The Wilder Shores of Gastronomy: 20 Years of the Best Food Writing from the Journal Petits Propos Culinaires

Contents (v)......Page 7
Acknowledgments (ix)......Page 11
Announcement (x)......Page 12
Foreword (xi)......Page 13
Introduction (1)......Page 15
1. Scoops and Distant Beachheads (11)......Page 25
Red Peppercorns—What They Really Are (13)......Page 27
Manifold Absurdity (21)......Page 35
A Spicy Mystery (27)......Page 41
A Spicy Mystery, Part Two (39)......Page 53
A Spicy Mystery, Part Three (45)......Page 59
Among the Yoruba Mushroom-Eaters (50)......Page 64
Summer Pudding (59)......Page 73
Het of Atworth's Purple Mountain (65)......Page 79
Chicken Yassa (72)......Page 86
'The Ultimate Anchovy' and Tea Soup (76)......Page 90
What Was the Old Woman Doing? (81)......Page 95
2. Culinary History (85)......Page 98
An Experiment in Bronze Age Cooking (87)......Page 100
Early Arab Cooking and Cookery Manuscripts (96)......Page 109
The Saracen Connection: Arab Cuisine and the Mediaeval West (109)......Page 122
On Swans, Cranes and Herons (109)......Page 132
Historic Kitchen Restoration: The Example of Ham House (129)......Page 142
Yule-Doos, Pop-Ladies and Pig-Hogs (139)......Page 152
Curry Rice: Gaijin Gold (160)......Page 173
3. On Your Plate (169)......Page 181
Do You Know Skyr? (172)......Page 184
Long Pepper: A Short History (177)......Page 189
Tuscan Cold Pressed Extra Virgin Olive Oil (180)......Page 192
The Nut Oils of Berry (185)......Page 197
Mad, Bad, Despised and Dangerous (189)......Page 201
Snail Trails (196)......Page 208
Les Galettes des Rois: The Eating of Fine Art (207)......Page 219
El Arte del Tapeo (217)......Page 229
The Norwegian Porridge Feud (227)......Page 239
Encounters with the Elusive Stockfish (239)......Page 251
The Denby Dale Pie (245)......Page 257
On Long-Cooked Eggs (250)......Page 262
The Legacy of Western Camas (255)......Page 267
4. Books and Cooks (261)......Page 272
Breakfast with Jane Austen (265)......Page 276
Chekhov and Food (270)......Page 281
Tournedos Rossini (275)......Page 286
Of Food, Prejudice and Discovery (280)......Page 291
The Wedding Feast of Caranus the Macedonian by Hippolochus (288)......Page 299
Elizabeth David, 1913–1992 (298)......Page 309
M F K Fisher, 1908–1992 (303)......Page 314
From Quarter-Deck to Cooking Pot (305)......Page 316
Mae Khloa Hoa Paa (311)......Page 322
Jane Grigson: A Celebration in Three Parts (327)......Page 338
Quizzing Glasse (333)......Page 344
5. Exotica (355)......Page 364
A Nuanced Apology to Rotted Barley (358)......Page 367
A Dubious Competition (363)......Page 372
Hell upon Earth (373)......Page 382
Viper Soup, Viper Broth, Viper Wine (375)......Page 384
A Rattle in the Throat: The Unmentionable Cuisine (379)......Page 388
The Subject of Worms (383)......Page 392
Army Worms (388)......Page 397
'Snails', 'Caterpillars' and 'Worms' (393)......Page 402
Elder: 'A Good Udder to Dinner' (403)......Page 412
Feasts of Raw Meat (410)......Page 419
'Wah-to-Yah' : A Teenager's Reports about Foodon the Taos Trail, 1846–7 (417)......Page 426
The Mushroom-Growing Termites of Uganda (422)......Page 431
The Candle-Scented Cakes and Sweets of Thailand (429)......Page 438
6. Recipes (435)......Page 443
Aubergine Gratin (436)......Page 444
Kibbeh Nayyeh (438)......Page 446
Mole Poblano and Turkey (440)......Page 448
In Pescod Time ... I Went to Gather Strawberries (445)......Page 453
To Make Strawberry Jam (449)......Page 457
A Mussel-Feast in the Charente-Maritime (451)......Page 459
Elderflower (453)......Page 461
Filets de Sole à La Marguery (457)......Page 465
Kulich (460)......Page 468
'Aubergines Dursun' (463)......Page 471
Photographer's Cheesecake (466)......Page 474
Cocido (472)......Page 480
Saunders (474)......Page 482
7. Notes and Queries (477)......Page 484
Pineapple Tart (499)......Page 505
Index of Articles (500)......Page 506