The Coloration of Wool and Other Keratin Fibres

Cover
......Page 1
The Coloration of Wool and other Keratin Fibres......Page 3
Full Title
......Page 5
Copyright Page
......Page 6
Contents......Page 7
List of Contributors......Page 15
Society of Dyers and Colourists......Page 17
Preface......Page 19
1.1 Introduction......Page 21
1.2 Composition of Wool......Page 22
1.3.1 General Chemical Structure of Proteins......Page 25
1.3.2 Amino Acid Composition of Wool......Page 26
1.3.3 Arrangement of Amino Acids in Wool......Page 28
1.3.4 The Structure of Wool Proteins......Page 31
1.3.5 Wool Lipids......Page 33
1.4 Morphological Structure of Wool......Page 34
1.4.1 The Cuticle and the Fibre Surface......Page 36
1.4.2 The Cortex......Page 43
1.4.3 The Cell Membrane Complex......Page 47
1.6 Damage in Wool Dyeing......Page 52
1.6.1 Nonkeratinous Proteins and Damage in Dyeing......Page 53
1.6.2 Influence of Dyebath pH on Fibre Damage......Page 54
References......Page 55
2.2 The Chemical Basis for Wool Dyeing......Page 63
2.2.2 The Amphoteric Nature of Wool and Dyeing Behaviour......Page 64
2.2.3 Classical Theories of Wool Dyeing......Page 66
2.2.4 Modern Theories of Wool Dyeing......Page 69
2.3 Standard Affinity and Heat of Dyeing......Page 70
2.4 Classification of Dyes Used for Wool......Page 72
2.5 Dye Aggregation......Page 75
2.6.1 Diffusion of Dyes......Page 80
2.6.2 Pathways of Dye Diffusion into Wool......Page 81
2.7.1 Chlorination......Page 86
2.7.2 Plasma Treatment......Page 87
2.8 Conclusion......Page 88
References......Page 89
3.1 Introduction......Page 95
3.2.1 Anionic Auxiliaries......Page 96
3.2.2 Cationic Auxiliaries......Page 97
3.2.3 Ethoxylated Nonionic and Cationic Auxiliaries......Page 98
3.2.4 Amphoteric Auxiliaries......Page 100
3.3 Brightening Agents......Page 101
3.4 Levelling Agents......Page 102
3.4.2 Dyeing and Processing Faults......Page 103
3.4.3 Testing the Action of Levelling Agents......Page 105
3.4.5 Coverage of Skittery or Tippy-Dyeing Wool......Page 106
3.5 Restraining and Reserving Agents in Wool Blend Dyeing......Page 108
3.7 Wool Protective Agents......Page 109
3.8 Low-Temperature Dyeing......Page 110
3.9 Correction of Faulty Dyeings......Page 112
3.10 Aftertreatments to Improve Wet Fastness......Page 113
3.11 Effluent Control in Chrome Dyeing......Page 114
3.13 Antisetting Agents......Page 115
3.15 Conclusions......Page 116
References......Page 117
4.2 Wool Scouring......Page 119
4.3 Wool Carbonising......Page 120
4.4.1 Top Shrink-Resist Processes......Page 122
4.4.2 Garment Shrink-Resist Treatments......Page 125
4.4.3 Fabric Shrink-Resist Treatments......Page 126
4.4.4 Miscellaneous Developments......Page 127
4.5.1 Insect Pests......Page 128
4.5.2 Insect-Resist Agents......Page 129
4.5.3 Application Methods for IR Agents......Page 133
4.6 Flame-Retardant Treatments......Page 135
4.7 Antisetting Agents......Page 136
4.7.1 The Role of Oxidants in Preventing Setting in Dyeing......Page 138
4.7.2 The Role of Electrophilic Reagents in Controlling Setting in Dyeing......Page 139
4.8 Fibre Arylating Agents (FAA)......Page 140
References......Page 146
5.1 Introduction......Page 151
5.2.1 Measuring Wool Colour......Page 152
5.2.3 Improving Colour in the Scour......Page 154
5.2.5 Wool Colour Compared with Cotton and Synthetics......Page 155
5.3.1 Oxidative Bleaching......Page 158
5.3.2 Reductive Bleaching......Page 159
5.3.5 Bleaching in the Dyebath......Page 160
5.3.6 Biobleaching of Wool Using Enzymes......Page 162
5.3.7 Activated Peroxide Bleaching......Page 163
5.4 Fluorescent Whitening of Wool......Page 164
5.5 Photostability of Wool......Page 165
5.5.1 Mechanism of Wool Photoyellowing......Page 168
5.5.2 Mechanism of Photoyellowing of Fluorescent Whitened Wool......Page 169
5.5.3 Methods for Improving Photostability......Page 171
References......Page 173
6.1 Introduction......Page 177
6.2 Top Dyeing......Page 178
6.2.1 Longclose (UK) Large Bump Tops......Page 180
6.2.3 Vigoreux Printing......Page 181
6.3 Loose Stock Dyeing......Page 182
6.3.1 Continuous Dyeing of Loose Stock......Page 185
6.4.1 Carpet Yarn......Page 186
6.4.2 Hand-Knitting and Machine-Knitting Yarn......Page 187
6.4.4 Space Dyeing of Yarn......Page 189
6.5 Yarn Package Dyeing......Page 191
6.5.1 Package Preparation......Page 192
6.5.2 Machinery......Page 195
