The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting

Cover......Page 2
Title Page......Page 3
Contents......Page 4
Introduction......Page 15
Laying the Foundation......Page 19
Developing a Solid Approach to Fitting......Page 21
Why Fitting is Complicated......Page 23
Each Individual is Unique......Page 25
Pattern and Fitting Basics......Page 28
How Patterns are Developed......Page 29
Finding your way Around a Pattern......Page 31
Garment Silhouettes and Ease......Page 38
Choosing a Pattern Size......Page 48
Tools for Pattern Work and Fitting......Page 68
The Interrelationship Between Patterns and Fitting......Page 77
Overview of the Fitting Process......Page 79
Recognizing Fitting Issues......Page 83
A Framework for Fitting......Page 100
The Fitting Axis......Page 101
The Horizontal Balance Line......Page 105
Learning to Look......Page 126
The Body as “Volume”......Page 130
Fitting Others and Yourself......Page 132
What to Wear for a Fitting......Page 145
Preparing the Test Muslin for a Fitting......Page 150
Clipping and Marking During a Fitting......Page 169
Pinning......Page 191
Keeping the Muslin Balanced......Page 202
Fitting Order......Page 205
Fitting Tips......Page 208
Assessing the Fit......Page 214
Glossary of Patternmaking Terms......Page 221
Making Flat Pattern Adjustments......Page 228
Transferring Muslin Markings to the Pattern......Page 235
Blending Seams, Using the Rulers, and Adding Seam Allowances......Page 247
Lengthening and Shortening Patterns, and Grainline Arrows......Page 280
Walking and Truing a Pattern......Page 331
Placing and Creating Notches......Page 349
Controlling Patterns with Built-in Ease......Page 356
Truing Difficult Seams......Page 366
Moving the Placement of a Seam......Page 385
Moving a Dart to a New Location......Page 406
Truing Dart Legs......Page 413
Scaling Patterns Up and Down......Page 422
Working in an Efficient Order......Page 424
Developing your Ability......Page 428
The Process of Fitting Garments......Page 430
Skirt......Page 433
Bodice with Darts......Page 474
Bodice with Shoulder Princess Line......Page 536
Jacket with Side Panel with Set-in Sleeve......Page 568
Tunic with Armscye Princess Line......Page 633
Bodice with Raglan Sleeve......Page 678
Fitting Solutions for Body Types and Related Pattern Alterations......Page 729
Bust......Page 738
Back......Page 920
Sides......Page 1025
Shoulder Line and Neck......Page 1043
Set-in Sleeves......Page 1067
Raglan Sleeves......Page 1130
Waist and Hips......Page 1161
Fitting Pants......Page 1196
Understanding Body Mass and Pants Volume......Page 1201
Fine-tuning the Fit......Page 1214
The Process of Fitting Pants......Page 1222
Body Type Examples......Page 1251
Typical Pants Pattern Alterations......Page 1298
Going to the Next Level......Page 1313
Correcting Pattern Elements Affected by Fitting Changes......Page 1315
Waistbands......Page 1316
Facings......Page 1318
Collars......Page 1323
Linings......Page 1334
Get Creative......Page 1345
Using Style Lines to Create Pleasing Proportions......Page 1346
Dart Equivalents......Page 1360
Collar Variations......Page 1361
Cuffs and Sleeve Hems......Page 1366
About the Author......Page 1370
Index......Page 1374
Dedication......Page 1393
Acknowledgments......Page 1394
Copyright Page......Page 1396