Textbook of footwear manufacture

CONTENTS
PAGE
FORWARD v
GENERAL INTRODUCTION vii
PART I. SHOE DESIGN: ITS BASIS AND
DEVELOPMENT
J. H. Thornton, M.A., F.B.S.I.
INTRODUCTION 3
The Basis of Design
1. THE PURPOSE OF SHOES 5
2. SHOE MATERIALS 8
3. METHODS OF SHOE CONSTRUCTION 20
The SandalThe MoccasinThe Shoe
4. FASHION 34
PART II.
PATTERN CUTTING
A. V. Goodfellow, A.B.S.I.
5. LASTS 57
Sizes and FittingsLast Specification.
6. PRACTICAL INSTRUCTION 63
7. GENERAL 80
PART III. CLICKING
A. V. Goodfellow, A.B.S.I.
INTRODUCTION 107
8. MATERIALS 108
ix
ToolsMarking the LastThe Insole PatternThe Sole
PatternThe Slotted FormeMen’s Shoe Standards and
SectionsLadies’ Shoe Standards and SectionsGrading.
DesignLastsForme CuttingStandardsSection PatternsPat
tern AllowancesSpring in PatternsProving New StylesPattern
StandardisationCastor ShapesPrinciples of GradingGrading
MachinesPattern MakingStitch MarkingPattern Storage.
ClassificationCharacteristics of Shoe LeathersFabrics
Synthetics.
Upper AppearanceSole ShapeSole HeightHeel Height
and ShapeFastening.
9. CLICKING TECHNIQUE 117
10. MANAGEMENT 134
PART IV. CLOSING
L. W. Elliot, A.B.S.I.
INTRODUCTION 149
11. PREPARATION 150
12. STITCHING AND PROCESSES 166
13. MANAGEMENT 202
PART V. BOTTOM STOCK
G. B. Agutter, A.B.S.I.
14. CUTTING BOTTOM STOCK 213
15. PREPARATION OF SOLES AND INSOLES 225
16. LIFTS, WELTS AND HEELS 239
17. MANAGEMENT 246
PART VI. MAKING
W. Moore, A.B.S.I.
18. HAND LASTING (By G. Lewin) 255
19. HAND WELTING (By F. Bending) 260
20. MACHINELASTING FOR WELTED WORK 270
x
CONTENTS
Cutting FabricsVariations in LeatherCutting LeatherPress
Clicking
Upper CostingLeather BuyingThe Leather StoreLeather
SortingQuality ControlOrganisation
Opening or CheckingIdentification MarkingSkiving
Perforating and GimpingEdge TreatmentsBacking or
SeamsStitching Threads used in the Closing Department
NeedlesStitch FormationsTypes of Stitching Machines used in
the Closing DepartmentSequence of Operations.
Lay-out and Planning of a Closing DepartmentControl of
Quality and QuantityTraining of Labourmethods of dealing
with Samples, Specials and RepairsThe Purchase, Storage and
Recording of Use of Findings and GrinderyMachine
The PressInsole CuttingSole CuttingCutting other Sections.
Departmental Lay-outGood Pressmanship.
Preparing the Upper for the LastLasting.
21. THE GOODYEAR WELTED METHOD 289
22. THE MACHINE-SEWN METHOD 325
23. METALLIC METHODS OF ATTACHMENT 340
23. THE CEMENTED METHOD 348
25. VELDTSCHOEN, TURNSHOE AND LITTLEWAY METHODS 361
26. MANAGEMENT 376
PART VII. FINISHING
J. Harris, A.B.S.I.
INTRODUCTION 383
27. HEEL ATTACHING 385
Methods of Attaching HeelsSlugging.
28. HEEL TREATMENT 392
Heel BreastingHeel TrimmingHeel Scouring.
29. EDGE TREATMENT 401
30. BOTTOM TREATMENT 419
31. LOUIS HEELS 431
32. MANAGEMENT 438
PART VIII. SHOE ROOM
E. J. Clarke, A.B.S.I.
INTRODUCTION 445
33. EXAMINATION AND PRELIMINARY OPERATIONS 447
ExaminationSole Stamping and EmbossingSocking.
34. UPPER CLEANING, IRONING AND DRESSING 454
Upper CleaningIroning or Hot BlastDressing
xi
CONTENTS
Sewing in the WeltAttaching the SoleVariations in the Welted
Method.
LastingAttaching the Sole.
AdhesivesSingle Sole Cemented ShoeVariations of the Single
Sole Cemented Shoe.
Edge TrimmingPutting into ColourHeel BurnishingSeat
WheelingEdge SettingEdge Polishing or Brushing.
Bottom ScouringBottom MakingTop Ironing and Side
IroningTaking-offBrushing-offLast Slipping.
IntroductionInsole PreparationPreparation of the Sole
HeelingFinishingConclusions.
35. OTHER OPERATIONS 469
36. FINAL INSPECTION, PACKING AND DISPATCH 472
37. MANAGEMENT 480
PART IX. SLIPPER MANUFACTURE
J. W. Johnson, F.B.S.I.
INTRODUCTION 485
38. THE ‘DOWIE’ SLIPPER 487
39. SLIP-LASTED SLIPPERS 496
40. SLIPPER TURNSHOES AND INDOOR TURNS 503
41. VELDTSCHOEN, WELDED AND MACHINE-SEWN SLIPPERS 514
42. MOCCASIN SLIPPERS 523
43. SHEARLING AND WOOL SHEEPSKIN SLIPPERS 535
BIBLIOGRAPHY 539
INDEX 543
INDEX TO ADVERTISERS 582