Rheological Properties of Cosmetics and Toiletries

Cover
Half Title
Title Page
Copyright Page
About the Series
Preface
Contents
Contributors
1. The Flow of Cosmetics and Toiletries
	Bibliography
2. Introduction to Rheology
	What is Rheology?
	Flow Curves
	Non-Newtonian Behavior
	Thixotropy and Recovery-The Effect of Time
	The Effect of Temperature
	Flow Models
	Kinematic Properties
	Dynamic Properties
	Normal Forces
	Other Forces
	Solution Properties
	References
3. Instrumentation
	Rheological Measurements
	Bubble and Cup Viscometers
	Falling-Ball/Falling-Rod Viscometers
	Capillary Viscometers
	Rotational Rheometers
		Concentric-Cylinder Rheometers
		Cone-and-Plate and Parallel-Plate Rheometers
		Special Design Geometries
	Dynamic Rheometers
		Oscillatory Rheometers
		Oscillating-Rod /Torsional Analyzers
	Controlled-Stress Rheometers
	Extensional-Flow Rheometers
	Choosing A Rheometer
	Commercial Rheometers
	References
4. Rheological Additives
	I. Introduction
	II. Classification of Rheological Additives
	III. Natural Polymers
		A. Polysaccharide Chemistry
		B. Plant Origin Natural Polymers
			1 . Tree/ Shrub Exudates
			2. Seed Extracts
			3. Seaweed Extracts
		C. Microbial
			1. Xanthan Gum
	IV. Modified Naturals
		A. Cellulose Ethers
			1. Cellulose Gum
			2. Hydroxyethylcellulose
			3. Hydrophobically Modfled Cellulosics
			4. Methylcellulose Derivatives
			5. Hydroxypropylcellulose
		B. Guar Based
			1. Hydroxypropyl Guar
	V. Synthetics
		A. Acrylic Acid Polymers
			1. Carborner
			2. Acrylates/VA Crosspolymer
			3. Acrylates\\C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolyrner
			4. Acrylates/Acrylonitrogen Copolymer
			5. Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer
			6. Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, and Laureth-7
		B. Alkylene / Alkylene Oxide Polymers
			1 . Polyethylene and Copolymers
			2. Alkylene Oxide Polymers and Esters
		C. Miscellaneous
			1. PVM I MA Decadiene Crosspolymer
			2. Polyol Alkoxy Ester (CFTA Name Pending)
			3. Trihydroxystearin (Figure 42)
	VI. Inorganics
		A. Smectite Clays
			1. Hydrophilic Clays
			2. Organoclays
		B. Amorphous Silicon Dioxide
			1. Hydrated Silica
			2. Silica
		C. AluminumlMagnesium Hydroxide Stearate
	VII. Supplier Directory
	References
		General References
5. Nail Product Rheology
	I. Introduction
	II. Product Types
	III. Nail Polish
		A. Nail Polish Esthetics
	IV. Nail Polish Ingredients
		A. Lacquer
			Primary Film Former
			Secondary Film Former
			Solvents
			Plasticizers
			Other Additives
		B. Suspension Systems
		C. Colorants
		D. Nacreous Pigments
			Natural Pearl Essence
			Bismuth Oxychloride
			Titanated Mica
		E. Special Additives
	V. Flow Difference And Considerations
	VI. Nitrocellulose
		A. Chemistry
			Degree of Substitution
			Degree of Polymerization
			Wetting Agents
	VII. Rheological Control Systems
	VIII. Rheology and Testing
		A. Viscosity Testing
		B. Stability Testing
	IX. Processing as it Apfects Flow
	X. Nail Polish Packaging
		A. Package Types
		B. Specialty Packages
	XI. Specialty Nail Polish Products
		A. Basecoats
		B. Topcoats
		C. One-Coat Polish
		D. Automatic Nail ColorINail Polish Pens
	XII. Nail Polish Removers
		A. Description
		B. Ingredients
		C. Rheology
	XIII. Cuticle Removers and Softeners
		A. Description
		B. Formulation
		C. Rheology
	References
6. Antiperspirant/Deodorant Rheology
	I. Introduction
	II. Structure of Chapter
	III. Rheological History of Antiperspirants/Deodorants
	IV. Roll-ons
		A. Flow Considerations
		B. Aqueous Roll-ons
			Composition
			Rheological Systerms
		C. Suspension Roll-ons
			Composition
			Rheological System
	V. Sticks
		A. Flow Considerations
		B. Antiperspirant Suspension Sticks
			Composition
			Rheological Systems
		C. Deodorant Sticks
			Composition
			Rheological System
	VI. Aerosols
		A. Flow Considerations
		B. Antiperspirant Aerosol Cans
			Composition
			Rheolog ical Systems
