Textiles and Gender in Antiquity: From the Orient to the Mediterranean

Cover page
Halftitle page
Series page
Title page
Copyright page
Dedication
CONTENTS
PLATES
FIGURES
TABLES
CONTRIBUTORS
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
CHAPTER 1 TEXTILES AND GENDER IN ANTIQUITY: AN INTRODUCTION
	1.1 Research on ancient textiles
	1.2 Gendered textile terminologies
	1.3 Gendered textile activities
	1.4 Gendered wardrobes
	1.5 Concluding thoughts
	Note
	References
PART 1 GENDERED TEXTILE TERMINOLOGIES
	CHAPTER 2 TEXTILES AND GENDER DURING THE MIDDLE BABYLONIAN PERIOD (c. 1500–1000 bce): TEXTS FROM SYRIA AND BABYLONIA
		2.1 Garments of women in cultic contexts: the case of the high priestess of Baal
		2.2 Garments in dowries
		2.3 A Middle Babylonian list of clothes for the wedding ceremony
		2.4 Conclusion
		Abbreviations
		Notes
		References
	CHAPTER 3 THE GODDESS NANAJA’S NEW CLOTHES
		3.1 A letter of the king’s son
		3.2 What is the garment called kusıˉtu (Sumerian: túg-bar-dul 5)?
		3.3 The causes of displacement
		3.4 Modes of travel: the ‘boat of the kusıˉtu’ (eleppu ša kusıˉti)
		3.5 Conclusion and hypothesis
		Appendix: Transliteration of YOS 6, 71/72
		Notes
		References
	CHAPTER 4 TEXTILES AND GENDER AT UGARIT
		4.1 Gender and textile production
		4.2 Women and clothing
		4.3 Offerings in the ritual texts
		4.4 Women warriors
		4.5 Conclusion
		Acknowledgements
		Notes
		References
		Abbreviation
	CHAPTER 5 TOWARDS ENGENDERING TEXTILE PRODUCTION IN MIDDLE BRONZE AGE CRETE
		5.1 Middle Bronze Age Crete and the evidence for engendering textile production
		5.2 Textile production-related iconography of MBA seals from Crete
		5.3 Human figures in the imagery of the MBA glyptic – towards recognizing their gender and potential professions
		5.4 Quartier Mu, Malia, as a case study of a site-specific context for textile production and sealing practices
		5.5 Concluding remarks
		Notes
		References
PART 2 GENDERED TEXTILE ACTIVITIES
	CHAPTER 6 A MAN’S BUSINESS? WASHING THE CLOTHES IN ANCIENT EGYPT (SECOND AND FIRST MILLENNIA bce)
