Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design (The Textile Institute Book Series)

Front Cover......Page 1
Anthropometry, Apparel Sizing and Design......Page 4
Copyright......Page 5
Contents......Page 6
Contributors......Page 12
Part One: Anthropometry and garment sizing systems......Page 14
  1.1. Introduction......Page 16
   1.2.1. Development in body scanning devices......Page 18
   1.2.2. Applications of 3-D body scanning......Page 21
    1.2.3.2. Definition......Page 23
    1.2.3.4. Estimation of air volume and ease......Page 25
    1.2.4.3. Standardized data repositories......Page 26
  1.3. Anthropometric data analysis and output......Page 27
  1.4. Patternmaking......Page 29
   1.4.2. Technological advances in the field of patternmaking......Page 30
   1.4.3. Applications of advanced patternmaking technologies......Page 31
  1.5. Fit......Page 33
  1.6. Conclusions......Page 35
  References......Page 36
  Further reading......Page 39
  2.1. Introduction......Page 42
   2.2.1. Basic postures......Page 43
   2.2.2. Measuring instruments......Page 44
   2.2.5. Measurement errors......Page 46
   2.3.1. Basics of 3-D measurement......Page 48
   2.3.2. Scanning posture......Page 49
   2.3.4. Comparability of scan-derived and traditional 1-D measurements......Page 52
   2.3.5. Accuracy of scan-derived 3-D measurements......Page 54
  2.4. International standards related to anthropometric methods......Page 56
   2.4.2. ISO 15535 and how to eliminate irregular values......Page 57
   2.5.2. Posture and measurement attire......Page 61
    2.5.4.1. Back neck point (Cervicale)......Page 62
    2.5.5.1. Acromion, shoulder point, and shoulder line......Page 63
    2.5.5.3. Armpit back fold point......Page 64
    2.5.6.2. Natural waist girth......Page 65
  2.6. Future trends......Page 66
  2.7. Sources of further information and advice......Page 67
  References......Page 68
  Further reading......Page 69
  3.2. A global context......Page 70
  3.3. Importance and significance of national size and shape surveys......Page 73
   3.3.2. Academia......Page 74
   3.3.3. Apparel industry: Size and shape......Page 77
  3.4. Planning a national anthropometric survey for clothing......Page 79
    3.4.1.3. Survey funding......Page 80
   3.4.2. Preparation......Page 81
    3.4.2.3. Life style questionnaire......Page 82
    3.4.2.4. Anthropometric measurement set and postures......Page 83
    3.4.2.5. Equipment benchmarking, selection, and purchase......Page 84
    3.4.2.6. Statistics......Page 85
    3.4.2.8. Proofing survey......Page 86
    3.4.2.9. Selection of data collection team and training......Page 87
    3.4.3.2. Scheduling......Page 88
    3.4.3.5. Data tracking......Page 89
    3.4.4.1. National database......Page 90
     iSize: Clothing and technological dimensional portal......Page 92
  3.5. Reflection......Page 93
    3.5.2.2. Funding......Page 94
    3.5.2.6. Data sales......Page 95
  3.6. Future trends......Page 96
  References......Page 97
  Further reading/viewing......Page 102
  4.1. Introduction: The body sizing system......Page 104
   4.1.2. Size and fit......Page 105
  4.2. Sizing system development and methodology......Page 106
    4.2.1.1. Paperwork......Page 107
    4.2.1.3. Anthropometric measurement protocols......Page 108
    4.2.2.2. Sample size determination......Page 110
    4.2.3.2. Data screening......Page 112
   4.2.5. Step 5: Multivariate analysis......Page 113
   4.2.9. Step 9: Size system development......Page 114
   4.3.2. Growth distribution of female......Page 115
  4.4. Key dimensions and control dimensions identification using multivariate data techniques......Page 116
   4.4.2. Principal component analysis (PCA)......Page 117
   4.4.3. The results of components analysis......Page 118
    4.4.4.1. Female samples (age 13-17)......Page 120
   4.4.5. Identifying key dimensions......Page 121
   4.5.1. Female sample size (13-17years old): Clustering for upper body......Page 123
  4.6. Decision tree analysis......Page 124
   4.7.1. Female sizing system 13-17years old for upper body garments......Page 125
   4.7.2. Female size validation 13-17years old for upper body......Page 127
  4.9. Future trends......Page 129
   4.9.1. The importance of fit and sizing system......Page 130
