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ویرایش: 3
نویسندگان: Marc Dubin
سری: Rough Guide
ISBN (شابک) : 1858288835, 9781858288833
ناشر: Rough Guides
سال نشر: 2002
تعداد صفحات: 568
زبان: English
فرمت فایل : PDF (درصورت درخواست کاربر به PDF، EPUB یا AZW3 تبدیل می شود)
حجم فایل: 338 مگابایت
در صورت تبدیل فایل کتاب The Rough Guide to the Dodecanese and the East Aegean Islands به فرمت های PDF، EPUB، AZW3، MOBI و یا DJVU می توانید به پشتیبان اطلاع دهید تا فایل مورد نظر را تبدیل نمایند.
توجه داشته باشید کتاب راهنمای تقریبی جزایر دودکانیز و شرق دریای اژه نسخه زبان اصلی می باشد و کتاب ترجمه شده به فارسی نمی باشد. وبسایت اینترنشنال لایبرری ارائه دهنده کتاب های زبان اصلی می باشد و هیچ گونه کتاب ترجمه شده یا نوشته شده به فارسی را ارائه نمی دهد.
مجمع الجزایر دودکانیز دورافتاده ترین قلمرو دولت مدرن یونان را تشکیل می دهد که تا 250 مایل دریایی از آتن فاصله دارد. همه اینها به ترکیه نزدیکتر از سرزمین اصلی یونان است. در واقع، این جزایر پراکنده تنها از سال 1948 بخشی از یونان بودهاند، که نشاندهنده آخرین مرحله موفق مگالی ایدئا، یک کارزار یک قرنی برای بازپس گیری سرزمینهای یونانی تاریخی است. ملی گرایان یونانی پس از سال 1908 به این جزایر به عنوان Dhohánisos (دوازده جزیره) اشاره کردند، اگرچه در واقع چهارده جزیره مسکونی اصلی و چهار جزیره کوچک مسکونی در این گروه به اضافه 9 جزیره بزرگ و کوچک دیگر وجود دارد که جزایر شمال شرقی دریای اژه را تشکیل می دهند. ، بخشی از یونان از سال 1912. حتی در حال حاضر پایگاه های نظامی متعدد و ایستگاه های مراقبت کوچکتر با تهدید (واقعی یا خیالی) تهاجم ترکیه مقابله می کنند. علیرغم روابط غیرنظامی در سطح بالا که در سال های اخیر بین یونان و ترکیه صورت گرفته است، نیروهای مسلح یونان به وضوح ترجیح می دهند پودر خود را خشک نگه دارند.
این سنگهای پله در مسیر خاورمیانه یا آناتولی همیشه برای تهاجم و اشغال بودهاند: آنقدر غنی و استراتژیک هستند که نمیتوان آنها را نادیده گرفت، اما هرگز آنقدر قدرتمند نبود که بتوانند بر خودشان حکومت کنند. رومیها، بیزانسیها، شوالیههای صلیبی سنت جان، ژنوئیها، ونیزیها، عثمانیها و ایتالیاییها برای دورههای مختلف این جزایر را از زمان اسکندر مقدونی کنترل کردهاند. سختیهای این مشاغل هرچه که باشد، میراث آنها شامل ترکیبی شگفتانگیز از سبکها و فرهنگهای معماری است: کلیساهای بیزانسی نقاشیشده و صومعههای مستحکم، قلعههای جنوا و شوالیههای سنت جان، مساجد عثمانی و ساختمانهای باشکوه آرت دکو ایتالیا. چنین بناهایی اغلب در کنار (یا حتی بر روی) شهرها و معابد یونان باستان قرار می گیرند که پایه و اساس ادعای هویت یونانی ماندگار در طول قرن ها را فراهم می کنند. موزهها، بهویژه در ساموس، رودس و لیمنوس، شواهد باستانشناسی را بهشدت مستند میکنند.
