Cosmeceuticals and Active Cosmetics: Drugs vs. Cosmetics, Second Edition (Cosmetic Science and Technology, Volume 27)

About the Series......Page 8
Preface......Page 12
Contributors......Page 14
Contents......Page 18
1 Cosmeceuticals: A Broad-Spectrum Category between Cosmetics and Drugs......Page 22
THE ORIGIN OF THE COSMECEUTICAL CONCEPT......Page 24
ENTER COSMECEUTICALS......Page 25
THE INTERNATIONAL SCENE......Page 27
COSMECEUTICALS: A DIVERSITY OF OPINIONS......Page 28
REFERENCES......Page 29
2 Definition......Page 32
REFERENCES......Page 34
Classes......Page 36
INTRODUCTION......Page 38
Existence and Roles of Amino Acids in the Skin......Page 39
EFFECTIVE AMINO ACID DELIVERY INTO SKIN......Page 51
AMINO ACID DERIVATIVES FOR EXTENDED APPLICATIONS......Page 52
REFERENCES......Page 55
4 Antioxidant Defense Systems in Skin......Page 58
INTRODUCTION......Page 59
CONSTITUTIVE SKIN ANTIOXIDANTS Water-Soluble Antioxidants......Page 60
Lipid-Soluble Antioxidants......Page 65
Enzymatic Antioxidant Systems......Page 70
Effect of Environmental Stressors on Skin Antioxidants......Page 72
Topical Application of Antioxidants......Page 76
SUMMARY AND CONCLUSION......Page 95
REFERENCES......Page 96
5 Botanical Extracts......Page 110
EXTRACTION PROCESS......Page 111
Purification......Page 112
Activity......Page 113
CONCLUSION......Page 117
REFERENCES......Page 118
INTRODUCTION......Page 120
STRATUM CORNEUM, THE LIPID BARRIER AND ITS "REPAIR"......Page 122
Short-Term "Repair"......Page 127
Long-Term Study......Page 128
Visualization of Barrier Disruption and Lipid Integration (="Repair")......Page 129
Barrier Repair Leads to Improved Water Retention......Page 131
EPIDERMIS: HOW TO BUILD THE STRATUM CORNEUM BARRIER......Page 133
DERMIS: THE FINAL FRONTIER......Page 140
CONCLUSION......Page 145
REFERENCES......Page 146
7 Seborrheic Dermatitis (Dandruff)......Page 150
ETIOLOGY AND PATHOGENESIS......Page 151
TREATMENT......Page 153
REFERENCES......Page 154
8 Decorative Products......Page 158
INTRODUCTION......Page 161
Color Additives: Definitions......Page 162
United States Regulations......Page 163
European Community......Page 164
COLOR CHEMISTRY AND MANUFACTURE......Page 165
ORGANIC PIGMENTS......Page 166
Stability of Organic Pigments......Page 167
INORGANIC PIGMENTS......Page 168
Zinc Oxide......Page 169
Chromium Oxide (Cr2O3)......Page 170
Test Methods......Page 171
Pearlescent Pigments......Page 172
Treated Pigments......Page 173
MAKEUP TECHNOLOGY......Page 175
Face Powders......Page 176
Powder Blushers......Page 179
Quality Assurance on Powder Products......Page 180
Emulsified Foundations......Page 181
Anhydrous Foundations......Page 182
Mascara......Page 184
Cream Eye Shadows......Page 187
Eyeliners......Page 188
LIPSTICKS......Page 189
Classical Lipstick......Page 190
Volatile Lipstick......Page 191
NAIL COLOR......Page 192
Face Products......Page 193
Manicure Preparations......Page 202
REFERENCES......Page 203
INTRODUCTION......Page 206
SCREENING TESTS FOR DEPIGMENTATION AGENTS......Page 211
CLINICAL EVALUATION......Page 215
THE CASE OF KOJIC ACID......Page 221
REFERENCES......Page 225
INTRODUCTION......Page 228
CHEMICAL STRUCTURE AND NATURAL SOURCES OF AHAS......Page 229
BIOLOGICAL ACTIVITIES OF HYDROXYACIDS......Page 230
EFFECTS ON CORNEOCYTE COHESION AND STRATUM CORNEUM FUNCTIONS......Page 231
PEELING AND CAUSTIC EFFECTS......Page 232
ACNE AND PSEUDOFOLLICULITIS TREATMENT......Page 233
