Handbook of value addition processes for fabrics

Handbook of Value Addition Processes for Fabrics......Page 1
Copyright......Page 3
Contents......Page 4
Preface......Page 22
 1.1 Various value additions done on fabrics......Page 23
  1.1.1 Grey fabric inspection......Page 26
  1.1.2 Batching......Page 27
  1.1.10 Bleaching......Page 28
  1.1.13 Printing......Page 29
 1.2 Pretreatment......Page 30
 1.3 Machinery for textile value addition processes......Page 31
 2.1 Introduction......Page 32
 2.3 Purpose of desizing......Page 35
  2.5.2 Should not do......Page 36
 2.6 General activities in singeing and desizing of fabrics......Page 37
 2.7 Operating instructions for operating a combined gas singeing and desizing machine. (example—Osthoff singeing cum desizing machine)......Page 39
  2.9.1 Control points......Page 41
  2.9.2 Checkpoints......Page 42
 2.10 Normal problems in singeing and desizing off abrics......Page 43
  2.11.1 Dos......Page 44
  2.11.2 Don’ts......Page 45
  2.12.2 Authorities......Page 46
 3.2 Kier boiling......Page 47
  3.2.1 What kier boiling should and should not do?......Page 49
  3.2.2 General activities in kier boiling......Page 50
  3.2.5 Precautions to be taken for kier boiling......Page 51
  3.2.6 Control points and checkpoints for kier boiling......Page 52
  3.2.7 Normal problems in kier boiling......Page 54
  3.2.8 Dos and don’ts for kier boiling......Page 55
  3.2.9 Responsibilities and authorities of supervisor in kier boiling......Page 56
  3.3.1 J-box......Page 57
 3.4 Bleaching......Page 60
 3.5 Washing......Page 61
   3.5.1.2 Slack rope washing machine......Page 62
   3.5.1.3 Rotary drum washing machine......Page 63
  3.5.2 Open-width continuous washing machine......Page 64
  3.5.3 Horizontal washing machines......Page 65
 4.1 Mercerization purpose and systems......Page 67
 4.2 Chain mercerizing using caustic soda......Page 68
  4.2.2 Quality of mercerizing......Page 69
  4.2.3 General activities in fabric mercerizing using caustic soda......Page 70
  4.2.4 Typical operating procedure of a chain mercerizing machine using caustic soda......Page 71
  4.2.6 Control points and checkpoints in chain mercerizing using caustic soda......Page 78
  4.2.7 Dos and don’ts for chain mercerizing using caustic soda......Page 81
 4.3 Liquid ammonia (LA) mercerizing of cellulose fibres......Page 82
  4.3.1 Benefits of LA mercerizing......Page 83
  4.3.2 Standard operating procedure for LA mercerizing......Page 86
  4.3.3 Dos and Don’ts for LA mercerizing......Page 87
  4.4.1 Responsibility......Page 88
 4.5 Mercerizing of knitted fabrics in tubes......Page 89
 5.1 Padding—purpose and systems......Page 91
  5.3.3 Pad-batch process......Page 94
  5.3.5 Pad-steam process......Page 95
 5.6 Control points and checkpoints......Page 96
  5.6.2 Checkpoints......Page 97
  5.8.1 Dos......Page 98
  5.9.2 Authorities......Page 99
 6.2 Batch dyeing......Page 100
 6.3 Semi-continuous dyeing process......Page 101
 6.5 Jig dyeing machine......Page 102
  6.5.2 Dyeing process using a jigger......Page 105
  6.5.4 Typical operating procedure of dyeing on a jigger......Page 106
  6.5.5 Some typical problems that may be encountered in jig machines......Page 108
  6.5.7 Control points and checkpoints......Page 109
  6.5.8 Limitations of jigger......Page 111
  6.5.10 Responsibilities and authorities of supervisor in jigger dyeing......Page 112
 6.6 Continuous dyeing system......Page 113
  6.6.1 Problems in continuous dyeing......Page 119
 7.2 Winch dyeing......Page 120
 7.3 Jet Dyeing......Page 121
  7.4.1 Overflow dyeing machine......Page 123
