The Routledge History of Fashion and Dress, 1800 to the Present

Cover
Half Title
Series Page
Title Page
Copyright Page
Contents
Figures
Contributors
Introduction: Fashion Reinvention
	Historians and Fashion
	The Structure of the Book
	Alternative Readings
	Acknowledgments
	Notes
	Bibliography
Part I: Manufacturing and Materiality
1. The Sewing Machine
	Introduction
	Plotting the Global Diffusion of the Consumer Sewing Machine
		The United States
		Great Britain and Ireland
		Europe, Asia, Africa, and Australasia
	The Diffusion of the Sewing Machine as a Consumer Good
	Diffusion and Income
	Conclusion
	Notes
	Bibliography
2. The Production Chain: Fashion, Technology, and Globalization (1800-2022)
	The Industrialization of the Chain of Production
	From the Laboratory to the Globe
	New Challenges: Freedom and Environmental, Social, and Economic Sustainability
	Conclusion
	Notes
	Bibliography
3. Visibly Invisible: The Enigmatic History of Technology in the Fashion-Industrial Complex
	The Colorful World of William Henry Perkin
	The Carte de Nuance as a Design Tool
	The Rayon Age
	Test-Tube Fibers and the Midcentury Textile Revolution
	Toward a New History of Technology and Fashion
	Notes
	Selected Bibliography
4. The Global Trade of the Wax Fabric
	Inventing a Tradition
	Industrializing a Craft Technique: From Batik to Wax Print
		Introducing Wax Print to the West African Market
		A Shared Valuable Legacy
	A Growing and Diversified Market
		The Power of the Nana Benz and the Language of the Designs
		A Precious Expertise
	The Mirror of Changing Societies
		Europe as a Reference of Quality in Independent Africa
		The Decline of Lomé Market
		New Markets, New Names
		The Issues of the Global Consumer Society
	From Fabric to Clothing
		Mission Dress, Boubou, and Wrapper
		The Rise of African Fashion Designers
		New Trends in Asian Prints
		Wax Print in the Western fashion
	Notes
	Bibliography
5. Swedish Splendor Behind the Scenes
	The Father of Couture Intermediaires
	No. 7, rue de la Paix
	Augusta Lundin and the \"French Method for Sewing\"
	The French Salon at Nordiska Kompaniet
	A Global Couture Brand
	From Paris to Västerås—A Postfordist Fashion Pioneer
	Risking Nothing at All
	Conclusion
	Notes
	Bibliography
6. Mending and Repairing
	Introduction
	Finding Evidence of Mending
	The Stigma of Repaired Clothing
	Mending in the Nineteenth Century
	Sewing Manuals, Thriftiness, and Invisible Repairs: Mending in the Early Twentieth Century
	Make Do and Mend: Clothing Repair During WWII
	Cheap Fashion and the \"Disappearance\" of Mending
	Mending in the Twenty-First Century: A Re-Emergence of Repair
	The Aesthetics of Contemporary Mending
	The Social Politics of Repair
	Designing for Repair
	Concluding Comments
	Notes
	Bibliography
Part II: The Politics of Fashion and Dress
7. National and Regional Dress
	Nineteenth-Century National and Regional Dress
	Nationalist Dress Expands into the Twentieth Century
	Transformation from Regional to Ethnic Dress: United States as an Example
	Marker of Dissonance, Political Stance, and Empowerment
	African Diaspora and Indigenous Dress as Identity
	Notes
	Bibliography
8. Between Benevolent Work and Militant Labor: Palestinian Embroidery in the Diaspora
	From Collecting to Manufacturing Embroidery
	Defining Embroidery, Claiming Heritage
	Embroidery as benevolent Work
	Embroidery as Militant Labor
	Conclusion
	Notes
	Bibliography
9. Restoring Fashion History: A Survey of 19th- and 20th-Century Black American Fashion Designers
	Introduction: An Oversimplified History
	Black Fashion before the Civil War
	Transitional Makers
	Gaining a Foothold on Seventh Avenue
	The 1980s and 1990s: Tracy Reese
	Conclusion
	Notes
	Bibliography
10. Fashion and Feminism
	Introduction
	Early Struggles: Fashion as Imprisonment and/or Emancipation
	Feminist Fashion Scholarship
	Fashion: A Feminist and Solidarian Practice?
