Stitching La Mode: Patterns and Dressmaking from Fashion Plates of 1785-1795

Cover
Half Title
Title Page
Copyright Page
Dedication
Table of Contents
Acknowledgements
Chapter 1 Introduction
Section 1 Historical Context and How-To’s
	Chapter 2 Fashion, Fashion Plates and Dressmaking, 1785–1795
		Fashion
		Fashion Plates
		Dressmaking
		Bibliography
	Chapter 3 Enlarging and Altering the Patterns
		Copy Shop
		Home Computer
			Step 1
			Step 2
			Step 3
			Step 4
			Step 5
		Enlarging By Hand With a Grid
			Step 1
			Step 2
			Step 3
		Altering the Patterns
		Pattern Measurements
		Taking Your Own Measurements
		Using the Measurements
		Pattern Alteration Methods
	Chapter 4 Master Sewing Instructions
		Master Set of Sewing Stitches
			Running Stitch
			Backstitch
			Hem Stitch
			Whip Stitch
			Slip Stitch
			Locked Running Stitch
			Pricked Backstitch
		Master Instructions for Seams, Hems and Gathers
			Seams
				Plain Seam, Right Sides Together
				Lapped Seam
				Mantuamaker’s Seam
				“English Stitch” Seam
				Whipped Seam
			Hems
				Rolled Hem
				Faced Hem
				Bound Hem/Edges
			Gathering Methods
				Basted Gathering
				Stroke Gathering
				Whip Gathering
				Whip Gathering Measured Sections
		Master Instructions for Garment Sewing
			1780s Basic Bodice
				Butted Seams Variation
				Lapped Seam Method
			Additional Options
				Butted Centre Back Seam
				Boned Centre Back Seam
				Drawstring Neckline On a Fitted Bodice
				Clean-Finished Armholes
				Basic Petticoat
		1780s Open Front Gown Skirt
			Step 1
			Step 2
			Step 3
			Step 4
			Step 4.1a
			Step 4.1b
			Step 4.2a
			Step 4.2b
			Step 4.2c
			Step 4.2d
			Step 4.2e
			Step 4.3a
			Step 4.3b
			Step 4.3c
			Step 5 (Optional)
		Drop-Front Or Apron-Front Gown Skirt
			Step 1
			Step 2
			Step 3
			Step 4
			Step 5
			Step 6
		Sleeves
			Lined One-Piece Sleeve
				Step 1
				Step 2
				Step 3
				Step 4
				Step 5
				Step 6
				Step 7
			Two-Piece Sleeve
				Step 1
				Step 2
				Step 3
				Step 4
				Step 5
			Unlined One-Piece Sleeve
				Step 1
				Step 2
				Step 3
				Step 4
				Step 5
				Step 6
		Cutaway Bodice Front
			Combined Layers
				Step 1
				Step 2
				Step 3
				Step 4
				Step 5
				Step 6
			Separate Layers
				Step 4
				Step 5
				Step 6
				Step 7
			Additional Variation
		“En Fourreau” Gown
			Pleated Variation
				Step 1
				Step 2
				Step 3
				Step 4
				Step 5
				Step 6
				Step 7
				Step 8
				Step 9
				Step 10
				Step 11
				Step 12
				Step 13
				Step 14
				Step 15
				Step 16
				Step 17
				Step 18
				Step 19
				Step 20
				Step 21
				Step 22
				Step 23
				Step 24
				Step 25 (Optional)
			Seamed Variation
				Step 1
				Step 2
				Step 3
				Step 4
				Step 5
				Step 6
				Step 7
				Step 8
				Step 9
				Step 10
				Step 11
		Chemise Gown
			Step 1
			Step 2
			Step 3
			Step 4
			Step 5
			Step 6
			Step 7
			Step 8
			Step 9
			Step 10
			Step 11
			Step 12
			Step 13
			Step 13.1a (Optional)
			Step 13.1b
			Step 14
			Step 15
			Step 16
			Step 17
			Step 18
			Step 19
			Step 20
		Standing Collar
			Bound Edges
				Step 1
				Step 2
				Step 3
				Step 4
				Step 5
				Step 6
				Step 7