   7.4.1.1 Functioning of an overflow dyeing machine......Page 124
  7.4.2 Soft flow dyeing machine......Page 125
   7.4.2.3 Types of soft flow dyeing machine......Page 126
   7.4.3.1 Working principle of airflow dyeing machine......Page 129
   7.4.3.2 Advantages of airflow machine......Page 130
 7.5 Process steps in jet dyeing......Page 131
 7.6 Control points and checkpoints......Page 132
 7.8 Dos and Don’ts......Page 134
 8.1 Concept......Page 135
 8.2 Principle of operation......Page 136
 8.3 Various activities that can be done using airflow machines......Page 139
 8.4 Typical work procedure for softening cotton fabrics......Page 141
 8.5 Control points and checkpoints......Page 142
  8.5.2 Checkpoints......Page 143
  8.6.2 Don’ts......Page 144
  9.2.1 Should do......Page 145
 9.3 Areas where drying is needed in textiles......Page 146
 9.5 Centrifugal hydroextraction......Page 147
 9.6 Mangling......Page 148
 9.7 Drying Cylinders......Page 149
 9.8 Hot air drying......Page 151
  9.8.1 Drying of hanks using hot air chamber......Page 153
 9.10 Radio Frequency Drying (RFD)......Page 154
  9.10.1 Why RFD?......Page 155
 9.12 Stenter......Page 156
 9.13 Relax dryers......Page 158
 10.1 Purpose and functions......Page 161
  10.3.1 Feeding......Page 162
  10.3.2 Padding of the finishing chemicals......Page 164
  10.3.4 Drying unit......Page 165
  10.3.5 Clips and pins......Page 168
  10.3.6 After drying......Page 169
 10.4 Typical operating procedure for operating a modern hot-air stenter......Page 171
  10.5.1 Control points......Page 173
  10.5.2 Checkpoints......Page 174
  10.6.2 Don’ts......Page 176
 10.7 Tips for saving energy while stenter processing......Page 177
 11.1 What is radio frequency (RF) drying......Page 180
 11.2 Advantages of RF drying......Page 182
 11.3 RF calculations......Page 184
  11.4.2 Tops......Page 185
  11.4.7 Bales......Page 186
 11.5 Typical RFD......Page 187
 11.6 Typical working procedure......Page 188
  11.7.1 Dos......Page 189
  11.7.4 Safety notices......Page 190
 12.1 Principle and purpose......Page 192
 12.2 Different types of relax dryers......Page 193
 12.3 A typical procedure for drying with relax steam drying machine......Page 198
  12.4.2 Don’ts......Page 200
 13.2 Earlier systems......Page 201
 13.3 Process of scouring and milling......Page 202
 13.4 Modern scouring and milling machine......Page 203
 13.5 A typical work procedure for operating CombiSoft......Page 206
  13.6.1 Control points......Page 207
  13.6.2 Checkpoints......Page 208
  13.7.1 Dos......Page 209
  13.7.2 Don’ts......Page 210
 14.2 Working principle......Page 211
 14.3 Typical work procedure for operating rotary drumwashing machine......Page 213
  14.4.1 Control points......Page 214
  14.4.2 Checkpoints......Page 215
  14.5.1 Dos......Page 216
  14.5.2 Don’ts......Page 217
 15.1 Introduction to weight reduction......Page 218
 15.2 Softleena machine for weight reduction of polyester fabrics......Page 219
 15.3 Operating procedure for using Softleena machine......Page 220
 15.4 Typical process sheet for scouring on Softleena......Page 221
 15.5 Typical process sheet for weight reduction on Softleena......Page 222
  15.6.1 Drumming......Page 223
  15.6.3 Single-bath scouring and weight reduction......Page 224
  15.6.4 Single-bath scouring/weight reduction and grainy effect on high twist 100% polyester qualities......Page 225
 15.7 Continuous weight reduction process......Page 226
 15.8 Control points and checkpoints......Page 227
  15.8.2 Checkpoints......Page 228
 15.9 Dos and Don’ts......Page 229
  15.9.2 Don’ts......Page 230
 16.1 What is peaching?......Page 231
