Sustainability : how the cosmetics industry is greening up

 Content: About the Contributors xv Foreword xxiii  Preface xxvii  1 Introduction to Sustainability 1  Amarjit Sahota   1.1 Introduction to Book 1  1.2 Introduction to Sustainability 2  1.3 Ethics in the Cosmetics Industry 3  1.4 Drivers of Sustainability 6  1.4.1 Rise in Ethical Consumerism 7  1.4.2 Pressure from the Media and NGOs 7  1.4.3 Environmental Changes and Finite Resources 8  1.4.4 Pressure from the Supply Chain 9  1.4.5 Laws and Regulation 9  1.4.6 Business Benefits 10  1.5 Sustainability Reporting 10  1.5.1 CSR and Sustainability Reports 10  1.5.2 Communicating to Consumers 11  1.6 Guide to Book Chapters 12  References 15  2 Environmental Impacts of Cosmetic Products 17  Part 1: The Growing Importance of Metrics 17  Xavier Vital   2.1.1 Corporate Carbon Footprinting 18  2.1.2 Ecodesign 25  2.1.3 Get Ready for the Future 27  2.1.4 Conclusions 30  Acknowledgement 31  References 31  Part 2: Innovating to Reduce the Environmental Footprint, the L'Oreal Example 31  Jean-Florent Campion, Rachel Barre, and Laurent Gilbert   2.2.1 Introduction 31  2.2.2 Product Eco-Design 32  2.2.3 Responsible Sourcing and Biodiversity Preservation 35  2.2.4 Responsible Production 38  2.2.5 Reference Actions -- Some Examples of Key Achievements 40  2.2.6 Conclusion 46  Acknowledgements 46  References 46  3 The Social Footprint of a Beauty Company 47   Bas Schneiders   3.1 The Relationship between Cosmetics and Sustainability 47  3.2 The Growing Significance of Sustainability 48  3.2.1 Current Situation 48  3.2.2 Solution Strategies 49  3.3 Sustainability as a Social Challenge for Cosmetics Companies 50  3.3.1 Social Footprinting 50  3.3.2 Critical Areas with Social Impacts 50  3.3.3 Social Diversity and Differentiation 52  3.4 Case Study: Weleda: A Value-Oriented Business 53  3.4.1 Ethical Sourcing 55  3.4.2 Employee Policy 62  3.4.3 Corporate Philanthropy 65  3.4.4 Economic Sustainability and Value Creation 66  3.5 Conclusions 68  Recommended Reading 68  References 68  4 Ethical Sourcing of Raw Materials 69  Part 1: Ethical Sourcing -- The Givaudan Approach 69  Remi Pulverail   4.1.1 The Business Case for Ethical Sourcing 69  4.1.2 Making Ethical Sourcing a Reality 70  4.1.3 Working with Customers 71  4.1.4 Building Supplier Partnerships 72  4.1.5 Securing the Future of Benzoin in Laos 72  4.1.6 Tracing the Origins of Ethical Vanilla in Madagascar 74  4.1.7 Moh'eli Partnership Rediscovers Ylang Ylang 76  4.1.8 Equipment Loans Support Sustainable Sandalwood Production 77  4.1.9 Protecting Biodiversity and Tonka Bean Supply in Venezuela 79  4.1.10 Is Natural Sustainable? 80  4.1.11 Conclusion 80  Part 2: Innovation and Ethical Sourcing -- Beraca's Experience 81  Filipe Tomazelli Sabara   4.2.1 Introduction 81  4.2.2 Challenges Related to Ethical Sourcing 82  4.2.3 Beraca and the Biodiversity Enhancement Programme 83  4.2.4 Working in Partnership with Local Communities 85  4.2.5 Success Stories 89  4.2.6 What is Yet to be Achieved 93  4.2.7 Conclusion 94  References 95  5 Biodiversity in the Cosmetics Industry 97  Eduardo Escobedo and Rik Kutsch Lojenga   5.1 Introduction 97  5.1.1 The Critical Loss of Biodiversity and Its Impact on the Cosmetics Industry 99  5.2 Why Should the Cosmetics Industry Care about Protecting Biodiversity? 100  5.2.1 Biodiversity as a Sound Business Strategy 101  5.2.2 Ecosystem Services 102  5.3 How is the Policy Arena Changing and What Implications Does This Have for the Industry? 