	Conclusion
	Notes
	References
	Films
11. Fascism for Export: Fashion and Textiles in 1930s Italy
	Introduction
	The Intelligent Fibres: Between Innovation and Autarchy
	Conclusion
	Notes
	Bibliography
12. Fashion and Diplomacy
	Fashion\'s Multifaceted Influence in International Relations
	The Diplomatic Relevance of Fashion\'s Influence: The Case of Postwar France
	Operationalizing Fashion as an Instrument of Diplomatic Influence
		Fashion as Everything That Has to Do with Fashion
		Public Diplomacy: The State and Its Foreign Audience
	Conclusion
	Funding Acknowledgment
	Notes
	Bibliography
		Books
		Articles
		Chapters
		Unpublished Material
		Blogs, Newspapers and Magazines
		Official Documents
Part III: Fashion as Business
13. Fashion Forecasting, Gender, and Artificial Intelligence
	Literature Review
	The Evolution of Fashion Forecasting
	Female Entrepreneurship: The Industry
	Digitalization and Artificial Intelligence in Fashion Forecasting
	Voices of the Fashion Forecasters
	Conclusions
	Notes
	Bibliography
	Appendix 1 List of Interviewees
14. Fast Fashion: A Successful Business Model Forced to Transform
	A Successful Business Model
	Cheap Yet Attractive Fashion, Increasingly More Internet-Based
	The Location of the Supply Chains
	Inditex, the Leader of Fast Fashion
	The Social and Environmental Cost of Fast Fashion
	Conclusions
	Notes
	References
15. Bangladesh Garment Industry
	Introduction
	Inception of the Bangladesh RMG Industry
	Economic and Social Impact
	Labor Standard, Vulnerability of Workers, and Rana Plaza
	Challenges of Sustainability
		Accord-Alliance and Safety
		Squeezing Prices
		Impact of COVID-19
	Conclusion
	Notes
	References
		Books
		Articles, Chapters in Books, and Dissertations
		Newspapers and Magazines
16. Fashioning Contemporary Yoruba Cultural Identities, an Exploration of Africa Fashion Week Nigeria
	Introduction
	Overview of the Nigerian Fashion System
	Fashion Week as a Diffusion Strategy
	Nigeria: Historical and Cultural Context
	Africa Fashion Week Nigeria (AFWN)
	Narratives of Sustainability, Empowerment, and Climate Change
	Conclusion
	Notes
	Bibliography
17. Cultural Heritage, Intangible Assets, and Fashion Branding
	Introduction
	Fashion as Art
	Cultural Heritage as an Intangible Asset
	History and Brand
	Final Remarks
	Notes
	Bibliography
18. Intellectual Property Rights in the Fashion Industry, from International to Post-Colonial Contexts
	Introduction
	Innovation, Patenting, and Trademarking
	Copyrighting Fashion: High Authorship and Collective Lawsuits
	Intellectual Property Cases in Colonial Contexts
	When Designers Question Intellectual Property
	Conclusion
	Notes
	Bibliography
		The Independent
		Justia Trademarks
		Revue Juridique du Congo Belge
19. Creativity Revisited: Luxury Fashion in the Age of Social Media Activism
	Introduction
	Luxury Fashion and the Idea of Art and Craft
	The Value Maker
	Luxury Fashion Facing Media Power Activism
	Counterfeit and Creativity from a Historical Point of View
	Dethroning the Value of High Fashion
	Conclusion
	Notes
	Bibliography
		Documentary
		Film
		Websites
		YouTube
Part IV: The Body and the Self
20. Sport from Mr and Mrs Andrews Circa 1750 to Dior x Air Jordan 1
	Introduction: The Sartorial Sporting Moment
	Mr and Mrs Andrews circa 1750
	The Move to Mass Production of High-End Goods
	Conclusion
	Notes
	Bibliography
