Textile Chemistry

Cover......Page 1
Title Page......Page 4
Copyright......Page 5
Contents......Page 6
 1.2 Spinning......Page 14
 1.3 Linear density – yarn count......Page 16
 1.4 Fabric formation......Page 17
 1.5 Textile chemical aspects in spinning and fabric formation......Page 18
  1.5.1 Spin finish......Page 19
  1.5.2 Sizing......Page 21
  1.5.4 Printing/coating......Page 23
  1.5.6 Technical textiles......Page 24
 References......Page 25
 2.1 Fibre production......Page 30
  2.2.1 Polymer-dependent fibre properties......Page 33
 2.3 Molecular mass/degree of polymerisation......Page 37
  2.4.1 Cellulose fibres......Page 39
  2.4.2 Structure of cotton/flax/hemp fibres......Page 40
 2.5 Relevant aspects of cellulose chemistry (chemical reactions,derivatisation and chemical stability)......Page 45
  2.6.2 Hydrolysis......Page 48
  2.6.3 Oxidation......Page 50
  2.6.4 Esterification......Page 51
  2.6.5 Etherification......Page 52
  2.6.7 The secondary structure of cellulose......Page 53
  2.7.1 Dissolution of cellulose......Page 55
  2.7.2 The viscose process......Page 56
  2.7.3 Lyocell fibres – the NMMO process......Page 60
  2.7.5 Cupro fibres – the cuprammonium process......Page 63
  2.7.6 Cellulose diacetate and triacetate......Page 64
  2.8.1 General aspects of protein fibres......Page 65
  2.8.2 Protein structure – basic properties......Page 66
  2.8.3 Wool......Page 69
  2.8.4 Silk......Page 71
  2.8.5 Casein fibres......Page 72
  2.9.1 General......Page 73
  2.9.2 Polyamide......Page 74
  2.9.3 Aminocarboxylic acid-based PAs......Page 75
  2.9.4 Diamine–dicarboxylic acid-based PAs......Page 77
  2.9.5 PES fibres......Page 79
  2.9.6 Polylactic acid and polyhydroxybutyrate......Page 84
  2.9.7 Polyurethanes/elastomer fibres......Page 85
  2.9.8 Polyolefin fibres, PE and PP......Page 89
  2.9.9 Polyacrylonitrile fibres......Page 93
  2.9.10 High-performance fibres......Page 95
 References......Page 98
 3.2 Crystallinity versus amorphous regions......Page 106
 3.3 Constitution of a polymer......Page 107
 3.4 High-performance fibres......Page 109
 3.6 Consequences of polydispersity......Page 111
 3.7 Configuration......Page 113
 3.8 Conformation......Page 115
  3.8.1 Conformational statistics......Page 116
 3.9 Polymer assemblies......Page 117
 3.10 The thermodynamic non-equilibrium state of polymers......Page 118
 3.11 Models of fibre structure......Page 120
  3.12.1 Moisture/adsorption/swelling......Page 123
 References......Page 125
 4.2 Dipoles......Page 128
 4.3 Polarisability......Page 130
  4.4.1 Ion–ion interactions......Page 132
  4.4.2 Van der Waals forces......Page 134
  4.4.3 Hydrogen bonds......Page 135
  4.4.4 Hydrophobic interactions......Page 136
  4.4.5 π-electron interactions......Page 137
 4.5 The polymer–solvent boundary layer......Page 138
 4.6 Zeta potential......Page 141
 4.7 Donnan equilibrium......Page 146
 References......Page 148
 5.1 Moisture sorption......Page 152
 5.2 Moisture sorption isotherms......Page 153
  5.2.1 Water activity......Page 154
 5.3 Sorption kinetics for adsorption from the gas phase......Page 159
  5.4.1 General considerations......Page 163
  5.4.2 The Nernst isotherm......Page 164
  5.4.3 The Freundlich isotherm......Page 165
  5.4.4 Langmuir adsorption isotherm......Page 167
  5.4.5 Special aspects of sorption isotherms......Page 169
 References......Page 176
 6.2 Step A – dissolution of dispersed dye......Page 180
 6.3 Infinite and finite dyeing kinetics......Page 182
 6.4 Step B – hydraulic transport in the dyebath......Page 183
 6.5 Step C – diffusion through the boundary layer of the fibre......Page 184
 6.6 Step D – dyestuff sorption in the fibre......Page 185
 6.7 Levelling......Page 186
 6.8 Follow-up reactions – kinetics in reactive dyeing......Page 187
 6.9 Preceding and following reactions – vat dyeing......Page 189
 References......Page 190
 7.2 Physical aspects of colour development......Page 194
 7.3 Additive and subtractive colour......Page 198
 7.4 Development of colour......Page 199
 7.5 Colour variations independent of molecular structure......Page 205
 7.6 Fluorescence and phosphorescence......Page 206
 7.7 Textile chemical relevance......Page 209
 References......Page 211
  8.2.1 Mono-, di- and polyazo dyes......Page 216
  8.2.2 The diazotisation......Page 217
  8.2.3 The coupling component......Page 219
 8.3 Anthraquinone chromophores......Page 222
 8.5 Cationic dyes......Page 225
 8.6 Polymethine dyes......Page 226
 8.7 Phthalocyanine dyes – Aza[18]annulenes......Page 227
 8.8 Sulphur-based chromophores......Page 228