6.6.1 Jet and Overflow Dyeing......Page 198
6.7 Garment Dyeing......Page 199
6.8 Carpet Piece Dyeing......Page 202
6.9.1 Mechanical Moisture Removal......Page 203
6.9.2 Thermal Moisture Removal......Page 204
6.10.1 Dyehouse Control Systems......Page 206
6.10.3 Process Control......Page 208
6.10.4 Effluent Control Systems......Page 210
6.10.5 Colour Measurement......Page 211
6.11 Laboratory Dyeing......Page 212
6.11.1 Tops, Loose Stock, Hanks and Package Yarn......Page 213
6.11.2 Piece Dyeing......Page 218
6.11.3 Garment Dyeing......Page 221
6.11.4 Laboratory Machine Control Systems......Page 222
References......Page 223
7.1 Introduction......Page 225
7.2.1 Acid Dye Subclassification......Page 228
7.3 Natural Dyes......Page 233
7.4 Mordant Dyes......Page 234
7.4.1 Chrome Dyeing Processes......Page 236
7.4.2 Theoretical Aspects......Page 239
7.4.3 Low-Chrome Dyeing......Page 243
7.5 Specific Dyeing Methods......Page 246
References......Page 247
8.1 Introduction......Page 249
8.2 Dye Structure......Page 250
8.2.1 Electronic Structure......Page 252
8.2.2 Colour and Light Fastness......Page 255
8.2.3 Stereochemistry and Isomerism......Page 256
8.2.4 1 : 1 Metal-Complex Dyes......Page 257
8.2.5 1 : 2 Metal-Complex Dyes......Page 259
8.3.1 1 : 1 Metal-Complex Dyes......Page 262
8.3.2 1 : 2 Metal-Complex Dyes......Page 266
References......Page 268
9.1 Introduction......Page 271
9.2 Commercial Reactive Dyes for Wool......Page 272
9.3.2 Michael Addition Reaction......Page 273
9.3.3 Specific Reactive Dyes for Wool......Page 274
9.4.1 Auxiliary Agents......Page 280
9.4.2 Dyeing Processes Used with Reactive Dyes......Page 281
9.4.3 Effect of Reactive Dyes on Fibre Properties......Page 296
9.5.2 Isocyanate and Isothiocyanate Bisulphite Adducts......Page 301
9.5.4 Trifunctional Reactive Dyes Prepared from Bis-(chloroethyl-sulphonylethyl)amine [P-3] Reaction with a DCT Dye......Page 302
9.5.5 Crosslinking Agents to Covalently Fix Acid Dyes to Wool......Page 303
9.6 Identification of the Reaction Sites in the Fibre......Page 305
References......Page 307
10.1 Introduction......Page 311
10.2.1 Dyeing of Cotton......Page 313
10.2.2 Exhaustion Dyeing of Wool/Cotton Blends......Page 316
10.2.3 Pad Dyeing of Wool/Cotton Blends......Page 320
10.2.4 Wool Damage during Dyeing......Page 321
10.3 Amination of Cellulosic Fibres......Page 323
10.4 Wool/Silk......Page 325
10.4.1 Dyeing of Silk......Page 326
10.4.2 Dyeing of Wool/Silk Blends......Page 328
10.5.1 Dyeing of Nylon......Page 330
10.5.2 Dyeing of Wool/Nylon Blends......Page 339
10.6.1 Dyeing of Polyester......Page 343
10.6.2 Dyeing of Wool/Polyester Blends......Page 353
10.7 Wool/Acrylic......Page 361
10.7.1 Dyeing of Acrylic Fibres......Page 362
10.7.2 Dyeing of Wool/Acrylic Blends......Page 368
10.8 Conclusions......Page 371
References......Page 372
11.1 Introduction......Page 377
11.2 Structure and Morphology of Human Hair......Page 379
11.3 Natural Colour of Hair......Page 380
11.4 Physical Chemistry of Hair Dyeing......Page 384
11.5 Toxicology of Hair Dyes......Page 385
11.6 Oxidative Hair Coloration......Page 386
11.7 Alternative Approaches to Permanent Hair Dyeing......Page 389
11.8 Nonoxidative Hair Dyeing......Page 395
11.9 Conclusion......Page 406
References......Page 407
12.1 Introduction......Page 413
12.2.1 Oxidative Processes......Page 414
12.2.2 Polymer Treatments......Page 416
12.2.3 Plasma Treatments......Page 417
12.2.4 Other Methods of Preparation for Printing......Page 418
12.3.2 Dye Selection and Print Recipes......Page 419
12.3.3 Steaming......Page 422
12.3.4 Washing and Aftertreatment......Page 424
12.4.2 Discharge Agents......Page 425
12.4.4 Printing and Fixation......Page 427
12.5 Resist Printing......Page 428
12.5.1 Chemical Resist Processes......Page 429
12.5.2 Mechanical/Chemical Resist Processes......Page 431
12.6 Digital Printing......Page 432
12.6.2 Ink Formulation......Page 433
12.6.3 Fabric Pretreatment......Page 435
12.6.5 Wash-Off......Page 437
12.7 Wool Blends......Page 438
12.7.2 Wool/Cotton......Page 439
12.8 Cold Print Batch......Page 440
12.9.1 Wet or 'Migration' Transfer Printing......Page 441
12.9.2 Sublimation Transfer Printing......Page 442
12.9.3 Benzoylated Wool......Page 444
12.10.2 Sculptured Effects......Page 445
References......Page 446
Index......Page 451
Supplemental Images......Page 460