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ویرایش: 2 سری: ISBN (شابک) : 9783030449667, 3030449661 ناشر: SPRINGER NATURE سال نشر: 2020 تعداد صفحات: 309 زبان: English فرمت فایل : PDF (درصورت درخواست کاربر به PDF، EPUB یا AZW3 تبدیل می شود) حجم فایل: 6 مگابایت
در صورت تبدیل فایل کتاب PRACTICAL ASPECTS OF COSMETIC TESTING : how to set up a scientific study in. به فرمت های PDF، EPUB، AZW3، MOBI و یا DJVU می توانید به پشتیبان اطلاع دهید تا فایل مورد نظر را تبدیل نمایند.
توجه داشته باشید کتاب جنبه های عملی آزمایش زیبایی: نحوه راه اندازی یک مطالعه علمی در: نسخه زبان اصلی می باشد و کتاب ترجمه شده به فارسی نمی باشد. وبسایت اینترنشنال لایبرری ارائه دهنده کتاب های زبان اصلی می باشد و هیچ گونه کتاب ترجمه شده یا نوشته شده به فارسی را ارائه نمی دهد.
ارزیابی فیزیولوژی پوست از یک رویکرد توصیفی به سمت درک عمیقتر فرآیندهای بیوفیزیکی و بیوشیمیایی در لایه شاخی مانند عملکرد سد اپیدرمی و هیدراتاسیون لایه شاخی حرکت میکند. رویکردهای جدید و غیرتهاجمی روشهای قابل اعتماد و تکرارپذیری را برای آزمایش محصول در صنعت داروسازی و آرایشی و همچنین در تحقیقات پایه ارائه میکنند. در حالی که ابزارهای استاندارد بر جنبههای عملکردی تمرکز دارند، دستگاههای نوآورانه درک عمیقتری از مکانیسمهای زیربنایی ارائه میدهند. این کتاب ارزیابی فیزیولوژی پوست و عملکردهای پوست در مطالعات بالینی را با استفاده از ابزارهای بیوفیزیکی غیرتهاجمی مورد بحث قرار می دهد و راهنمای جامعی برای برنامه ریزی، انجام و ارزیابی نتایج مطالعات علمی در اندازه گیری پوست و چارچوب قانونی این مطالعات را به خوانندگان ارائه می دهد. نوشته شده توسط کارشناسان برجسته در این زمینه، بر جنبه های عملی اندازه گیری های غیر تهاجمی تمرکز دارد. پس از معرفی جنبه های قانونی چارچوب فعلی برای مطالعات زیبایی بالینی و تحقیقات پایه در زیبایی شناسی، عملیات فنی سازماندهی آزمایشگاه آزمایش و پیش نیازهای برنامه ریزی یک مطالعه را بررسی می کند. بخش سوم و اصلی به موضوعات خاصی در تست های آرایشی می پردازد، به عنوان مثال. هیدراتاسیون پوست، و همچنین شامل فصل هایی در مورد جنبه های حسی و تجسم ساختار پوست در داخل بدن است. این نسخه جدید و به روز شده جنبه های عملی تست آرایشی ابزار ارزشمندی برای محققان، دانشجویان و کارکنان پزشکی است که می خواهند بینشی در مورد بهترین روش ارزیابی عملکرد پوست در مطالعات کنترل شده با استفاده از ابزارهای بیوفیزیکی غیرتهاجمی به دست آورند.
Skin physiology assessment is moving from a descriptive approach to a deeper understanding of biophysical and biochemical processes in the stratum corneum, such as epidermal barrier function and stratum corneum hydration. New, non-invasive approaches offer reliable and reproducible methods for product testing in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry, as well as in basic research. While standard instruments focus on functional aspects, innovative devices offer a deeper understanding of underlying mechanisms. This book discusses the assessment of skin physiology and of skin functions in clinical studies using non-invasive biophysical instruments, offering readers a comprehensive guide to planning, performing and evaluating the results of scientific studies in skin measurement and the legal framework for these studies. Written by leading experts in the field, it focuses on practical aspects of non-invasive measurements. After introducing the legal aspects of the current framework for clinical cosmetic studies and basic research in cosmetology, it explores the technical practicalities of organizing a testing lab and the pre-requirements for planning a study. The third and main section addresses specific topics in cosmetic testing e.g. skin hydration, and also includes chapters on sensory aspects and in vivo skin structure vizualization. This new, updated edition of Practical Aspects of Cosmetic Testing is a valuable tool for researchers, students, and medical staff wanting to gain insights into how best to assess skin functions in controlled studies using non-invasive biophysical instruments.