				Step 8
			Sewn Edges
				Step 1
				Step 2
				Step 3
				Step 4
				Step 5
				Step 6
				Step 7
		Shoulder Capes
			Unlined Shoulder Cape
				Step 1
				Step 2
				Step 2.1
				Step 3
				Step 4
				Step 4.1a
				Step 4.1b
				Step 4.1c
				Step 4.1d
			Lined Shoulder Cape
				Step 1
				Step 2
				Step 3
				Step 4
				Step 4.1
				Step 5
		Buttons, Buttonholes, Eyelets
			Covered Button
				Step 1
				Step 2
				Step 3
				Step 4
			Dorset Button
				Step 1
				Step 2
				Step 3
				Step 4
				Step 5
			Hand-Bound Buttonhole
				Step 1
				Step 2
				Step 3
				Step 4
			Hand-Worked Eyelet
				Step 1
				Step 2
		Bows
			Two-Loop Bow
				Step 1
				Step 2
				Step 3
				Step 4
			Four-Loop Bow From One Length of Ribbon
				Step 1
				Step 2
				Step 3
				Step 4
				Step 5
			Knotted Four-Loop Bow
				Step 1
				Step 2
				Step 3
				Step 4
Section 2 Fashion Plate Patterns and Recreations
	Chapter 5 1785 Caraco Jacket and Petticoat
		Description
			Materials Used
		Construction Steps for 1786 Jacket and Petticoat
			Petticoat
			Jacket
			Apron
	Chapter 6 1786 Robe À La Turque and Petticoat
		Description
			Materials Used
		Construction Steps for 1786 Gown and Petticoat
			Petticoat
			Gown
			Pleated Neckline Ruffle
			Belt
	Chapter 7 1787 Robe À L’Anglaise and Petticoat
		Description
			Materials Used
		Construction Steps for 1787 Gown and Petticoat
			Petticoat
			Gown
			Alternate Sleeve Style
	Chapter 8 1788 Robe À L’Anglaise and Petticoat
		Description
			Materials Used
		Construction Steps for 1788 Gown and Petticoat
			Petticoat
			Gown
			Waist Sash
			Neckline Ruffle
	Chapter 9 1789 Chemise-Caraco Variation
		Description
			Materials Used
		Construction Steps for 1789 Chemise-Caraco
			Gown
			Sleeve Cuffs
			Collar
			Looped Peplum and Bow
			Ruffled Handkerchief/Chemisette
	Chapter 10 1790 Chemise Gown
		Description/Interpretation
			Materials Used
		Construction Steps for 1790 Gown
			Gown
			Sash
	Chapter 11 1790 Jacket and Petticoat
		Description/Interpretation
			Materials Used
		Construction Steps for 1790 Pierrot Jacket and Petticoat
			Petticoat
			Jacket
			Sash/Belt
			Neckline Ruffle
	Chapter 12 1791 Lévite Gown and Petticoat
		Description/Interpretation
			Materials Used
		Construction Steps for 1791 Lévite Gown and Petticoat
			Petticoat
			Lévite Gown
			Sash
	Chapter 13 1792 Robe À L’Anglaise and Petticoat
		Description
			Materials Used
		Construction Steps for 1792 Gown and Petticoat
			Petticoat
			Gown
	Chapter 14 1793 Chemise Gown Variation and Petticoat
		Description
			Materials Used
		Construction Steps for 1793 Gown and Petticoat
			Petticoat
			Gown
	Chapter 15 1794 Open-Front Round Gown
		Description
			Materials Used
		Construction Steps for 1794 Gown
			Gown
	Chapter 16 1794 Drop-Front Round Gown and Open Robe
		Description
			Materials Used
		Construction Steps for 1794 Round Gown and Open Robe
			Gown
			Open Robe
			Gown
			Open Robe
			Ruffled Handkerchief
			Sash
	Chapter 17 1795 Riding Habit
		Description
			Materials Used
		Construction Steps for 1795 Riding Habit
			Sleeveless Shirt (Chemisette)
			Petticoat
			Waistcoat
			Jacket
			Neck Stock
Index