Skilled Immigrants in the Textile and Fashion Industries: Stories from a Globe-Spanning History

Cover
Halftitle page
Copyright page
Title page
Contents
Illustrations
Plates
Contributors
Preface
Acknowledgments
Part One Introduction
	Introduction NAZANIN HEDAYAT MUNROE
		New Perspectives in Global Textile and Fashion Studies
		Immigrant Groups Presented in the Volume
		Notes
	1 A Brief History of Textile Production and Trade NAZANIN HEDAYAT MUNROE
		Notes
Part Two Imported Myths, Imported Moths: Silk Production Across Asia
	2 Histories of Silken Skills: Immigrant Sericulturalists in Early Modern South Asia SYLVIA HOUGHTELING
		Histories of Sericulture in South Asia
		Thomas Pitt and Kiswarsingh Siddavatam Raja: A Correspondence about Sericulture (and Spoons)
		The Skilled Work of Rearing Silkworms
		Conclusion: Tipu Sultan and Sericulture in Mysore
		Notes
	3 Prophets and Caterpillars: The Story of Job and the Social Mobility of Silk Workers and Weavers in the Early Modern Islamic World NADER SAYADI
		Introduction
		Weavers and Textile Workers in Islamic Societies
		The Risāli-yi sha ʿrbāfī and the Social Mobility of Silk Weavers
		Prophet Job, Caterpillars, and the Mulberry Tree: The Risāli-yi sha ʿrbāfī
		The Global Connections
		Fiction, Non-fiction, and all In Between: Job, Silk, and Social Change
		Acknowledgments
		Notes
	Appendix to Chapter 3: The Origin Stories of Silk and the Abrahamic Prophet Job
		Origin Stories of Silk in Asia
		The Origin Story of Silk and Prophet Job
		Job and the Miraculous Pond: Pre-Islamic and Islamic Narratives
		Job and Worms: The Qisas al-Anbīyaʾ Literature
		Notes
Part Three Imported Skills: Weaving Specialists Go Global
	4 Master Craftsmen in Migration: Safavid Silk Weavers in Mughal India NAZANIN HEDAYAT MUNROE
		Figural Silks from Safavid Looms
		Iranians in India: Mysticism and Migration
		Provenance Explored Through Methods, Materials and Iconography
		Conclusion
		Notes
	5 Weaving Andean Textiles on Islamic Looms: The Importation of Skilled Weavers in the Colonial Andes MARIA MADISON SMITH
		Muslims and Race in the Hispanic World
		A Brief History of the Obraje de Chincheros
		Weaving at the Obraje de Chincheros
		Treadle Looms at the ODC
		Conclusion
		Notes
	Appendix to Chapter 5: A Brief History of the Loom
		Backstrap Looms
		Warp-weighted Looms
		Drawlooms
		Handloom
		Notes
Part Four Imported Labor: Enslaved and Immigrant Workers in America
	6 Clothing the Black Body in Slavery: Stolen Lives and Imported Labor WANETT CLYDE
		Recollections of Enslaved Individuals
		Enslaved Individuals in Historical Sources
		From Textile Production on the Plantation to the Flight for Freedom
		Skills Contributed, Acquired, Borrowed and Stolen
		Conclusion
		Notes
	7 How the Other Half Works: Perceptions and Realities of Immigrant Labor in the New York Apparel Industry NAZANIN HEDAYAT MUNROE
		Garment Production, Technology and Wage Slavery
		Immigrants in Print: Waves of Immigrants, Waves of Problems
		Immigrants, Labor and Social Reform
		Immigrant Laborers in Literature
		Conclusion
		Notes
Part Five Imported Culture: Textile as Tradition in the Diaspora
	8 Silk Weaving in the Cambodian Refugee Crisis and Diaspora: Displaced Practice and Identities in the Post-Khmer Rouge Era MAGALI AN BERTHON
		Short History of the Khmer Rouge, Democratic Kampuchea and Refugee Crisis
		In Refugee Camps: Weaving Practice in Displacement
		The Meaning of Weaving in the United States
		Textiles as Cultural, Emotional and Tactile Connectors
		Performing Weaving in the Community
		Conclusion
		Acknowledgments
		Notes
	9 The Evolution of an Identity: Tracing the Trajectory of Sindhi Ajrak across the India–Pakistan Border PRAGYA SHARMA
		The Craft: Motifs, Use, Geography and Gender
		Where I Stand: Ajrak in India
		Shifting Markets: From Tradition to Fashion
		Three Hundred Kilometers away, on the Other Side: Ajrak in Pakistan
		Moving Forward, Moving Alongside
		Acknowledgments
		Notes
	Conclusion NAZANIN HEDAYAT MUNROE
Glossary
References
Index
Plates