  4.10. Sources of further information and advice......Page 131
  References......Page 132
  Further reading......Page 134
  5.2. The importance of size designations......Page 136
   5.2.2. Size designation according to the identification numbers in catalogs......Page 137
   5.2.3. The need for size designation for ready-to-wear clothing......Page 138
    5.2.4.1. Development of size designations......Page 139
   5.2.5. Canadian General Standards Board (CGSB)......Page 141
   5.2.7. Updated anthropometric data......Page 142
  5.3. The key elements for an international size designation......Page 143
   5.3.1. Clustering according to similar height, size, and shape......Page 144
    5.3.1.2. Difference in girth measurements according to ethnicity and age groups......Page 146
   5.3.2. Summarizing the key elements......Page 149
   5.4.1. A parallel with the apparel industry......Page 151
   5.4.3. Benefits of a uniform size designation......Page 152
  References......Page 153
  Further reading......Page 154
Part Two: Body measurement devices and techniques......Page 156
  6.1. Introduction......Page 158
   6.2.1. Early scanners......Page 159
   6.2.2. Use of 3-D body scans and data from scans in apparel studies......Page 163
  6.3. Different technologies used in full-body scanners......Page 164
   6.4.2. Scan time......Page 166
   6.4.3. Posture, scanning apparel, and hair issues in scanning......Page 167
  6.5. Reliability of scan generation from sensor views......Page 169
  6.6. Automatic landmarking and data extraction software......Page 171
  6.7. How to assess scanner technologies for various end uses......Page 174
  6.8. Expanding the repertoire of measurements taken to make use of new concepts in the relationship of bodies to clothes......Page 176
  6.9. Scans as avatars for fit analysis......Page 177
  6.10. Future trends......Page 178
  References......Page 179
  7.1. Introduction......Page 182
  7.2. Functional measurements......Page 183
   7.2.2. Distinction between standard measurements, functional measurements, and ergonomic measurements......Page 185
    7.2.3.1. Landmarking......Page 186
    7.2.3.2. Posture......Page 187
    7.2.3.3. Recording of the movement-oriented positions......Page 189
    7.2.3.4. Dimensions......Page 190
   7.2.4. Analysis of the functional measurements......Page 192
    7.2.5.1. Structure of the functional measurement tables......Page 194
    7.2.5.3. Individual variation of positions......Page 196
    7.2.5.4. Muscular influences on the body geometry......Page 198
  7.3. Examinations of mobility restrictions caused by clothing......Page 199
   7.3.1. Mobility restrictions caused by clothing......Page 201
   7.3.2. Methods to analyze the human-garment interface......Page 203
  7.4. Dynamic recording of body surfaces......Page 205
  7.5. Conclusion and future trends......Page 206
  References......Page 208
  Further reading......Page 212
Part Three: Testing and evaluation of fit......Page 214
   8.1.1. Body-contouring jeans......Page 216
    8.2.1.2. Seam strength test......Page 217
    8.2.1.4. Seam strength test......Page 218
  8.3. Results of the tensile strength test......Page 219
  8.5. Design implementation and development......Page 220
   8.6.1. Respondent 01 in size M having wide rear area......Page 224
   8.6.3. Respondent 03 in size S having pear body shape......Page 226
  8.7. Conclusion and implications......Page 227
  Further reading......Page 228
  9.1. Introduction......Page 230
  9.2. Approaches to fit criteria......Page 231
  9.3. Indicators of fit and balance......Page 233
   9.4.1. Kinds of ease......Page 234
   9.4.2. Ease in shoulder clothes......Page 238
   9.4.4. Ease allowance in the second part of the 20th century to the beginning of the 21st century......Page 241
   9.4.5. Ease calculation from pattern block......Page 244
  9.5. Indicators of balance......Page 246
   9.5.1. Indicators of bearing balance......Page 250
   9.5.2. Indicators of longitudinal balance......Page 251
   9.5.3. Transverse (latitudinal) balance......Page 255
   9.5.4. Angle balance......Page 259
  9.6. Future trends......Page 262
  References......Page 263
Part Four: Designing for specific functions......Page 266