103  5.3.1 The Convention on Biological Diversity 103  5.3.2 The Strategic Plan for Biodiversity 104  5.3.3 The Nagoya Protocol 106  5.3.4 The Convention on International Trade of Endangered Species of Wild Flora and Fauna (CITES) 107  5.4 Biodiversity Barometer: Consumer Views and Expectations on Biodiversity 109  5.4.1 Biodiversity Awareness is Growing 110  5.4.2 Increased Awareness Brings Greater Expectations 111  5.4.3 Opportunities for Pioneering Companies 111  5.5 Ethical Sourcing in Practice 114  5.5.1 Putting Ethical Sourcing of Biodiversity into Practice 114  5.5.2 Conservation of Biodiversity 116  5.5.3 Sustainable Use of Biodiversity 118  5.5.4 Fair and Equitable Benefit Sharing 120  5.6 Conclusions 124  References 125  6 Sustainable Packaging 127  Part 1: Introduction 127  Amarjit Sahota   References 129  Part 2: Sustainable Packaging for Cosmetic Products -- Using Biobased Carbon Content and Designing for End-of-Life 129  Ramani Narayan   6.2.1 Introduction 129  6.2.2 Carbon Footprint Value Proposition 130  6.2.3 Material Carbon Versus Process Carbon Footprint 131  6.2.4 Exemplars of Zero Material Carbon Footprint Resins 132  6.2.5 Measuring Biobased Carbon Content 134  6.2.6 End-of-Life for the Packaging -- Recycling and Biodegradable-Compostability 135  6.2.7 Science of Biodegradability 136  6.2.8 Summary 138  References 139  Part 3: The Role of Design for Sustainable Packaging 139  Anne van Haeften   6.3.1 Introduction 139  6.3.2 The Design Agency 140  6.3.3 Packaging Design 141  6.3.4 The Brand 142  6.3.5 Innovation and Design 144  6.3.6 Graphical Component 144  6.3.7 Post-Use Packaging 145  6.3.8 Lush Case Study: Get Naked! 145  6.3.9 Conclusion 147  References 148  Part 4: Sustainable Packaging -- Aveda Case Study 148  John A. Delfausse   6.4.1 A Commitment to the Environment -- the Aveda Mission 148  6.4.2 Direction from the Top 148  6.4.3 A Great Beginning 149  6.4.4 Real Sustainability 153  7 Energy and Waste Management 155  Charles J. 'Chuck' Bennett and Michael S. Brown   7.1 Introduction to Energy and Waste Management in the Cosmetics Industry 155  7.1.1 Global Resource Constraints and the Challenge for Business 155  7.1.2 Energy Issues and the Cosmetics Industry 156  7.1.3 Wastes and Personal Care Products 158  7.2 Aveda -- the Company 159  7.3 Energy Management in Aveda 161  7.3.1 Process Energy Opportunities 162  7.3.2 Facility Energy Improvements 162  7.3.3 Results and Current Situation 163  7.3.4 Renewable Energy and Emissions Offsets 164  7.3.5 Other Dimensions of Aveda's Energy Management -- Shipping and Product Use 166  7.4 Waste Management at Aveda 167  7.4.1 Waste Management in Operations 167  7.4.2 Recycling beyond Blaine 169  7.4.3 Products and Packaging 169  7.5 Summary 173  References 173  8 Corporate Social Responsibility and Philanthropy 175  Part 1: Introduction 175  Amarjit Sahota   8.1.1 Corporate Social Responsibility 175  8.1.2 Corporate Philanthropy 176  References 178  Part 2: BURT'S BEES(R) Case Study 178  Paula Alexander   8.2.1 Value-Driven Sustainability Leadership 180  8.2.2 The Greater Good Business Model: An Integrated Approach to Sustainability 181  8.2.3 Strategic Giving 184  8.2.4 Employee Engagement 186  8.2.5 Summary 188  References 188  Part 3: Dr. Bronner's Magic Soaps: Business as Activism 189  David Bronner   8.3.1 Introduction 189  8.3.2 Company Background 189  8.3.3 Fair Trade Projects 191  8.3.4 Corporate Activism 194  8.3.5 Summary 195  9 Green Formulations and Ingredients 197  Judi Beerling   9.1 Introduction 197  9.2 Definitions 198  9.2.1 Synthetic Ingredient 198  9.2.2 Natural Ingredient 198  9.2.3 Naturally Derived Ingredient 199  9.2.4 Nature Identical Ingredient 199  9.2.5 Organic 199  9.3 How Natural are Current Market Products? 