BOOSTING PHYSIOLOGICAL ASPECTS OF SKIN......Page 234
REFERENCES......Page 235
INTRODUCTION......Page 240
THE CHEMISTRY OF "DRY" SC Water......Page 242
Lipids......Page 243
Fats, Oils, and Emulsifiers......Page 245
Humectants......Page 247
Influence of Moisturizers on Skin Chemistry......Page 248
Influence of Moisturizers on Skin Structure and Desquamation......Page 249
THE BARRIER FUNCTION OF SC......Page 253
Influence of Moisturizers on Skin Barrier Function......Page 254
CONCLUDING REMARKS......Page 256
REFERENCES......Page 257
12 Alternative Drugs in Dermatology: An Overview......Page 268
TEA EXTRACTS......Page 269
OTHER EXTRACTS......Page 270
ESSENTIAL FATTY ACIDS......Page 271
ESSENTIAL OILS......Page 274
VITAMINS C AND E......Page 275
CONCLUSION......Page 278
REFERENCES......Page 279
13 Cosmeceuticals in Photoaging......Page 282
BACKGROUND......Page 283
CLINICAL AND HISTOLOGICAL PRESENTATIONS......Page 284
Instrumentation......Page 286
Clinical Methods......Page 287
PREVENTION OF PHOTOAGING......Page 288
Prevention Products......Page 289
Treatment Products......Page 291
Retinoids......Page 292
FUTURE TRENDS......Page 295
REFERENCES......Page 296
PLANT STEROLS......Page 300
SOURCES OF PHYTOSTEROLS......Page 302
PHYTOSTEROLS AND CHOLESTEROL-LOWERING FUNCTIONAL FOODS......Page 303
PHYTOSTEROLS AND THE IMMUNE SYSTEM......Page 304
PHYTOSTEROLS AND CANCER......Page 305
STEROLS/PHYTOSTEROLS AND THE SKIN......Page 306
PHYTOSTEROLS AND ECZEMA......Page 307
PHYTOSTEROLS IN COSMECEUTICALS - THE FUTURE?......Page 308
ARE RISKS ENTAILED IN USING PHYTOSTEROLS?......Page 309
REFERENCES......Page 310
INTRODUCTION......Page 314
SC and Hydration......Page 315
Role of Physiological Lipids......Page 317
Barrier Protection and Barrier Recovery......Page 318
APPLICATION......Page 321
CONCLUSION......Page 322
REFERENCES......Page 323
SEBACEOUS GLANDS Anatomy......Page 328
Sebum Secretion......Page 329
Human......Page 331
SEBUM IN HEALTH......Page 334
SEBUM IN DISEASE - ACNE......Page 335
REFERENCES......Page 336
OVERVIEW......Page 340
RETINOL......Page 343
PENETRATION, ABSORPTION, AND CUTANEOUS METABOLISM OF TOPICAL RETINOIDS......Page 344
Cellular Uptake of Retinol......Page 345
Cutaneous Metabolism......Page 346
Pharmacological Effects of Retinol In Vitro and In Vivo......Page 347
TRETINOIN THERAPY IN PHOTOAGING......Page 348
TOXICITY......Page 350
REFERENCES......Page 351
INTRODUCTION......Page 354
ACUTE UV-INDUCED SKIN DAMAGE......Page 355
REACTIVE OXYGEN SPECIES GENERATED BY UV IRRADIATION AND SKIN DAMAGE......Page 357
Superoxide Anion, Hydrogen Peroxide, and Hydroxyl Radical......Page 358
Singlet Oxygen......Page 359
Nitric Oxide......Page 360
Antioxidants......Page 362
Iron Chelators......Page 364
CONCLUSION......Page 366
REFERENCES......Page 367
INTRODUCTION......Page 370
COSMETIC APPROACHES TO PHOTOAGED SKIN......Page 371
GROWTH FACTORS AND WOUND HEALING......Page 372
GROWTH FACTORS IN COSMETIC APPLICATIONS......Page 374
COMBINATION APPROACHES: LASER PLUS TOPICAL GROWTH FACTORS......Page 377
RISKS ASSOCIATED WITH GROWTH FACTORS......Page 378
CONCLUSIONS......Page 379
REFERENCES......Page 380
Substances......Page 384
INTRODUCTION......Page 386
BIOLOGICAL AND PHARMACOLOGICAL ACTIONS......Page 387
Nicotinic Receptors......Page 388
Muscarinic Receptors......Page 389
Skin Firmness......Page 390
SAFETY......Page 391
REFERENCES......Page 392
21 Hyaluronan: The Natural Skin Moisturizer......Page 394