اما این دهقانان، ماهیگیران و چوپانان یونانی قرون وسطایی بودند که بدون طبقه حاکم بومی یا رنسانس رسمی برای تحمیل مدلهای ذوق یا حمایت از هنرها کار میکردند که بهطور ملموستر و اخیراً به ایده یونانی بودن ما کمک کردند. آوازها و رقص ها، لباس ها، بافندگی و معماری بومی که برخی ناخودآگاه از پیشینیان باستانی استفاده می کنند. بسیاری از این موارد در دهههای اخیر در زیر بهمنی از کاستهای ساز بوزوکی، «نسخههای موزهای اصیل» و کارتپستالهای بداخلاق در غرفههای سوغاتی ناپدید شدهاند، اما به اندازهای در جیبهای مجزا باقی مانده است تا بازدیدکنندگان از ترکیب فرم و عملکرد آن شگفت زده شوند. در واقع، تنها در دو جزیرهای که در این راهنما گنجانده شدهاند، رودس و کوس، ویژگیهای محلی توسط گردشگری مشخص میشود، و حتی در اینجا زندگی سنتی همچنان ادامه دارد.
بیشتر بازدیدکنندگان عمدتاً برای سرگرمیهای لذتپرستانه میآیند تا فعالیتهای فرهنگی: رفتن با لباسهای سبک حتی روی اسکوتر، شنا در آبهای ملایم هنگام غروب، صحبت کردن و نوشیدن زیر ستارهها تا ساعت ۳ صبح. چنین لذتهایی به میزان زیادی ضعفهای پایدار در \"محصول\" گردشگری یونان را جبران میکند: انتظار تشکهای ارتوپدی، لولهکشی پیشرفته، غذاهای Cordon-Bleu یا خدمات غیرمستقیم را نداشته باشید. به جز در تعداد محدودی از امکانات لوکس، اتاق ها می توانند جعبه مانند باشند و غذا در بهترین حالت تازه و ساده ارائه می شود.
اما آنچه که بیش از همه تحت تأثیر قرار میدهد این است که چگونه، علیرغم تلاشهای شدید توسعهدهندگان، آتشافروزان و زبالهدانها، محیط دریای اژه هنوز کاملاً نابود نشده است. دودکانیز و شرق دریای اژه که در زمان مناسبی از روز یا سال دیده میشوند، بهطور قابلتوجهی با تصویر پوستر توریستی خود از جزایر و دماغههای سایهدار بنفش، که در افق کبالت و گل رز شناور هستند، مطابقت دارد. سواحل جزیره از هلال های محرمانه ای که با صخره های حاشیه درختان قاب گرفته شده اند تا هدایای متروکه و متروکه ای که توسط جویبارهای کوچک و پشتوانه تپه های شنی وحشی قرار گرفته اند، متفاوت است که برای اجرای فانتزی های کروزوئه ایده آل است. اما در داخل کشور همیشه تمدن وجود دارد، خواه روستاهای کوچک کوبیست پستهای دورافتاده، یا استراحتگاههای رو به رشد بهعنوان جهانوطنی و بیرحمانه در دریای مدیترانه.
اگر به آبهای تیره دریای باز مدیترانه در اسپانیا، فرانسه یا اسرائیل عادت دارید، دریای اژه به عنوان یک مکاشفه ظاهر خواهد شد، با دید 40 فوتی معمول، و همه گونه موجودات دریایی قابل مشاهده است. ، از ستاره های دریایی و اختاپی در پایین تا دسته های وسیع ماهی. دریا در اینجا همچنین بهشت ورزشهای آبی است: لذت غواصی و کایاکسواری برای تازهکاران ارائه میشود و برخی از بهترین مناطق موجسواری در جهان به شما اشاره میکنند. اجاره قایق بادبانی، چه با قایق برهنه و چه با قایق، تجارت بزرگی است، به ویژه خارج از رودس و کالینوس. تنها دریای کارائیب میتواند با دودکانیز رقابت کند. و در طول ماههایی که دریا خیلی سرد است یا آب و هوای بسیار تند و تیز دارد، بسیاری از جزایر پیادهروی فوقالعادهای را در مسیرهای خر باقیمانده بین دهکدههای تپهها یا بالاترین قلهها ارائه میدهند.
