The Palgrave Handbook of Fashion and Politics

Preface
Acknowledgments
Contents
	Notes on Contributors
List of Figures
List of Tables
1 Introduction to Handbook
	1.1 Introduction
	1.2 Constructing Gender, Power, and Politics through Fashion
		1.2.1 Definitions
		1.2.2 Fashion and Social Movement Activism
		1.2.3 The Fashion Police
		1.2.4 Professional Attire
	1.3 Plan for the Book
	References
2 Section One Introduction: Using Fashion to Establish Credibility—Looking the Part—Comparative Perspective
	References
3 Performing Dress on Political Campaign Trails: The Case of Raila and Ruto in Kenya
	3.1 Background
		3.1.1 Dress as a Material Culture
		3.1.2 Dress and Religion: From Kenya’s Perspective
		3.1.3 The Margins of Dress and Politics in Kenya
	3.2 Raila’s Air Jordan Sneakers: A Politically Situated Appeal to the Youth Subculture
	3.3 Dress as a Political Performance
		3.3.1 Piety or Politics: Ruto’s Religious Dress
	3.4 Conclusion
	References
4 The Dictator Wears New Clothes: Authoritarian Home Style in Action
	4.1 Introduction
	4.2 Authoritarian Home Style
	4.3 Historical Discussion of Authoritarian Fashion
	4.4 Modern Examples of Fashion as Control
		4.4.1 Turkmenistan
		4.4.2 Ethiopia
	4.5 Conclusion
	References
5 Merkel’s Non-fashion
	5.1 Introduction
	5.2 Political Representation and Clothing
	5.3 Fashion
	5.4 Understanding Body Symbolism in Political Representation
	5.5 Neutralizing the Body: Non-fashion as a Performative Instrument
	5.6 Creating Non-fashion as a Statement: The Three Phases of Angela Merkel’s Style
	5.7 Conclusion: From the Body to the Logo
	References
6 Gender, Fashion, Politics and the Left-Right Divide in Spain
	6.1 Introduction
	6.2 Gender, Fashion and Politics
	6.3 Spain as a Case to Study Gender, Fashion and Politics
	6.4 The Presentation Photographs of Spanish Cabinets
	6.5 Women Ministers’ Participation in March 8th Demonstrations
	6.6 Women Ministers in 2004 Vogue (Spain)
	6.7 The 2022 Polemic Around the Tie
	6.8 Conclusion
	References
7 Section Two Introduction: Using Fashion to Establish Credibility: Looking the Part—United States
8 Power Dressing: Dress Codes in State Legislatures
	8.1 Introduction
	8.2 The Dress Codes of State Legislative Chambers
		8.2.1 Our Data
		8.2.2 The Frequency of State Legislative Dress Codes
		8.2.3 Content of the Dress Codes
	8.3 What These Dress Codes Tell Us
		8.3.1 “Business Attire”
		8.3.2 Gendered Terms
		8.3.3 Cultural Attire
	8.4 Conclusions
	References
9 Who Wears the Pants? Fashioning Politics on Capitol Hill
	References
10 Looks on Trial: Fashion and the Double-bind among Female Supreme Court Justices
	10.1 Introduction
	10.2 The Double-Bind for Women in Law
	10.3 Fashion in the U.S. Supreme Court
	10.4 Conservative Approaches to Fashion: Justices O’Connor and Barrett
		10.4.1 Sandra Day O’Connor: Setting Precedent Through Fashion
		10.4.2 Amy Coney Barrett: A Return to the Feminine Ideal
	10.5 Liberal Approaches to Fashion: Justices Sotomayor, Kagan, and Jackson
		10.5.1 Sonia Sotomayor: Defying Fashion Advice
		10.5.2 Elena Kagan’s Rejection of Morning Jackets as Solicitor General
		10.5.3 Ketanji Brown Jackson’s Middle-of-the-Road Approach
	10.6 Ruth Bader Ginsburg: When Fashion Meets Substance
	10.7 Conclusion
	References
11 Michelle Obama and the Strategic Deployment of Fashion
	11.1 Introduction
	11.2 Understanding Michelle Obama’s Fashion Choices: Theoretical Framework, Political Context, and Past Research
		11.2.1 Theoretical Frameworks
		11.2.2 First Ladies as Symbols of White, Middle-to-Upper Class, Femininity and Domesticity
		11.2.3 Political Context