Preface to the Second Edition Preface to the First Edition Contents Part I: Legal Aspects of Cosmetic Testing Chapter 1: Regulatory Aspects 1.1 Comparison Between General Cosmetic Legislation in Europe and Other Countries 1.2 Recent Changes in European Cosmetic Regulation 1.3 Important Weblinks 1.3.1 European Union 1.3.2 USA 1.3.3 Canada 1.3.4 Japan 1.3.5 Mercosur Countries (Examples) 1.3.6 ASEAN Countries (Example) 1.3.7 South Africa 1.3.8 China 1.3.9 India 1.4 Cosmetic Safety Testing 1.5 Responsibility Considerations for Planning and Conduct of a Cosmetic Safety Study 1.6 Frequent Cosmetic Safety Study Models 1.7 Cosmetic Efficacy Testing 1.8 Cosmetic Labeling and Packaging References Chapter 2: Ethical Aspects of Cosmetic Testing 2.1 Introduction 2.2 Brief History of Research Ethics 2.3 Ethical Aspects of Cosmetic Testing 2.4 Ethical Aspects of Noninvasive Skin Measurements 2.5 Essential Ethical Requirements for Performing a Study 2.6 Other Considerations 2.7 Conclusion References Chapter 3: Good Clinical Practice 3.1 Principles of GCP 3.2 Standard Operating Procedures (SOPs) 3.3 Study Design and Protocol Standards 3.4 Conduct Standards 3.5 Recording and Reporting Standards References Chapter 4: Guidelines in Skin Testing 4.1 Introduction 4.2 Skin Bioengineering Endeavour 4.3 Validation of Methods and Instrumentations 4.4 Standardization and Quality Controls 4.5 Search for “Good Biometrological Practice” 4.6 Guidelines in Perspective 4.7 Conclusion References Chapter 5: Claim Support: How to Create and Substantiate Claims 5.1 Introduction: Cosmetic Claims and Cosmetic Product Testing 5.1.1 What Is a Cosmetic Claim? 5.1.2 Borderline Claims 5.2 The Process of Creating Cosmetic Claims 5.2.1 Global or Regional 5.2.2 Communication Style and Medium 5.2.3 Consumer Factors 5.3 Deciding How to Support a Claim 5.3.1 Classifying Claims 5.3.2 Level of Evidence 5.3.2.1 Established and Widely Available Evidence 5.3.2.2 Established Rationale But Requiring Specific Evidence 5.3.2.3 Evidence Based Upon a Significant Advance in Science or Technology 5.4 Generating Information to Support Claims 5.5 Presenting Information in Support of a Claim 5.6 State of the Art 5.7 Conclusion References Part II: General Aspects of Cosmetic Testing Chapter 6: Testing Laboratory 6.1 Requirements for Accommodation and Arrangement 6.1.1 Reception/Volunteer Recruitment Office 6.1.2 Data Base/Subject File Room 6.1.3 Waiting Area for Volunteers 6.1.4 Room for Conducting General Volunteer Information Sessions 6.1.5 Investigator’s Office(s)/Examination Room(s) 6.1.6 Testing Lab Room(s) 6.1.7 Staff Office(s) 6.1.8 Restrooms for Volunteers 6.1.9 Test Product/Sample Storage Room 6.2 Requirements for Ambient Conditions 6.3 Laboratory Quality Management System 6.3.1 General Quality Management 6.3.2 Measurement Devices Quality Management References Chapter 7: Research Staff 7.1 Requirements for Qualification and Training of Study Nurses and Investigators 7.1.1 Investigator 7.1.2 Study Assistant (Study Nurse) Chapter 8: Testing Population 8.1 Advertisements 8.2 Telephone Recruitment 8.3 Recruitment Through Third Parties/Intermediaries 8.4 Acquisition Criteria and Screening 8.5 Product-Related Information and Compliance Chapter 9: Testing Devices and Methods 9.1 Introduction 9.2 Technical Assessment of the Various Skin Parameters 9.3 The Measurement Technique, Norms, Standards, and Directives 9.4 The Practical Use of Measurement