  10.1. Introduction......Page 268
  10.2. Swimsuits for different purposes......Page 269
   10.2.1. Materials and fabrics for swimsuits......Page 270
   10.3.1. Scuba diving suits-Diving with oxygen tanks......Page 271
   10.3.2. Spearfishing suits-Diving with underwater rifle......Page 272
  10.4. Modern anthropometry approach......Page 273
   10.4.1. 3D scanning and body model processing-Vitus smart 3D laser scanner......Page 274
   10.4.2. Static body analysis......Page 277
   10.4.3. Dynamic body analysis......Page 279
   10.5.1. Virtual mannequins as design and construction templates......Page 281
   10.5.2. 3D construction of diving suits and 2D pattern flattening......Page 284
   10.5.3. 3D simulation of 2D patterns......Page 286
   10.6.1. Virtual prototype testing......Page 290
   10.6.2. Physical prototype testing......Page 294
  10.7. Future trends......Page 297
  References......Page 299
  11.1. Introduction......Page 302
   11.2.1. Types of PPE......Page 304
   11.2.2. Necessity of well-fitted PPE......Page 305
  11.3. Anthropometrics for protective clothing......Page 307
   11.3.1. Traditional anthropometry and databases......Page 308
   11.3.2. User population characteristics......Page 309
   11.3.3. Dynamic anthropometry......Page 311
   11.3.4. Sizing for protective clothing......Page 314
   11.3.5. Usage of 3D scanning and virtual prototyping......Page 315
   11.4.1. Ease allowances......Page 317
   11.4.3. Design solutions......Page 318
   11.4.4. Adjustment solutions......Page 319
  11.5. Fabric parameters affecting the fit......Page 320
   11.5.2. Clothing layer interactions......Page 321
  11.6. Test of PPE conformity......Page 323
  Assessment points:......Page 324
   11.6.2. Investigation of mobility......Page 326
  References......Page 327
  Further reading......Page 329
  12.1. Introduction......Page 330
   12.2.1. The specification of an INFOOT scanner......Page 331
  12.3. Participants......Page 332
   12.3.1. The significance of 3-D shoe anthropometric data for the development of shoe sizing......Page 333
   12.3.3. Preparation and procedure of the used of 3-D INFOOT scanner......Page 334
   12.4.1. Comparison FL, FB, and BG for three ethnic groups......Page 337
   12.4.2. Result in ANOVA and post hoc test for three foot dimension......Page 339
  12.6. Future trend of shoe sizing......Page 340
  References......Page 342
  13.1. Introduction......Page 344
  13.2. Brief history of pressure garments......Page 345
  13.3. Classification of pressure garments......Page 346
   13.3.2. Pressure comfort......Page 348
   13.3.3. Body soft parts reshape/change range or value......Page 350
   13.3.4. Pressure sensors......Page 351
   13.3.5. Expert evaluation......Page 353
  13.4. Materials for pressure garments......Page 354
   13.5.1. Garment labeling......Page 358
   13.5.2. 2D design of pressure garments......Page 368
  13.7. 3D design of pressure garments......Page 370
  13.8. Future trends......Page 375
  13.9. Sources of further information and advice......Page 376
  References......Page 377
  14.2. The importance of sizing systems for plus-size men and women......Page 384
  14.3. Realization of the sizing surveys for plus sizes......Page 387
   14.4.1. Fundamentals of the sizing chart......Page 390
   14.4.2. Classification of men´s and women´s outerwear......Page 391
    14.4.2.2. Size system of men´s outerwear......Page 392
     Body height classification-Men......Page 394
   14.4.3. Definition of target group-specific measurements......Page 396
   14.4.4. Definition of morphotypes......Page 401
  14.5. Generation of virtual 3-D body models......Page 402
   14.6.1. Plus-size women´s outerwear......Page 403
   14.6.2. Plus-size men´s outerwear......Page 404
    14.7.1.1. Size charts: ``Plus-size women´´......Page 405
    14.7.2.1. Morphotypes-Plus-size women......Page 407
    14.7.2.2. Morphotypes-Plus-size men......Page 410
    14.7.3.1. Representative 3-D body models-Women......Page 411
   14.7.4. Basic patterns for jackets and pants......Page 412
    14.7.4.2. Men´s basic patterns......Page 414
  14.8. Conclusions......Page 416
  14.10. Source of further information and advice......Page 417
  References......Page 418
Index......Page 420
Back Cover......Page 428