		6.1 Iconographic documents
		6.2 Second millennium literary sources
		6.3 Documentary texts from Ramesside to Hellenistic period
		6.4 Conclusion
		Abbreviations
		Notes
		References
	CHAPTER 7 WOMEN, MEN, GIRLS AND BOYS: GENDERED TEXTILE WORK AT LATE BRONZE AGE KNOSSOS
		7.1 Textile manufacture: workers and textiles
		7.2 Concluding remarks
		7.3 Excursus on the Linear B term o-nu-ke-ja (pl. f. onukheiai)3
		Acknowledgements
		Notes
		References
	CHAPTER 8 FEMALE DUES AND THE PRODUCTION OF TEXTILES IN ANCIENT GREECE
		8.1 Agamemnon’s offer
		8.2 Collecting dues in Homeric epic: Dotinai and Themistes
		8.3 Marriage and the practice of collecting dues
		8.4 The practice of collecting dues in Archaic Greece
		Acknowledgements
		References
	CHAPTER 9 GENDER AND TEXTILE PRODUCTION IN ROMAN SOCIETY AND POLITICS
		9.1 Wool-work and exemplary women of early Rome: Tanaquil and Lucretia
		9.2 The dualism of lanificium and textile production
		9.3 Feminine women, manly women and effeminate men
		9.4 Conclusions on gender roles and textiles in Roman society
		References
	CHAPTER 10 WORK GENDERING SPACE? ROMAN GENDER, TEXTILE WORK AND TIME IN SHARED DOMESTIC SPACE
		10.1 Locating domestic textile work
		10.2 Daytime domestic textile work and its soft boundaries
		10.3 Night-time domestic textile work: the paradigm of Lucretia
		10.4 Ventriloquized speech, agency and the control of working space
		10.5 Male fantasies of female space
		10.6 Conclusions: boundaries reinforced
		Notes
		References
PART 3 GENDERED WARDROBES
	CHAPTER 11 SOME REMARKS ON TEXTILES AND GENDER IN THE EBLA TEXTS OF THE THIRD MILLENNIUM BCE
		11.1 Textiles for men and textiles for women
		11.2 Textiles given to girls as dowry on occasion of their marriage
		11.3 Textiles for the great ritual
		11.4 Textiles for dead and the tomb
		11.5 Textiles given for the ceremony of purifi cation after a death
		11.6 Textiles as gifts for gods and goddesses
		11.7 Conclusion
		Acknowledgements
		Notes
		References
	CHAPTER 12 A VISUAL INVESTIGATION OF FEMININE GARMENTS AT MARI DURING THE EARLY BRONZE AGE
		12.1 Methodological issues
		12.2 The shell inlays of Mari
		12.3 Headdresses
		12.4 Clothing
		12.5 Pins and adornments
		12.6 Function and identity?
		References
	CHAPTER 13 BELTS AND PINS AS GENDERED ELEMENTS OF CLOTHING IN THIRD AND SECOND MILLENNIA MESOPOTAMIA
		13.1 Dressed like a man, dressed like a woman
		13.2 Pins for women
		13.3 Belts for men
		13.4 Conclusion
		Acknowledgements
		Notes
		References
	CHAPTER 14 ‘I MADE YOU PUT ON GARMENTS, I MADE YOU DRESS IN LINEN’: GENDER PERFORMANCE AND GARMENTS IN SUMERIAN LITERATURE
		14.1 What does a goddess’s garment look like?
		14.2 Textiles as a communicative tool in romantic interactions
		14.3 Garments and affective states
		14.4 Conclusion
		Acknowledgements
		Notes
		References
	CHAPTER 15 THE GENDER OF GARMENTS IN FIRST MILLENNIUM bce MESOPOTAMIA: AN INQUIRY THROUGH TEXTS AND ICONOGRAPHY
		15.1 The terminology of garments and gender
		15.2 Iconography: what distinguished male and female clothing?
		15.3 Conclusion
		Acknowledgements
		Notes
		References
	CHAPTER 16 WHITE MEN AND RAINBOW WOMEN: GENDERED COLOUR CODING IN ROMAN DRESS
		16.1 Ancient sculptural polychromy
		16.2 The colours of male and female garments in ancient sculpture
		16.3 Colouring the moral compass
		16.4 Conclusions
		Notes
		References
	CHAPTER 17 GARMENTS FOR POTTERS? TEXTILES, GENDER AND FUNERARY PRACTICES IN LES MARTRES--DE-VEYRE, FRANCE (ROMAN PERIOD)
		17.1 General context of the study
		17.2 The graveyard and the graves
		17.3 The textiles
		17.4 Gendered or not?
		17.5 Garments for potters?
		Acknowledgements
		Notes
		References
	CHAPTER 18 FASHIONING THE FEMALE IN THE EARLY NORTH AFRICAN CHURCH
		18.1 Introduction: exploring female dress
		18.2 Inherited attitudes towards female dress
		18.3 Debating female dress in Tertullian: women
		18.4 Debating female dress in Tertullian and Cyprian of Carthage: virgins
		18.5 Male voices and criticism of female attire
		18.6 Conclusion: fashioning the female in Christian Carthage
		References
	CHAPTER 19 CLIMATE CHANGE AND CLOTHING CHANGES IN LATE ANTIQUE MALE DRESS
		19.1 A change in dress for a changing climate
		19.2 Conclusions
		Acknowledgements
		Notes
		References
PART 4 AFTERWORDS
	CHAPTER 20 A NOTE ON GENDER AND FRENCH‘HAUTE COUTURE’ IN 1970: ‘LES SUM É RIENNES’ BY JACQUES ESTÉREL
		Notes
		References
	CHAPTER 21 CONCLUDING REMARKS
		References
INDEX OF NAMES
GENERAL INDEX
Plates