The Dodecanese archipelago forms the remotest territory of the modern Greek state, up to 250 nautical miles from Athens. All of it is closer to Turkey than mainland Greece, a fact not lost on either country; indeed these scattered islands have only been part of Greece since 1948, representing the last successful phase of the Megáli Idhéa, a century-long campaign to reclaim historically Greek territories. Greek nationalists began referring to the islands as the Dhodhekánisos (Twelve Islands) after 1908, though in fact there are fourteen major and four minor inhabited isles in the group, plus nine more, large and small, which make up the more northerly east Aegean islands, part of Greece since 1912. Even now numerous military bases and smaller watch-points counter the threat (real or imagined) of invasion from Turkey. Despite the high-level civilian rapprochements which have taken place between Greece and Turkey in recent years, the Greek armed forces clearly prefer to keep their powder dry.
These stepping stones en route to the Middle East or Anatolia have always been fated for invasion and occupation: too rich and strategic to be ignored, but never powerful enough to rule themselves. Romans, Byzantines, crusading Knights of St John, Genoese, Venetians, Ottomans and Italians have for varying periods controlled these islands since the time of Alexander the Great. Whatever the rigours of these occupations, their legacy includes a wonderful blend of architectural styles and cultures: frescoed Byzantine churches and fortified monasteries, castles of the Genoese and Knights of St John, Ottoman mosques and grandiose Italian Art Deco buildings. Such monuments are often juxtaposed with (or even rest upon) ancient Greek cities and temples that provide the foundation for claims of an enduring Hellenic identity down the centuries; museums, particularly on Sámos, Rhodes and Límnos, amply document the archeological evidence.
But it was medieval Greek peasants, fishermen and shepherds, working without an indigenous ruling class or formal Renaissance to impose models of taste or patronize the arts, who most tangibly and recently contributed to our idea of Greekness with their songs and dances, costumes, weaving and vernacular architecture, some unconsciously drawing on ancient antecedents. Much of this has vanished in recent decades under an avalanche of bouzoúki-instrumental cassettes, "genuine museum copies" and bawdy postcards at souvenir stalls, but enough remains in isolated pockets for visitors to marvel at its combination of form and function. Indeed, only on two islands included in this guide Rhodes and Kós has local character come to be determined by tourism, and even here pockets of traditional life persist.
Most visitors come primarily for hedonistic rather than cultural pursuits: going lightly dressed even on a scooter, swimming in balmy waters at dusk, talking and drinking under the stars until 3am. Such pleasures amply compensate for certain enduring weaknesses in the Greek tourism "product": dont expect orthopedic mattresses, state-of-the-art plumbing, Cordon-Bleu cuisine or obsequious service. Except at a limited number of upmarket facilities, rooms can be box-like, and the food at its best is fresh and simply presented.
But what impresses most is how, despite the strenuous efforts of developers, arsonists and rubbish-dumpers, the Aegean environment has not yet been utterly destroyed. Seen at the right time of day or year, the Dodecanese and east Aegean conform remarkably well to their tourist-board poster image of purple-shadowed islands and promontories, floating on a cobalt-and-rose horizon. Island beaches vary from discreet crescents framed by tree-fringed cliffs to deserted, mile-long gifts deposited by small streams and backed by wild dunes, ideal for enacting Crusoe fantasies. But inland there is always civilization, whether the tiny cubist villages of the remoter outposts, or burgeoning resorts as cosmopolitan and brash as any in the Mediterranean.
If youre used to the murky waters of the open Mediterranean in Spain, France or Israel, the Aegean will come as a revelation, with forty-foot visibility the norm, and all manner of sea creatures visible, from starfish and octopi on the bottom to vast schools of fish. The sea here is also a water-sports paradise: the joys of snorkelling and kayaking are on offer to novices, and some of the best windsurfing areas in the world beckon. Yacht charter, whether bare-boat or skippered, is big business, particularly out of Rhodes and Kálymnos; only the Caribbean can rival the Dodecanese for interest. And during the months when the sea is too cold or the weather too blustery, many islands offer superb hiking on surviving donkey-trails between hill villages, or up the highest summits.
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