INTRODUCTION......Page 395
HISTORICAL PERSPECTIVE The "Ground Substance" Era......Page 396
The Modern Era......Page 397
Overview......Page 398
Structure and Terminology......Page 399
Function......Page 400
Aging......Page 402
Intracellular Hyaluronan......Page 404
HYALURONAN RECEPTORS CD44......Page 405
Artifacts of Hyaluronan Histolocalization in Skin......Page 406
Epidermal Hyaluronan......Page 407
Aging Skin......Page 408
Acute and Chronic Inflammation......Page 409
Hyaluronan in Skin Substitutes......Page 410
The Hyaluronidases......Page 411
HYALURONIDASE INHIBITORS Macromolecular Inhibitors......Page 412
Low Molecular Weight Inhibitors......Page 413
OXIDATIVE STRESS AND SKIN HYALURONAN......Page 414
Retinoic Acid and Its Derivatives......Page 415
GENERAL COMMENTS FROM DERMATOLOGY AND COSMETIC PERSPECTIVES......Page 416
REFERENCES......Page 417
INTRODUCTION......Page 428
BIOLOGY......Page 429
CLINICAL STUDIES......Page 431
REFERENCES......Page 432
INTRODUCTION......Page 434
MELATONIN AND UV PROTECTION......Page 435
MELATONIN: A NATURAL PRODUCT IN EDIBLE PLANTS......Page 437
CONCLUSION......Page 438
REFERENCES......Page 439
24 Topical Niacinamide Provides Skin Aging Appearance Benefits while Enhancing Barrier Function......Page 442
MATERIALS AND METHODS Cell Culture Methods......Page 443
NADPH Level Assay......Page 444
Keratin Synthesis Assay......Page 445
Clinical Testing......Page 446
NADPH Levels......Page 450
Collagen Synthesis......Page 451
Barrier Layer Components......Page 452
Skin Barrier Function......Page 453
Facial Skin Tolerance of Niacinamide......Page 455
Reduction in Sebum Excretion and Pore Size......Page 456
DISCUSSION......Page 459
REFERENCES......Page 460
25 Topical Retinyl Propionate Achieves Skin Benefits with Favorable Irritation Profile......Page 462
INTRODUCTION......Page 463
Human Studies......Page 464
Back Cumulative Irritation Test......Page 468
Facial Irritation Test 1......Page 469
Facial Benefits Study 1......Page 471
Retinoid Photostability......Page 476
Facial Benefits Study 2......Page 477
Inhibition of Dermal GAG Production......Page 479
DISCUSSION......Page 480
REFERENCES......Page 482
26 Phyllanthus Tannins......Page 486
HYDROLYZABLE TANNINS......Page 487
CONDENSED TANNINS (PROANTHOCYANIDINS)......Page 488
OCCURRENCE OF TANNINS......Page 490
Product Description and Standardization......Page 491
Antioxidant Activity......Page 493
Chelating Activity......Page 497
Matrix Metalloprotease (MMP) Enzymes......Page 499
Extracellular Matrix (ECM) Proteins......Page 501
Skin Lightening/Skin Even-Toning......Page 502
Safety Data......Page 504
CONCLUSION......Page 505
REFERENCES......Page 506
27 Management of Unwanted Facial Hair by Topical Application of Eflornithine......Page 510
MANAGEMENT OF UNWANTED FACIAL HAIR IN WOMEN......Page 511
EFLORNITHINE, A SELECTIVE INHIBITOR OF ODC AND HAIR GROWTH......Page 512
EFLORNITHINE DELIVERY TO ANAGEN HAIR FOLLICLE......Page 513
Percutaneous ADME Studies......Page 515
Clinical Safety of Topical Eflornithine......Page 516
Phase I Clinical Study......Page 517
Phase II and Phase III Clinical Studies (Placebo Controlled)......Page 518
Phase II Objective Hair Length Reductions......Page 521
Phase II Investigator Perceptions......Page 523
Subject Perception Evaluations......Page 525
Phase III Perception......Page 527
CONCLUSIONS......Page 528
REFERENCES......Page 529
INTRODUCTION......Page 532
SKIN-WHITENING INGREDIENTS......Page 534