Devices 9.4.1 Factors Within the Laboratory 9.4.2 Factors Influencing the Choice of the Most Suitable Measurement Device References Chapter 10: Factors Influencing Measurements 10.1 Introduction 10.2 Sources of Error and Associated Variables 10.2.1 Instrument-Related Variables 10.2.1.1 Instrumental Variability, Start-Up, and Use 10.2.1.2 Measurements Surface Area Contact Time 10.2.2 Environment-Related Variables 10.2.2.1 Air Convections 10.2.2.2 Ambient Air Temperature 10.2.2.3 Ambient Air Humidity 10.2.2.4 Light Sources 10.2.2.5 Skin Cleansing 10.2.3 Individual-Related Variables 10.2.3.1 Age, Sex, and Race 10.2.3.2 Anatomical Sites 10.2.3.3 Sweating 10.2.3.4 Skin Surface Temperature 10.2.3.5 Skin Damage and Diseases 10.2.3.6 Circadian Rhythm 10.2.3.7 Menstrual Cycle and Hormones 10.2.3.8 Intra- and Interindividual Variation 10.3 Conclusions References Chapter 11: Study Design 11.1 Determination of Study Design 11.2 Study Objective(s) 11.3 Measurement Variables and Endpoints 11.4 Statistics 11.4.1 Sample Size Calculation 11.4.2 Statistical Methods 11.5 Ethical Review and Scientific Validity 11.6 Provision for Test Products 11.7 Provision for Test Persons 11.8 Study Documents 11.8.1 Study Protocol 11.8.2 Data Protection 11.8.3 Subject Information Sheet 11.8.4 Case Report Form (CRF) and Subject Diaries 11.9 Data Processing References Chapter 12: Cosmetic Testing Report 12.1 Introduction 12.2 Report Structure and Contents 12.2.1 Title Page 12.2.2 Synopsis (Study Summary) 12.2.3 Table of Contents 12.2.4 List of Abbreviations (If Applicable) 12.2.5 Ethics 12.2.6 Investigators and Study Administrative Structure 12.2.7 Introduction 12.2.8 Study Objectives 12.2.9 Investigational Plan (Material and Methods) 12.2.9.1 Product Tested 12.2.9.2 Study Participants (Volunteers) 12.2.9.3 Study Design and Plan 12.2.9.4 Evaluation Parameters (Test Variables) 12.2.9.5 Evaluation Methods and Equipment 12.2.9.6 Study Protocol 12.2.9.7 Statistics 12.2.9.8 Data Quality Assurance 12.2.9.9 Changes in the Conduct of the Study or Planned Analyses 12.2.10 Results 12.2.11 Discussion and Conclusions 12.2.12 Reference List 12.2.13 Signatures 12.2.14 Appendices (Attachments) 12.3 How to Publish the Results 12.3.1 Title Page 12.3.2 Conflict of Interest Notification Page 12.3.3 Abstract (Summary) 12.3.4 Keywords 12.3.5 Introduction 12.3.6 Material and Methods 12.3.7 Results 12.3.8 Discussion and Conclusions 12.3.9 Acknowledgments 12.3.10 References 12.3.11 Tables and Figures 12.3.12 Tables and Figures Legends 12.3.13 Sending the Manuscript to the Journal 12.4 Conclusions References Part III: Practical Aspects of Testing: Typical Examples of Test Settings Chapter 13: Moisturizers and Emollients 13.1 Introduction 13.1.1 Moisturizers and Emollients: What Are They? 13.1.2 Natural Sources for the Skin Hydration 13.1.3 Legislation and the Marketplace of Moisturizing Cosmetics 13.2 Noninvasive Biophysical Methods in Testing Moisturizers and Emollients 13.2.1 Evaluation of the Electrical Properties of the Outermost Skin Layers 13.2.2 Transepidermal Water Loss Assessment 13.2.3 Instrumental Evaluation of the Skin Topography 13.2.4 Spectroscopic and Optical Properties of the Skin 13.2.5 Evaluation of the Mechanical/Visco-Elastic Properties of the Skin 13.3 Practical Aspects of Moisturizers Testing 13.3.1 Selection of the Investigative Method 13.3.2 Study Design 13.3.2.1 Single Application Tests 13.3.2.2 Multiple