Fashion and Materiality: Cultural Practices in Global Contexts

Title Page
Copyright Page
Contents
Figures
Acknowledgments
Introduction: Fashion and materiality
	Note
	References
Section 1: Fashion and clothing: Materials in time and place
	Introduction
	References
	Chapter 1: Material subjects: Making place, making time through fashion
		Place
		Time
		Material subjects
		References
	Chapter 2: Dressed lives: Biography, emotion, and materiality
		Marie Frech: pious things, pious dresses?
		The black dress and the white dress
		Renate K.: clothes as memoirs
		Conclusions
		References
	Chapter 3: The discovery of materiality: Archeological clothing finds, representation, and knowledge formation
		Textile archeology
		Confronting sources
		A brief record of a long series of (mis)interpretations
		Theological principle and the development of the canon
		Problems of source criticism and the chronotype
		Monopoly of representability
		New media and tools for dress research
		Requirements for a paradigm shift
		Note
		References
	Chapter 4: Appropriating the world through clothing: Christoph Kress’s foreign dress collection
		The collector
		The collection
		Agents and provenances
		Notes
		References
Section 2: Materiality in motion: Global circuits of fashion
	Introduction
	References
	Chapter 5: Chinoiserie in fashion: Material images circulating between China and Europe
		Chinoiserie fashion
		The material allure of foreign luxuries
		Fashionable emulation: The many sources for chinoiserie
		Chinoiserie as embodied images
		References
	Chapter 6: Tradition in fashion: Golden embroidery and the crafting of heritage in Bukhara
		Golden embroidery: Between Khanate, Protectorate, and Soviet republic
		Embroidering a new tradition (1991–2017)
		Crafting heritage in Bukhara
		Bukhara as a craft tourism destination
		Conclusion
		Note
		References
	Chapter 7: “Our dress”: Chitenge as Zambia’s national fabric
		The national fabric
		Sourcing and production
		Chitenge fashions
		Going to the tailor
		Designers and new style creations
		Fabric, dress, and body works
		Conclusion
		Notes
		References
	Chapter 8: “Made in China”: Material meanderings of fast-fashion cities
		China on my mind
		Lace at 30,000 feet in the air
		Design, machines, and borders
		The pyramids and an urban village
		A copy of a copy of a copy
		“Made in China”
Section 3: Materiality and embodiment
	Introduction
	References
	Chapter 9: Sensorial cosmologies: Fashion design and the embodied practices of the wearer
		The social life of a designer’s production
		Narratives of material subjectivations
		Style and the creative cosmos of the wearer
		A decommodified fashion object
		Exploring sensuous cartographies
		Heterogeneous logics of practice
		Notes
		References
	Chapter 10: The left-hand pose: Alchemic realism and the intra-action of music, body, and dress in metal yoga
		Fashion beyond representation
		Power in the flesh
		Alchemic realism: Yoga and embodied intra-action
		Becoming demon: One and many assemblages of eroticism
		The fashion of dark intra-actions
		References
	Chapter 11: “Feeling premium”: Athleisure and the material transformation of sportswear
		Athleisure and the active body
		Training body and mind: The legacy of uniforms and sportswear
		Materials, fitness, and comfort
		Luxury athleisure and the labor of self-improvement
		Branding athleisure in the global marketplace
		Conclusion: The future of athleisure
		References
Section 4: Material exchanges: Fashion and migration
	Introduction
	References
	Chapter 12: International fashion shows: Creating transcultural relationships through clothing
		International fashion shows in Bremen
		The presentation—hybrid fashion
		The models—fashion shows as empowerment
		Fashion shows and material culture
		Fashion shows—alternative appropriations
		References
	Chapter 13: Entangled histories: Fashion and the politics of migration
		Fashioning ethnoscapes: Vulnerability and the celebration of sub-Saharan African immigrants
		The Turkish apparel industry: Forced migration and new sources of cheap labor
		Narratives of a second life: Enacting humanitarian values of fashion
		Conclusion
		References
Contributors
Index