  16.2.1 Single-cylinder sueder machine......Page 232
   16.2.3.1 Caru, Italy (The Patterson Group, Charlotte, NC)......Page 233
   16.2.3.2 Lafer SpA, Italy (SGA, Charlotte, NC)......Page 234
   16.2.3.4 Sperotto Rimar SpA, Italy (Speizman Industries, Charlotte, NC)......Page 237
 16.3 Typical operating procedure for sueding machine......Page 238
  16.4.1 Control points......Page 239
  16.4.2 Checkpoints......Page 240
  16.5.1 Dos......Page 241
  16.5.2 Don’ts......Page 242
 17.1 What is raising?......Page 243
 17.2 Early raising machines......Page 246
  17.3.1 Xetma multisystem XR......Page 247
  17.3.2 Xetma multisystem XRE......Page 248
  17.3.4 Lafer raising machine......Page 249
 17.4 Typical operating procedure......Page 251
  17.5.2 Checkpoints......Page 253
 17.6 Dos and Don’ts......Page 255
 18.2 Different applications of shearing......Page 256
 18.3 How does a shearing machine work?......Page 257
 18.4 Modern shearing machines......Page 259
 18.5 Typical operating procedure......Page 260
 18.6 Control points and checkpoints......Page 262
  18.6.2 Checkpoints......Page 263
 18.7 Dos and Don’ts......Page 264
  18.7.2 Don’ts......Page 265
 19.1 What is decatizing?......Page 267
 19.3 Decatizing wrappers......Page 268
 19.4 Decatizing machines......Page 270
  19.4.1 Kier decatizing......Page 271
  19.4.2 Continuous decatizing......Page 272
  19.5.1 KD Minimat HQ model manufactured by Biella Shrunk Process (Italy)......Page 274
  19.5.2 KD Gigante—machine for ‘KD’ permanent finishing and for atmospheric decatizing......Page 275
  19.5.3 Thermo Duplex 90—continuous decatizing machine......Page 277
  19.5.4 Continuous pressing and setting machines Contipress GPP 400......Page 278
  19.5.5 Continuous-decatizing-machines—Superfinish GFP 800, system Kettling and Braun......Page 279
 19.6 Typical operating procedure of a continuous decatizing machine......Page 280
 19.7 Dos and Don’ts......Page 281
  19.7.2 Don’ts......Page 282
 20.1 What is Formula 1?......Page 283
 20.2 Working principle......Page 284
 20.3 Typical working procedure......Page 287
  20.4.2 Checkpoints......Page 289
  20.5.2 Don’ts......Page 291
 21.2 Principle of operation......Page 292
  21.2.1 Main characteristics of ‘KD Suprema 95’......Page 293
  21.2.2 Technical characteristics......Page 294
 21.3 Typical operating procedure......Page 296
  21.4.2 Checkpoints......Page 300
  21.5.2 Don’ts......Page 302
 22.2 Sanforization......Page 303
  22.2.1 Procedure adopted for sanforizing......Page 305
  22.2.2 Dos and Don’ts for sanforizing......Page 308
  22.3.1 Procedure for operating comfit machine......Page 309
 22.4 Steam relaxing......Page 311
  22.4.2 Process of relax shrinking......Page 312
  22.4.3 Operating procedures for steam relaxing machine......Page 314
  22.4.4 Control points and checkpoints......Page 315
 22.5 Jet air relaxation drying......Page 317
 22.6 Relax shrinking of knit fabrics containing Lycra......Page 318
 22.7 Compacting tubular knitted fabrics......Page 321
 22.8 Open-width compactor......Page 323
 23.1 What is calendering?......Page 325
 23.3 Components of calendering machine......Page 326
  23.4.1 Beetling......Page 327
  23.4.3 Embossed......Page 328
  23.4.4 Schreiner......Page 331
  23.4.5 Swizzing effect......Page 333
  23.4.7 Friction calender......Page 334
 23.5 Typical working procedure for a friction calender......Page 335
  23.5.1 Terminating the production of calender machine......Page 336
  23.6.2 Checkpoints......Page 337
  23.7.2 Don’ts......Page 339
 24.2 Steps in printing......Page 341
  24.2.2 Printing flowchart of 100% cotton fabrics......Page 342
