The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind

Contents......Page 6
Preface......Page 8
1 Introduction......Page 10
2 The energy balance of deep-water ocean waves......Page 16
2.1 Preliminaries......Page 17
2.2 Linear theory......Page 22
2.3 Wave groups......Page 25
2.4 The energy balance equation......Page 31
2.5 Kinematic part of the energy balance equation......Page 36
2.6 Empirical laws for wave growth......Page 41
2.7 Summary of results......Page 63
3 On the generation of ocean waves by wind......Page 65
3.1 Linear theory of wind-wave generation......Page 70
3.2 Numerical solution and comparison with observations......Page 77
3.3 Effects of turbulence......Page 83
3.4 Quasi-linear theory of wind-wave generation......Page 98
3.5 Parametrization of quasi-linear theory......Page 129
3.6 Summary of conclusions......Page 136
4 Nonlinear wave–wave interactions and wave dissipation......Page 138
4.1 Evolution equation for deep-water waves derived from a Hamiltonian......Page 140
4.2 Finite-amplitude effects on the dispersion relation and the instability of finite-amplitud deep-water waves......Page 149
4.3 Nonlinear Schrodinger¨ equation and long-time behaviour of the Benjamin–Feir instability......Page 155
4.4 Beyond the Zakharov equation: fie-wave interactions......Page 165
4.5 Statistical approach to nonlinear interactions......Page 168
4.6 Discussion of the assumptions underlying the statistical approach......Page 180
4.7 Consequences of four-wave interactions......Page 192
4.8 Parametrization of nonlinear transfer......Page 203
4.9 Wave dissipation......Page 207
4.10 Summary of conclusions......Page 213
4.11 Appendix: nonlinear transfer coefficient......Page 215
5 Wave forecasting and wind–wave interaction......Page 218
5.1 Numerical implementation of the energy balance equation......Page 221
5.2 Simulation of simple cases......Page 233
5.3 Impact of sea state on the atmosphere......Page 241
5.4 Impact of sea state on the ocean circulation......Page 254
5.5 Verificatio of analysis and forecast......Page 262
5.6 Summary of conclusions......Page 283
References......Page 287
Index......Page 302