Application Tests 13.3.2.3 Regression Tests 13.3.2.4 Efficacy on Pre-irritated Skin 13.3.3 Study Population 13.3.3.1 General Considerations 13.3.3.2 Number of Subjects 13.3.3.3 Individual-Related Variables Influencing the Biophysical Measurements 13.3.4 Test Site 13.3.5 The Study Procedures 13.3.5.1 Instructions to the Panelist 13.3.5.2 The Washout Phase 13.3.5.3 Environment-Related Variables Influencing the Measurements and the Panelist Acclimatization 13.3.5.4 The Product Application 13.3.5.5 The Measurement 13.3.5.6 Data Management and Evaluation 13.4 Conclusion References Chapter 14: Anti-aging and Anti-wrinkle Products 14.1 Introduction 14.2 Methods Used in the Evaluation of Antiaging Products 14.2.1 Clinical Assessment 14.2.2 Noninvasive Biophysical Methods 14.2.2.1 Instrumental Evaluation of the Skin Surface Topography 14.2.2.2 Epidermal Barrier Function by Transepidermal Water Loss Assessment 14.2.2.3 Evaluation of the SC Hydration by Electrical Methods 14.2.2.4 Skin Pigmentation and Color 14.2.2.5 Skin Surface Acidity (pH) 14.2.2.6 Assessment of Skin Microcirculation 14.2.2.7 Assessment of Skin Surface Lipids by Photometric Methods 14.2.2.8 Assessment of the Skin Mechanical Properties 14.2.3 Invasive Procedures 14.3 Study Design for Testing Antiaging Products 14.3.1 Study Population 14.3.2 Study Duration 14.3.3 Test Site 14.3.4 Product Application 14.3.5 Efficacy Assessment 14.3.6 Data Management and Evaluation 14.4 Conclusion References Chapter 15: Products for Impure, Acne-like Skin 15.1 Introduction 15.2 Test Settings 15.2.1 Study Background 15.2.2 Study Objectives 15.2.3 Material and Methods 15.2.3.1 Study Products 15.2.3.2 Study Subjects 15.2.3.3 Study Design 15.2.3.4 Study Methods Oily Skin Assessment Sensorial Assessment Instrumental Assessment Quality-of-Life Assessment Acne Lesions Assessment Sensorial Assessment Instrumental Assessment Quality-of-Life Assessment Product Acceptance Assessment Assessment of Unwanted Effects 15.2.3.5 Study Protocol 15.2.3.6 Study Ethics 15.2.3.7 Statistical Analysis 15.3 Conclusion References Chapter 16: Assessment of Hair Morphology 16.1 Introduction 16.2 Material and Methods 16.2.1 Hair Samples 16.2.2 Optical Interferometry 16.2.3 Tribohaptic Measurement 16.3 Results and Discussion 16.3.1 Effect of Chemical Treatments 16.3.1.1 Hair Topography 16.3.1.2 Friction and Wear of Hair 16.3.2 Effect of Thermomechanical Treatments 16.3.2.1 Hair Topography 16.3.2.2 Friction and Wear of Hair 16.4 Conclusion References Chapter 17: Skin Color and Pigmentation 17.1 Introduction 17.2 Skin Color 17.3 Melanin Pigment 17.4 Individual Differences 17.5 Instruments 17.5.1 Reflectance Spectrophotometric Evaluation 17.6 Study Procedure References Chapter 18: Characterization of Sunscreens: Determination of the SPF 18.1 Introduction 18.2 UVB Protection 18.3 Example for the SPF Determination 18.3.1 Determination of MED 18.3.2 Sunscreen Application 18.4 International Methods for the SPF Determination 18.5 Determination of the UVA Protection Factor 18.6 Classification of Sunscreens 18.7 Outlook 18.8 Summary References Chapter 19: Practical Aspects of Shampoo and Conditioner Testing 19.1 Introduction 19.2 Hair Science: Overview 19.3 Shampoos: An Overview 19.4 2-in-1 Shampoo + Conditioners: An Overview 19.5 Conditioners: An Overview 19.6 Evaluation Approaches 19.6.1 Consumer Evaluation Approaches 19.6.2 Technical Evaluation Approaches 19.7 Assessing Surface