Patternmaking History and Theory

Cover page
Halftitle page
Title page
Copyright page
Contents
List of Illustrations
Notes on Contributors
Preface
Introduction
1 A Brief History of Patternmaking
Part One Approaches to Patterning Apparel: Formal Systems and Improvisation
	2 An Education in Pattern Cutting c . 1950; the Work of E. Sheila MacEwan
		E. Sheila MacEwan as an educator
		Publishing pattern cutting texts in post-war Britain
		The Sylvan Press and Your Home Craft Series
		Changing landscapes in fashion production
		Your Pattern Cutting : approaches to cutting and design
		MacEwan’s design philosophy
		Austerity and agency
		Conclusion
	3 “Knitting Instructions”: An Analysis of Red Cross Clothing Patterns, 1917–65
		“Knitting now monopolizing women’s attention”
		The Woman’s Bureau: 1917
		The Department of Development: 1918–21
		Between the wars: 1922–39
		The Second World War: 1939–45
		The last twenty years: 1945–65
		Conclusion
	4 Making and Mending for Victory: Pattern Creation, Distribution, Use, and the Goal of Conservation for Home Sewers During the Second World War
		Making, mending, and the culture of sewing
		Paper patterns: design, availability, and challenges of use
		Communication of pattern concepts in pictures, through diagrams, and in text
		Pattern drafting: texts, tools, and classes
		Conclusions
Part Two Perspectives on Technical Design and Technological Advancement in Apparel Pattern Drafting
	5 The Tailor’s Voice: Pattern Drafting Systems and the State of the Art
		Introduction
		The making of menswear in the nineteenth century
		Challenges to the trade
		Eye, mind, hand—the work of the tailor
		The development of printed pattern draft ing systems
		British vs. American differences
		Conclusion
	6 Computer-Aided Patternmaking: A Brief History of Technology Acceptance from 2D Pattern Drafting to 3D Modeling
		Introduction
		Emergence of CAD
		CAD terms and definitions
		Importance of CAD in the apparel industry: big picture
		CAD in technical apparel design and manufacturing
		Technology acceptance and diffusion of CAD patternmaking
		Future trends pertaining to CAD patternmaking and conclusions
	7 Patternmaking Methods for Creating Size-Adjustable Garments
		Introduction
		Improving garment fit potential
		Improving apparel sustainability
		Method
		Information sources
		Information exploration approaches
		How garment patterns have been changed to make garments size-adjustable
		Conclusion: current and future applications of historical patternmaking practices to make garments adjustable
	8 Home Sewing Transformed: Changes in Sewing Pattern Formats and the Significance of Social Media and Web-Based Platforms in Participation
		Information sources
		Method: study of women’s sewing motivations and practices
		Method: independent sewing pattern designers
		Background: the home sewing participation resurgence
		The impact of the internet on twenty-first century home sewing participation
		Sewing knowledge
		Sewing together: the internet as a community building and decision-making tool
		Home sewing patterns in the twenty-first century: the impact of the internet
		Changes in home sewing patterns: format and content
		Changes in home sewing patterns: who has the ability to design and sell
		Conclusion
Part Three Creative Diversity: Multicultural Approaches to Pattern Creation
	9 Creolized Patterning: A Jamaican Perspective
		Freehand dressmaking
		Miss Cherry
		Gloria West
		Mrs. Andrea “Anniegee” Graham
		Conclusion
	10 Re-Make, Re-Model, Re-Define: Fashioning a Nation’s Identity
		Edicts, status, fabrication, and cut
		Modernization, Westernization, and the breaking of traditions
		Identity, economy, and practicality
	11 The Ottoman Kaft an: Designed to Impress
		Kaftan construction
		Conclusion
Notes
Bibliography
Index