
		2.4 Balanced laps in two courses
		2.5 Atlas laps
		2.6 Atlas laps with back laps
		2.7 Laps over two needles
		2.8 Special lapping movements
		2.9 Conclusions
Part II: Loop based single face structures
	3. Single guide bar fabrics
		3.1 Introduction
		3.2 Pillar stitch chains
		3.3 Tricot stitch fabrics
		3.4 Cord stitch fabrics
		3.5 Satin and velvet fabrics
		3.6 Atlas fabrics
		3.7 Back lapped atlas with full and partial threading
		3.8 Fabrics with lapping over two needles
		3.9 Combined stitches
		3.10 Conclusions
	4. Two full threaded guide bars with tricot lapping
		4.1 Introduction
		4.2 Plated loops
		4.3 Positions of the loops and underlaps
		4.4 Vertical orientation of plated loops
		4.5 Tricot-tricot combinations
		4.6 Colour patterning
		4.7 Conclusions
	5. Fabrics with full threading
		5.1 Introduction
		5.2 Terminological issues
		5.3 Cord stitch
		5.4 Cord-Tricot Combinations
		5.5 Tricot-Cord Combinations
		5.6 More combinations with laps over one or two courses
		5.7 Atlas based structures
		5.8 Tricot atlas sequences
		5.9 Conclusions
	6. Two bar fabrics with partial threading
		6.1 Introduction
		6.2 Consistency check of loop existence in each wale
		6.3 Different ways to influence the threading
		6.4 Simple fillet (mesh) structures
			6.4.1 Symmetrical structures with half threading 1-in 1-out
			6.4.2 Symmetrical mesh structures with 2-in 2-out threading
			6.4.3 Asymmetrical structures
		6.5 Combined fillet structures
		6.6 Conclusions
Part III: Single face structures with more structural elements
	7. Laid-in fabrics
		7.1 Introduction
		7.2 Terminological issues
		7.3 Rules for laid-in placement
			7.3.1 Basic rules
			7.3.2 Generalized rule for underlap intersection in laid-in fabrics
			7.3.3 Examples with application of the basic rule
			7.3.4 Laid-in without underlap
		7.4 Laid-in as filling
		7.5 Half-mesh structure - alternating loop and laid-in
		7.6 Laid-in fabrics as rectangular net
			7.6.1 Ground structure
			7.6.2 Lace patterning
			7.6.3 Lace examples with seventeen and nineteen bars
			7.6.4 Lace example with triangular effects in the connection areas
			7.6.5 Edges intensification
		7.7 Integrating the decorative laid-in yarns in the ground effects
			7.7.1 Connection of the laid-in yarns as figures only
		7.8 Octagonal mesh with lock stitches
			7.8.1 Lace example
		7.9 Hexagonal meshes
			7.9.1 Pattern
			7.9.2 Example structure
			7.9.3 Elastic ground
		7.10 Conclusions
	8. Additional patterning possibilities
		8.1 Introduction
		8.2 Fall plate fabrics
		8.3 Cut presser
		8.4 Pleating
		8.5 Electronic beam control
		8.6 Conclusions
	9. Jacquard fabrics
		9.1 Introduction
		9.2 Jacquard types and machine configurations
		9.3 Principle of loop based jacquard
		9.4 Design colours
		9.5 Fabrics sample
		9.6 Laid-in based jacquard
			9.6.1 Laid-in jacquard examples
			9.6.2 Laid-in jacquard with different ground pattern
		9.7 Tuck (fall plate) based jacquard
		9.8 Tuck (fall plate) with jacquard ground
		9.9 Threading and control of jacquard bars
		9.10 Conclusions
Part IV: Structures from double needle bar machines
	10. Double needle bar structures - fundamentals and double face structures
		10.1 Introduction
		10.2 Machine configuration
		10.3 Notation of the lapping movement
		10.4 Design principle of double face fabrics
		10.5 Loop types
		10.6 Double face structures with one guide bar
			10.6.1 Chaining laps
			10.6.2 Atlas laps
			10.6.3 Laps for equivalent both sides
		10.7 Conclusions
	11. Double face fabrics with multiple guide bars
		11.1 Introduction
		11.2 Connection types
		11.3 Fabrics with two guide bars
			11.3.1 Symmetric lapping
			11.3.2 Asymmetric lapping
			11.3.3 Underlaps connected fabric
			11.3.4 Mesh structures
			11.3.5 Laid in double face fabrics
		11.4 Fabrics with three and more guide bars
			11.4.1 Spacer fabrics with four or six guide bars and laid-in
			11.4.2 Spacer mesh fabrics
			11.4.3 Samples
			11.4.4 Hollow fabrics
		11.5 Jacquard
Part V: Engineering design
	12. Calculations
		12.1 Introduction
		12.2 Yarn length per loop
			12.2.1 Lenght of the loop head
			12.2.2 Length of the loop arms
			12.2.3 Underlap length
			12.2.4 Complete equation
			12.2.5 Grosberg model
			12.2.6 Machine State Loop Model of S. Raz
		12.3 Other structural elements
			12.3.1 Laid in (Weft) Insertion
			12.3.2 Loops over two needle
			12.3.3 Double face and spacer fabrics
		12.4 Lengths per rack
		12.5 Fabric weight
		12.6 Conclusions
	13. Software for design of warp knitted structures
		13.1 Introduction
		13.2 Historical remarks
		13.3 Machine definition
		13.4 Yarn definition
		13.5 Pattern editing
		13.6 Threading
		13.7 Pattern update and exports
		13.8 Take-off and run-in
		13.9 3D images
		13.10 Export options of the pattern
		13.11 Conclusions
Bibliography
Index