Biochemical Properties......Page 535
Skin-Whitening Activity in Humans......Page 536
Mode of EA Activity......Page 537
REFERENCES......Page 541
INTRODUCTION......Page 544
Hsp70......Page 545
Heat Shock Regulation......Page 546
MEDICAL AND PHARMACEUTICAL INTEREST IN Hsp......Page 547
Supplying Hsp70......Page 548
Hsp and UV Stress......Page 549
Hsp and Aging......Page 550
Hsp and Retinoids......Page 552
LOOKING AHEAD......Page 553
REFERENCES......Page 554
INTRODUCTION......Page 558
Clinical Study with Evelle......Page 559
RESULTS......Page 561
DISCUSSION......Page 562
REFERENCES......Page 564
REGULATORY ENVIRONMENT......Page 566
REFERENCES......Page 567
32 Copper Peptide and Skin......Page 570
Molecular Biology......Page 571
Molecular Pharmacology......Page 572
GHK-Cu Analogs......Page 573
Skin Penetration Study of GHK-Cu......Page 575
CONTROLLED USAGE STUDY IN PHOTODAMAGED SKIN......Page 576
Methods......Page 577
Clinical Results......Page 578
Viscoelastic Properties......Page 579
SAFETY OF GHK-Cu COMPLEX......Page 580
REFERENCES......Page 582
Toxicology......Page 586
33 Dermatotoxicology Overview......Page 588
DERMATOPHARMACOKINETICS: RELATION TO PREDICTIVE ASSAYS......Page 589
ALLERGIC CONTACT DERMATITIS......Page 591
DRAIZE TEST......Page 592
OPEN EPICUTANEOUS TEST......Page 593
OPTIMIZATION TEST......Page 594
GUINEA PIG MAXIMIZATION TEST......Page 595
REPEAT INSULT PATCH TESTS......Page 596
IRRITANT DERMATITIS......Page 598
Human Irritation Tests......Page 599
CONTACT URTICARIA SYNDROME......Page 600
IMMUNOLOGICAL CONTACT URTICARIA......Page 601
SUBJECTIVE IRRITATION AND PARESTHESIA......Page 602
REFERENCES......Page 603
34 Contact Urticaria Syndrome and Claims Support......Page 608
EPIDEMIOLOGY......Page 609
Nonimmunological Contact Urticaria......Page 610
Immunological Contact Urticaria......Page 611
Subject Selection......Page 612
Serial Doses......Page 613
CUS Inhibition......Page 614
Measurement of Erythema......Page 615
Laser-Doppler Blood Flowmetry......Page 616
ICU......Page 617
REFERENCES......Page 618
Product Development......Page 622
INTRODUCTION......Page 624
APPLICATION FOR DECREASING THE AMOUNT OF EMULSIFIER......Page 625
APPLICATION CORRESPONDENCE IN ORDER TO DECREASE PRESERVATIVES......Page 628
APPLICATION TO SOLUBILITY AND DISPERSION......Page 629
SCALE-UP......Page 631
CONCLUSION......Page 632
REFERENCES......Page 633
The Industry View......Page 634
36 Cosmeceuticals or Not? The Industry View: Europe......Page 636
EUROPEAN UNION......Page 638
USA......Page 639
ADVANCES IN THE SCIENCE OF SKIN AND COSMETIC CARE......Page 640
REFERENCES......Page 643
Regulatory......Page 644
37 Legal Distinction in USA between Cosmetic and Drug......Page 646
HISTORICAL OVERVIEW......Page 647
LEGISLATIVE HISTORY OF THE COSMETIC AND DRUG PROVISIONS OF THE 1938 ACT......Page 648
IMPLEMENTATION OF THE FD&C ACT......Page 650
Initial FDA Action under the FD&C Act......Page 651
Wrinkle Remover Cases of the 1960s......Page 652
OTC Drug Review......Page 653
Warning Letters of the Late 1980s......Page 654
Use of Foreign Marketing Experience......Page 656
Rationale of the Tobacco Initiative......Page 658
Budgetary Impact on the FDA......Page 659
POTENTIAL FUTURE APPROACHES......Page 660
REFERENCES......Page 661
REGULATORY ENVIRONMENT......Page 664
COSMECEUTICALS IN JAPAN......Page 671
COSMECEUTICALS IN THE FUTURE......Page 672
REFERENCES......Page 673
Index......Page 676
Back cover......Page 698