		C. Deodorant Aerosol Cans
			Composition/Rheological Systems
		D. Antiperspirant and Deodorant Pumps
			Composition/Rheologlcal Systems
		E. Future Aerosol Considerations
	VII. Other Product Forms
	VIII. General Factors Affecting Flow Properties
		A. Formulation Components
			Particle Size of the Active
			Substitution of Activated Salts
			Fragrances
		B. Processing Factors
			Dispersion of Rheological Additives
			Laminar Flow
			Emulsification/Homogenization
			Critical Heating/Cooling Stages
	IX. Rheological/Stability Testing
	X. Conclusion
	References
7. Dentifrice Rheology
	I. Dentifrice Function and Composition
	II. Rheology-Dependent Dentifrice Characteristics
	III. Types of Dentifrice Formulations
	IV. Building Rheological Features Into A Dentifrice
		A. Important Rheological Terms Defined
		B. Type 1 Versus Type 2
		C. Building a Toothpaste
	V. Toothpaste Polymers
	VI. Dentifrice Manufacture
	VII. Measurement of Rheological Parameters
	VIII. Dentifrice Stability
	References
8. The Rheology of Hair Products
	I. Polymer Gels
	II. Hair Gels
		A. Hair Setting Mechanisms
		B. Ingredients
			The Gelling Agent
			Hair Fixative Polymers for Gels
			Ultraviolet Screen
			Chelating Agents
		C. Formulation
	III. Hairsprays
		A. Rheological Requirements of Hairsprays
			Rayleigh Instability-The Fundamental Origin of Spray Characteristics
		B. Extensional Viscosity
		C. Polymer Solutions
		D. Spreading of Hairspray Solutions on Hair
			Laplace Pressure
			Glass Transition Temperature
		E. Testing a Hair Fixative Resin
			Film Clarity
			Curl Retention Measurement
	IV. Shampoos and Conditioners
		A. Micelle Formation
		B. The Rheology of Liquid Crystalline Phases
		C. Polymer / Surfactant Interaction
		D. Factors Which Influence the Binding of Surfactants to Nonionic Water-Soluble Polymers
			The Polymer
			The Eflect of Surfactant Alkyl Chain Length
			Polyelectrolytes and Ionic Surfactants of Opposite Charge
			The Effect of Salt on Cationic-Anionic Complexes
			Viscosity
		E. Associative Thickeners
		F. The Rheological Properties of Antidandruff
		G. Practical Routes to Stable Dispersions
	References
9. Emulsion Rheology: Creams and Lotions
	I. Introduction
	II. Product Types
		A. Composition and Structure
			Two-Phase Emulsions
			Multiple-Phase Emulsions
			Microemulsions
		B. Flow Characteristics
	III. Measurement Types and Their Application
		A. Single-Point Versus Multipoint
		B. Controlled-Strain Versus Controlled-Stress Measurement
		C. Viscoelastic Measurements
			Introduction to Viscoelasticity
			Static Measurements
			Dynamic Measurements
	IV. Managing Emulsion Rheology
	V. Correlating Objective Measurements With Subjective Evaluations
	VI. Predicting Stability
	VII. Processing Variables and Problems
	References
10. Predicting Stability in Rheologically Modified Systems
	I. Introduction
		A. Stability, A Balancing of Forces
	II. Identifying Dominant Interactions
		A. Isolating Interactions
		B. Characterizing Dominant Forces
			The Reactive Force
			The Interactive Forces
			van der Waals Force
			Hydrogen BondinglAcid-Base Interaction
		C. Noncharged System Interactions
			Inductive Keesorn Dipole Forces
			The London Dispersion Forces
	III. Quick Basic Theory
	IV. Classes of Mixed Systems
	V. System Dynamics
		A. Interacting Forces
		B. Mechanics of Phase Separation
	VI. Testing Stability
		A. Practical Stability Techniques
		B. Thermal Stress Methods
			Accelerated Thermal Stress
			Thermal Stress Freeze-Thaw
			Dgerential Thermal Analysis
		C. Physical Stress Methods
			Physical Stress-Rheology
			Physical Stress-Centrifugation
			Vibrational Shipping Test
		D. Other Test Methods
			Optical Light Dgusion
			Microscopy
			Conductivity
	VII. Predicting Stability
		A. Interpreting the Results of a Stability Study
		B. Linear Response-Temperature
		C. Linear Response-Pressure
		D. Nonlinear Response
	VIII. Conclusion
	References
11. Rheological Profiles
Index