  24.2.4 Sequence of discharge printing process on cotton:discharge printing style......Page 343
  24.2.7 Process flow of Inkjet printing......Page 344
 24.3 Traditional styles of printing......Page 345
 24.4 Methods of printing......Page 346
  24.4.1 Block printing......Page 347
  24.4.2 Burnout printing......Page 348
  24.4.4 Digital printing......Page 349
  24.4.6 Engraved roller printing......Page 350
  24.4.7 Electrostatic printing......Page 351
  24.4.8 Flock printing......Page 352
  24.4.10 Jet spray printing......Page 353
  24.4.13 Screen printing......Page 355
  24.4.15 Stencil printing......Page 356
  24.4.19 Special methods......Page 357
 24.6 Preparation of colours......Page 359
 24.7 Selecting thickening agents......Page 360
 24.8 Printing paste preparation......Page 362
 25.1 Introduction......Page 363
 25.2 Advantages of digital fabric printing......Page 364
 25.3 Activity......Page 365
  25.4.1 VARAD digital screen printing machines......Page 372
  25.4.2 Digital textile printer d.gen 740TX/C......Page 373
  25.4.4 Cromos of DUA Graphic Systems (DGS), Italy......Page 374
  25.4.6 DuPont Artistri......Page 375
 25.5 Typical procedure for digital printing......Page 376
 25.6 Digital printing solutions......Page 385
 25.7 Problems/limitations associated with digital printing......Page 386
 26.1 Evolution of garment washing techniques......Page 387
 26.2 Types of garment washing......Page 388
 26.3 Garment wash......Page 389
 26.4 Objects of garment washing......Page 390
  26.6.1 Normal wash......Page 391
  26.6.3 Bleach wash......Page 392
  26.6.4 Stone-wash......Page 393
   26.6.4.1 A typical procedure for stone washing......Page 394
  26.6.5 Alternate methods for stone-washing......Page 395
  26.6.6 Stone-wash with chlorine......Page 396
  26.6.7 Acid wash......Page 397
  26.6.8 Enzyme wash......Page 398
  26.6.9 Ice wash......Page 399
  26.6.10 Cellulase wash (Bio-stone-washing)......Page 400
  26.6.12 Caustic wash......Page 402
  26.6.14 Whitening......Page 403
  26.6.16 Sand blasting......Page 404
  26.6.19 Water jet fading......Page 405
  26.6.22 Laser marking/spray painting......Page 406
 26.7 Different types of washing faults/defects......Page 407
 27.2 Grey inspection......Page 409
 27.4 Batching the fabrics......Page 410
 27.5 Brushing......Page 411
 27.7 Rope opening......Page 412
 27.8 Spot washing......Page 413
 27.9 Mending defects......Page 414
  27.9.1 Stages of mending......Page 415
 27.10 Transporting fabrics for folding......Page 419
  27.11.1 Fabric inspection and roll folding......Page 420
 27.12 Packing......Page 423
 27.13 Sample preparation and presentation......Page 424
  27.13.1 Swatch cards......Page 425
  27.13.2 Memo sample......Page 426
  27.13.3 Sample hangers......Page 427
  27.13.4 Sample books......Page 428
 27.14 To conclude......Page 430
 28.2 Problems originating from the fibre and yarn......Page 431
 28.3 Problems originating from fabric formation......Page 432
 28.4 Problems due to water quality......Page 433
 28.5 Problems in singeing......Page 435
 28.6 Problems in desizing......Page 437
 28.7 Problems in scouring......Page 438
 28.8 Problems in bleaching......Page 441
 28.9 Problems in mercerizing......Page 445
  28.10.1 Problems with reactive dyes......Page 447
  28.10.2 Problems in dyeing with direct dyes......Page 448
  28.10.4 Problems in dyeing with vat dyes......Page 450
  28.11.1 Reproducibility and right-first-time dyeing......Page 454
 28.12 Factors affecting dye selection and evaluation......Page 458
 28.13 To conclude......Page 459
References and further reading......Page 460