Damage: Microscopy 19.8 Lubrication 19.9 Strength 19.10 Static Electricity Retardation 19.11 Shine 19.12 Color Fade 19.13 Moisturization 19.14 A Note on Statistics 19.15 Summary References Chapter 20: Antiperspirants and Deodorants 20.1 Introduction 20.2 Antiperspirants and Deodorants: What Are They? 20.3 Testing Efficacy of Antiperspirants 20.3.1 Test Methods 20.3.2 Test Design 20.3.2.1 Gravimetric Evaluation of the Armpit Sweating Study Population The Conditioning Phase Test Procedure Data Evaluation 20.3.2.2 Multiple Product Test Design Study Population The Conditioning Phase Test Procedure Data Evaluation 20.4 Testing Efficacy of Deodorants 20.4.1 Test Methods 20.4.2 Test Design 20.4.2.1 Sniff Test Study Population The Conditioning Phase Test Procedure Data Evaluation 20.5 Conclusion References Chapter 21: Hair Growth 21.1 Introduction 21.2 Study Design 21.3 Assessment of Clinical Appearance (Investigator’s Questionnaire) 21.4 Clinical Grading Systems 21.5 Daily Hair Count 21.6 Hair Wash Test 21.7 Hair Pull Test 21.8 Hair Weighing 21.9 Trichogram 21.10 Unit Area Trichogram 21.11 Phototrichogram 21.12 Contrast-Enhanced Phototrichogram 21.13 Trichoscopy 21.14 Folliscope 21.15 Epiluminescence Microscopy of Hair (TrichoScan) 21.16 Global Photographs 21.17 Optical Coherence Tomography of Hair 21.18 Electron Microscopy of Hair 21.19 Confocal Laser Scanning Microscopy of Hair 21.20 Conclusions References Chapter 22: Sensory Perception 22.1 Introduction 22.2 Sensitive Skin 22.3 Underlying Mechanisms 22.4 Testing Sensory Perception 22.5 Setting Up a Test 22.6 Interpretation References Chapter 23: Novel Methods for In Vivo Skin Structure Visualization 23.1 Introduction 23.2 Reflectance Confocal Microscopy 23.2.1 RCM Technical Notes 23.2.2 RCM and Skin Structure in Healthy Skin 23.2.3 RCM and Skin Pigmentation 23.2.3.1 Vitiligo 23.2.3.2 Melasma 23.2.4 RCM and Skin Hydration 23.2.5 RCM and Skin Irritation 23.2.6 RCM and Skin Aging 23.2.7 RCM and Skin Rejuvenation 23.2.8 RCM and Acne-Prone Skin 23.3 Optical Coherence Tomography 23.3.1 OCT Technical Notes 23.3.2 OCT and Skin Layers 23.3.3 OCT Applications 23.4 Multiphoton Laser Microscopy 23.4.1 MPM Technical Notes 23.4.2 MPM Skin Layers/Applications 23.4.3 MPM Applications 23.5 Conclusions References Chapter 24: Assessment of Pruritus and Sensitive Skin 24.1 Pruritus 24.1.1 Introduction 24.1.2 Pruritus Intensity 24.1.3 Quality of Life 24.2 Sensitive Skin 24.2.1 Introduction 24.2.2 Assessment 24.2.3 Burden 24.3 Conclusions References Chapter 25: Practical Use and Significance of Transepidermal Water Loss Measurements 25.1 Introduction 25.2 The Bricks-and-Mortar Model 25.3 Instrumental Assessment of Epidermal Barrier Status and Repair 25.3.1 Industrial Vs. Legislation Needs to Measure Barrier Status and Repair 25.3.2 How to Assess the Positive Impact of Body Lotions and Protective Creams on Permeability Barrier Function? 25.3.3 Finding the Right Formula! 25.3.4 How Valid Is TEWL to Measure Skin Barrier? 25.3.5 Few Examples of Currently Used Instruments for Measuring Water Loss 25.4 Limits and Pitfalls of TEWL Measurement References Chapter 26: Compliance Check with On-Site Measurements: Advanced Ways in Product Testing 26.1 Introduction: Classical Laboratory Test 26.2 Efficacy Tests in the Real Environment of the Consumer (Field Studies) 26.3 The Device Corneometer® Mobile Data Collector DC 3000 26.4 Conclusion/Perspective References Index