	11.3 Research Methods: A Thematic Analysis of Fashion Magazines, Celebrity Magazines, and National News Outlets
		11.3.1 Theme 1: Obama Embraced Authenticity and Self-Empowerment
		11.3.2 Theme 2: Media Stories Highlight Obama’s Refusal to Choose Between Power and Femininity
		11.3.3 Theme 3: Obama Selected Clothing to Connect with People from All Walks of Life
		11.3.4 Theme 4: Obama Selected Designers to Create Opportunities for the Marginalized
		11.3.5 Theme 5: The Media (Rightly) Viewed Obama’s Fashion Choices as Inherently Political
	11.4 Becoming a National Icon: Evidence of Influence
	11.5 An Important Caveat: Becoming a Fashion Icon Did Not Protect Obama from Criticism
	11.6 Conclusion
	References
12 First Ladies and Fashion Double Binds
	12.1 Introduction
	12.2 Literature Review
		12.2.1 First Ladies and Double Binds
	12.3 Method
	12.4 Analysis
		12.4.1 Trump “I Don’t Really Care” Jacket (June 21, 2018)
		12.4.2 Trump’s Military Jacket (August 26, 2020)
		12.4.3 Biden’s “Fishnet” Tights (April 1, 2021)
		12.4.4 Biden’s “Love” Jacket (June 10, 2021)
	12.5 Conclusion
	References
13 Section Three Introduction: Women and Minoritized Bodies as Threats
14 The Symbolic Politics of Fashion: Using State Power to (ad)dress Threats
	14.1 Introduction
	14.2 Edelman’s Symbolic Uses of Politics
	14.3 Addressing Threats: The Fashion Police
		14.3.1 Cross-Dressing and Masquerade Bans
		14.3.2 Swimsuits and Headscarves
		14.3.3 Public School Dress Codes and Uniforms
	14.4 Conclusion
	References
15 Sizeable Burdens: The Effects of Weight Stigma on Political Candidates
	15.1 Introduction
	15.2 Fat Stigma in Society
	15.3 Fashion as Signifier
	15.4 Assessing Political Candidates’ Appearance
	15.5 Implications for Fat Candidates
	15.6 Conclusion
	References
16 By the Looks of Her She Is Not Credible: Sanna Marin and Fashion’s Influence on Credibility
	16.1 Introduction
	16.2 Literature Review: Credibility, Fashion, and New Politics
	16.3 Least Likely Case Analysis of Finland’s Former Prime Minister Sanna Marin
		16.3.1 Finnish Case
		16.3.2 Method
	16.4 Case Analysis
		16.4.1 Blazer Ensemble and the Trendi Cover
		16.4.2 Leather Biker Jacket in Sweden and at a Musical Festival
		16.4.3 Body Armor in Ukraine
	16.5 Conclusion
	References
17 “Eh eh eh My Lord, Looking Dapper”: Rebranding the Speakership and Women’s Political Leadership in Uganda?
	17.1 Introduction
	17.2 Ugandan Case
	17.3 Gender Regime Theory and Fashion
	17.4 Methodology
	17.5 Analysis of Anita Annet Among
	17.6 Conclusion
	References
18 Traditional Attire and Political Statement: A Case Study of Indonesia’s First Female Speaker
	18.1 Introduction
	18.2 The Politics of Fashion
		18.2.1 Case Study: Indonesia
		18.2.2 Traditional Attire
	18.3 Puan Maharani and Minangkabau
		18.3.1 Political Statement
		18.3.2 Suits vs. Dress
	18.4 Conclusions
	References
19 Section Four Introduction: Wearing Identity
20 First Lady Fashion in Pakistan: Bushra Bibi’s Transcendental Style
	20.1 Introduction
	20.2 Anti-Colonial Nationalism and Fashioning Women in Politics in South Asia
	20.3 Bushra Bibi, Fashion Agency, and Transcendental Representation
	20.4 Conclusion
	References
21 The Political Importance of Fraternal Fashion
	21.1 Introduction
	21.2 Inside the Lodge: Building a Fraternal Family
	21.3 Outside the Lodge: Social Capital in Action
		21.3.1 Lapel Pins, Badges, and Jewels
		21.3.2 Fraternal Fashion in Action: Parades and Memorial Days
	21.4 Policy Making and Fraternal Fashion
		21.4.1 The Lodge-Lobbying Connection
		21.4.2 Legislation Protecting Fraternal Fashion
		21.4.3 Legislation Restricting Fraternal Fashion
	21.5 Conclusion
	References