 8.9 Metal complexes......Page 229
 8.10 Formazan dyes......Page 230
 8.12 Photodegradation of dyes......Page 231
 8.13 Photodegradation of dye classes......Page 233
 References......Page 237
 9.1 The perception of colour......Page 240
 9.2 The standard observer......Page 243
 9.4 Metamerism......Page 245
 9.5 Tristimulus values......Page 247
 9.6 Colour coordinates......Page 249
 9.7 Measurement of reflectance curves......Page 253
 9.8 Determination of whiteness, yellowness......Page 255
 9.9 Colour strength – the Kubelka–Munk function......Page 257
 9.10 Prediction of dyeing recipes......Page 259
 9.11 Gloss/lustre......Page 260
 References......Page 262
  10.2.1 Dyeing processes with disperse dyes......Page 266
  10.2.2 Reductive cleaning......Page 270
 10.3 Direct dyes......Page 271
  10.4.1 Chemistry of reactive dyes......Page 273
  10.4.2 Important dyeing techniques......Page 281
  10.5.1 Oxidation/soaping......Page 292
 10.5 Vat dyes......Page 285
  10.6.1 Synthesis of indigo......Page 296
  10.6.2 Application of indigo......Page 297
  10.6.3 Chemistry of indigo reduction......Page 300
  10.6.4 Garment wash – fading......Page 304
 10.7 Sulphur dyes......Page 305
 10.8 Acid dyes and metal complex dyes......Page 309
 10.9 Naphthol dyes......Page 312
 10.10 Cationic dyes/basic dyes......Page 313
  10.11.1 General aspects......Page 315
  10.11.2 Major classes of natural colourants......Page 317
  10.11.3 Tannin-based dyes......Page 322
 10.12 Pigment dyes......Page 325
  10.13.1 General aspects of printing......Page 326
  10.13.2 Screen printing......Page 330
  10.13.3 Ink-jet printing......Page 332
 References......Page 334
 11.1 Sizing......Page 342
 11.2 Desizing......Page 345
 11.3 Alkaline extraction......Page 346
 11.5 Setting of synthetic fibres......Page 347
 11.6 Alkalisation (causticising, mercerisation)......Page 348
 11.7 Alkalisation of polyester fibres......Page 350
  11.8.2 Peroxide compounds......Page 351
  11.8.3 Halogen-based oxidants......Page 354
 11.10 Carbonisation......Page 356
 11.11 Reductive bleach......Page 357
 11.12 Wool anti-felt treatment......Page 358
 11.13 Cationisation......Page 360
 References......Page 361
 12.2 Easy-care/durable press finishing......Page 366
 12.3 Softening......Page 370
 12.4 Hand building finishes......Page 372
 12.5 Water-repellent finishes......Page 373
 12.6 Flame retardant finishes......Page 375
 12.7 Antistatic finishes......Page 380
 12.8 Improvement of colour fastness......Page 385
 12.9 Improving the light fastness......Page 386
 12.10 UV protection......Page 387
 12.11 Antimicrobial finishing......Page 390
 12.12 Insect-resistant finishes – Mite protection......Page 393
 12.13 Enzymatic finishing – biofinishing......Page 394
 12.14 Denim finishing......Page 396
 12.15 Finishes that influence thermal regulation......Page 399
 12.16 Sorption of fragrances and functional substances......Page 400
  12.17.1 Introduction......Page 401
  12.17.3 Free radical formation......Page 402
  12.17.4 Etching/cleaning......Page 403
  12.17.6 Surface coating by plasma-induced polymerisation......Page 404
  12.17.7 Industrial plasma technologies and applications on textiles......Page 405
 References......Page 406
 13.2 Batchwise operation......Page 410
 13.3 Yarn dyeing apparatus......Page 411
 13.4 Overflow dyeing machines/jet dyeing machines......Page 413
 13.5 Continuous pretreatment......Page 414
 13.6 Continuous dyeing processes – cold-pad-batch dyeing......Page 417
 13.7 Continuous dyeing processes – pad-dry/pad steam plants......Page 419
 13.8 Drying, fixation and finishing......Page 422
 13.9 Minimum pick-up applications......Page 423
 References......Page 424
 14.2 Classification of surfactants......Page 432
 14.3 Solubility of surfactants......Page 433
 14.4 Contact angle......Page 435
 14.6 Surfactant adhesion at interfaces......Page 438
 14.7 The role of multivalent ions......Page 440
 14.8 Detergent ingredients......Page 441
 14.9 Washing and environment......Page 447
 References......Page 448
 15.1 Waste water......Page 452
 15.2 General wastewater treatment......Page 453
  15.3.2 Wool processing......Page 455
  15.3.3 Sizing/desizing......Page 456
  15.3.4 Scouring, bleaching, pre-washing......Page 457
  15.3.5 Mercerisation/causticising......Page 458
  15.3.6 Dyeing processes......Page 459
  15.3.7 Printing......Page 461
  15.4.2 Filtration techniques......Page 462
  15.4.6 Biological (aerobic, anaerobic) treatment......Page 464
 15.5 Recycling and disposal......Page 465
 15.6 Approaches and challenges......Page 466
 References......Page 467
Index......Page 472