21. Mourning Dress in the West, 1800 until Today: Codification, Gender, and Global Perspectives
	The Rise of Codified Mourning Dress in the West, 1800 to 1900
	Mourning Dress for Men and the Simplification of Female Mourning Attire, 1900-1920
	The Decline of Specific Mourning Attire in the Postwar Period
	Contemporary Mourning Practices in Black American Communities: The R.I.P. Shirt
	The Gender Politics of the Color Black: \"Merry\" Widows and Sexualized Mourning
	Imperialism, Colonialism, and Globalization: Mourning Dress Outside of Western Europe and North America
	Conclusion
	Notes
	Bibliography
22. Men\'s Fashion 200822
	From Courtier to City Gent
		Managing the Body
	Dangerous Dress
		Bohemianism
	Bucks of Elegance
	Wilde Dress
	Royals, Sport, Fashion, and War
	Bubble Up
		Battling Consumerism: Punk and Grunge
		Trickling Across: Androgyny and the 1960s
	The Warhol Effect
	Notes
	Bibliography
		Objects
		Websites
23. The Attractions of Underclothes
	High Victorian and Edwardian Underwear
	La Vie Parisienne
	The Case of Underpants
	Modern Society: The Fantasy and \"Fetishism\" of Underwear
	The Iconography of the Corset Advertisement
	The Eroticism of Lingerie
	Notes
	Bibliography
		Books
		Chapters
		Periodicals
		Interviews
24. De-Gendering Fashion in Mainstream Media
	Introduction
	#DeGenderFashion
	The First Man on the Cover of US Vogue
	Role of Fashion as an Industry and as a Culture
	Conclusion
	Bio
	Notes
	Bibliography
25. Queer Style
	The Dandy and the Lionne
	The Early Twentieth Century
	After the Two World Wars
	Feminism, Sexual Liberation, and F***king with Gender
	Kinging, Voguing, and Lipsticks
	Gender Non-Conforming \"Fluid\" Style
	Notes
	Bibliography
26. Washing Clothes
	Clean and Decent
	1800s Laundry: Seldom but Rigorous
	The 1900s: Improved Technologies and an Increase in Laundry
	After 2000
	Dirt, Smell, and Bacteria
	Water, Chemicals, and Energy
	Laundering Step by Step
	Better Equipment but More Work
	Environmental Impacts of Laundry
	Microfiber and Microplastic
	Ordinary, but Culturally and Technically Complex
	Acknowledgments
	Notes
	Bibliography
27. The Cultural Economies of Secondhand Clothes
	The Birth of Thrift Stores
	The Birth of Flea Markets and the Voluntary Use of Secondhand
	Garage Sales and \"Vintage\" Clothing
	Beatniks, Hippies, and the British Invasion
	The Postwar Politics of Secondhand Dress
	The Thrifting Ethos of \"Camp\"
	Secondhand Goes Mainstream
	Conclusion
	Notes
	Bibliography
Part V: Sources for the History of Fashion and Dress
28. Discovering Today\'s Digital Resources for Researching Yesterday\'s Fashion and Costume
	Grounding Definitions
	Discovering Treasures
	Detailing Discovery\'s Path
	Locating Valuable Primary Resources
	Curating the Curated: Relevant LibGuides
	Diving More Deeply: SPARC Holdings
		A. Beller & Co. Sketches, 1914-1929
		Bergdorf Goodman Custom Salon Sketches, c.1930-1969
		Bonnie Cashin Sketch Series, 1953-1977
		Eleanor Lambert Collection, 1943-2003
		Frances Neady Collection of Original Fashion Illustrations, 1913-Current
		Halston Sketches and Photographs, c.1964 and 1980-1989
		Helena Rubinstein Collection, 1953-2011
		Jamel Shabazz Photographs, 1980-2010
		Lucile Ltd., Lady Duff Gordon Collection, 1910-c.1925
		Ruth Finley Collection, 1945-2016
		Stephen Burrows Collection, 1969-2012
	Concluding Remarks
	Notes
	Bibliography
Index