22 Tactical Is the New Black: Examining Gun Owner Fashion as Political Expression
	22.1 Introduction
	22.2 Gun Culture
	22.3 Fashion as Politics
	22.4 Group Identity and Allegiance in Dress
	22.5 Data Collection
	22.6 Content Analysis
	22.7 Analysis
		22.7.1 Increase in Polymer Rifles
		22.7.2 Increase in Tactical Wear
		22.7.3 Decline in Concealed Carry
		22.7.4 Other Trends: Gender & Racial Diversity
	22.8 Conclusion
	References
23 Flying the Coup: American Flag Apparel and the January 6th Insurrection
	23.1 Introduction
	23.2 Political Flag Culture
	23.3 History of the Flag as Apparel
	23.4 The Flag, White-Supremacy, and Trump
	23.5 “It’s 1776, Baby!”: Re-founding America on January 6th
	23.6 Alternative Histories
	23.7 Conclusion
	References
24 Echoes of War: Body Armor for Safety and Fashion
	24.1 Introduction
	24.2 The Modern Origins of Body Armor in the United States
		24.2.1 From the Military to Law Enforcement
	24.3 The Slow Diffusion of Body Armor into Non-occupational Settings
		24.3.1 Body Armor for Safety, Style, and Political Activism
		24.3.2 Body Armor for Fitness and Aggression
	24.4 Conclusion
	References
25 Section Five Introduction: Fashion as Symbol and Critique
26 Activism Through Fashion: State Repression and the Politics of Fashion in Biafra Southeast Nigeria
	26.1 Introduction
	26.2 Research Methods
	26.3 The Nigeria-Biafra War and its Resurgence in Contemporary Nigeria
	26.4 Fashion and the Cultural Economy of Neo-Biafra Nationalism
	26.5 Dressing and Policing Dissent: A Case Study of Chiwetalu Agu and Idara Gold
	26.6 The Resurgence of Biafra Protest Fashion in Southeast Nigeria and the Causative Factors
	26.7 Conclusion
	References
27 Frida Kahlo’s “Tehuana” Attire: Ethnic Dress as Feminist Self-Branding
	27.1 Introduction
	27.2 Artists and Branding
	27.3 The Tehuana Dress or Traje de Tehuana
	27.4 The Man’s Suit
	27.5 Conclusion
	References
28 From Cover to Kaba: A History of Women’s Fashion in Cameroon
	28.1 Introduction
	28.2 Context
	28.3 Methodology
	28.4 Results
		28.4.1 The Kaba as a Controlling Tool for Women’s Bodies
		28.4.2 The Kaba: A Tool for Appropriating European Culture
		28.4.3 The Kaba: A Rallying Tool for Women
		28.4.4 The Association Between the Kaba and the Fabric
		28.4.5 The Kaba: A Symbol of New Freedom for Women
	28.5 Analysis and Interpretation of the Results: Has the Kaba Become the Symbol of Freedom for Cameroonian Women?
		28.5.1 From a Colonial Dress to an Assimilation Dress: The Kaba as a Bridge Between Many Worlds
		28.5.2 The Kaba Element of Women’s Coquetry
		28.5.3 The Kaba as a Link Between Women’s Generations
	28.6 Conclusion
	References
29 (White) Boys in White Dresses: Racial Capitalism and the Limits of Gender-Disruptive Fashion
	29.1 Introduction
	29.2 Feminine Boys, Femboys, and the Linear Narrative of Progress
	29.3 Racial Capitalism, Liberalism, and Self-Fashioning
	29.4 White Boys in White Dresses: Harry Styles and Exceptional Singularity
	29.5 Queer-of-Color Alternatives Beyond “Individuality”
	29.6 Conclusion
	References
30 Querying Radically Queer Political Fashion
	30.1 Introduction
	30.2 Fashion, Concepts, and Theory
	30.3 Androgyny Within the Fashion Industry
	30.4 Androgynous Fashion and Its Political Uses
	30.5 Concluding Remarks: Is Fashion Hacking the Future?
	References
31 The Symbolic Politics of Police and Military: Threat and Reassurance in Uniform
	31.1 Introduction
	31.2 Edelman and Police and Military
	31.3 Background
	31.4 The Symbolic Power of Uniforms
	31.5 Women in Uniform
	31.6 Race and the Symbolism of Uniforms
	31.7 Conclusion
	References
32 Conclusion
	References
Index