Clothing Alterations and Repairs: Maintaining a Sustainable Wardrobe

Cover
CONTENTS
Preface
Introduction
1 How to Use This Book and Tools of the Trade
	How to Use This Book
	Clothing Alterations
	Repairs
	Tools of the Trade
2 Working With Alterations, Repairs, and Clients
	Before You Get Started
	Step One: Organizing Your Space
	Step Two: The Logistics of Clothing Alterations and Repairs
	Finding the Problem
	Step Three: Working With Clients
	Identifying Fabric
3 Bottom Hems
	Shortening
	Serge and Blind Hem: Three Methods
	Twice Turn Hem
	Cadet Cut Hem
	Knitwear Coverstitch Hem
	Knitwear Faux Coverstitch Using a Twin Needle
	Twice-Turned Hem on Eveningwear and Formalwear
	Napkin Roll Hem
	Hand Stitch Hems: Cross Stitch, Vertical Hem Stitch, Prick/Pick Stitch
	Lengthening Bottom Hems
	Maxing Out
	Bias Tape
	Adding Fabric
	Adding Lace
4 Top Hems
	Shortening
	Knitwear Coverstitch
	Knitwear Faux Coverstitch Using a Twin Needle
	Shirttail Hem
	Lined Suit Jacket Hem
	Unlined Suit Jacket Hem
	Lengthening
	Lengthening Suit Jacket Hem
5 Taking In Bottoms
	Back Gap
	Waistbands: Using Elastic
	Side Seams/Outseams and Inseam Tips
	Side Seams/Outseams
	Inseams
	Darts/Pleats/Tucks
	Ease/Gathers
	Taking in a Skirt or Pant with a Side Zipper
6 Letting Out Bottoms
	Side Seams
	Inseams
	Waistbands: Using Seam Allowance, Elastic, or Gussets
	Waistbands: Using Seam Allowance
	Waistbands: Using Elastic
	Waistbands: Using Gussets/Fabric Panels
7 Jeans
	Taking In the Center Back/Back Gap
	Jeans Hem With Option to Distress
	Original Jeans Hem
	Taking In the Outseams/Inseams
8 Taking In Tops
	Side Seams
	Princess Seams/Darts on Front Top
	Princess Seams/Darts on Back Top
	Pleats/Tucks
	Boned Bodices in Formalwear
9 Letting Out Tops
	Side Seams
	Panels
	Boned Bodices in Formalwear
10 Sleeves, Shoulders, and Armscyes
	When to Say “No!”
	Taking Up Shoulders
	Taking In Sleeves or Sleeves and Side Seams
	Lined Suit Jacket Sleeve Hems
	Button Down Shirt Cuffs and Plackets
11 Crotch Seams
	How to Measure Crotch Seams
	Taking In Crotch Seams
	Letting Out Crotch Seams
	Adding Gussets
12 Necklines and Collars
	Collar/Neckline Types
	Reshaping Necklines
	Collar Adjustments
13 Repairs
	Buttons
	Decorative Patches/Visible Mending
	Darning
	Zippers
	Linings
	Replacing or Rethreading Drawstrings
	Hook and Loop Tape
	Outdoor/Other Gear
	Waterproof Gear
Resources
Glossary
Acknowledgements
Index