200  9.4 Synthetic Ingredients Normally Absent from Natural/Organic Cosmetics 202  9.5 Available Green Replacements for Synthetic Cosmetic Ingredients 204  9.6 Formulation Issues with Green Ingredients 214  9.7 Summary 214  References 215  10 Green Standards, Certification and Indices 217  Judi Beerling and Amarjit Sahota   10.1 Introduction 217  10.2 Natural and Organic Cosmetic Standards 218  10.2.1 Major European Standards for Natural and Organic Products 219  10.2.2 BDIH (Germany) 219  10.2.3 Ecocert Greenlife (France) 220  10.2.4 CosmeBio (France) 221  10.2.5 Soil Association (UK) 221  10.2.6 ICEA (Italy) 222  10.2.7 COSMOS 222  10.2.8 Natrue (Belgium) 224  10.2.9 Other European Standards 225  10.2.10 Major North American Standards 225  10.2.11 USDA/NOP 226  10.2.12 NSF International 226  10.2.13 NPA (Natural Products Association) 227  10.2.14 Standards in Other Regions 228  10.2.15 Comparison of the Key Requirements of the Ecocert Greenlife, COSMOS and Natrue Standards 229  10.3 Fair Trade Labels 229  10.4 Other Eco-Labels 231  10.4.1 Eco Flower -- The European Eco-Label 231  10.4.2 Nordic Swan -- The Nordic Ecolabel 232  10.4.3 Others in Europe 232  10.4.4 Green Seal USA 232  10.4.5 USDA Biobased Product Certification 233  10.4.6 Carbon Labels 233  10.5 Other Sustainability Standards and Indices 234  10.5.1 ISO Standards 14000 and 26000 234  10.5.2 SA8000 235  10.5.3 Other Standards 236  10.5.4 Sustainable Indexes 236  References 237  11 Understanding Green Marketing 239  Darrin C. Duber-Smith and Mason W. Rubin   11.1 The "Why" of Sustainability 240  11.2 The Green Consumer 242  11.3 Best Green Practices 244  11.4 Communication versus Reality: The Many Shades of Green 245  11.4.1 Red Marketer 245  11.4.2 Green Panderer 247  11.4.3 Green Buffeteer 248  11.4.4 Light Green Marketer 249  11.4.5 Natural Green Marketer 250  11.4.6 Deep Green Marketer 251  11.5 Greener Than Thou 252  References 253  12 Marketing Case Studies 255  Part 1: Yes ToTM Inc. 255  Ido Leffler   12.1.1 The Background 255  12.1.2 The Growth Path 256  12.1.3 Marketing Strategy 259  12.1.4 Product Positioning 262  12.1.5 Distribution Growth and Brand Extensions 263  12.1.6 Future Plans 264  Part 2: Korres Natural Products 265  12.2.1 George Korres From Herbal Remedies to Natural Products 265  12.2.2 The Challenge 267  12.2.3 Vision and Strategy 268  12.2.4 Target Audience 270  12.2.5 The Portfolio at a Glance 270  12.2.6 Marketing and Positioning 271  12.2.7 Beauty Made Honest 272  12.2.8 Sustainability 273  12.2.9 Global Presence 274  12.2.10 A Closer Look 276  12.2.11 A Success Case Study Starring ... the Product 277  12.2.12 The Future 277  Part 3: Whole Foods Market 278  Jody Villecco   12.3.1 Introduction 278  12.3.2 Body Care Quality Standards 279  12.3.3 Whole Body Responsible Packaging 285  12.3.4 Organic Body Care Labeling Standards 286  12.3.5 Industry Recognition 287  12.3.6 Conclusion 287  References 288  13 Targeting the Green Consumer 289  Kathy Sheehan   13.1 Introduction 289  13.2 United States 292  13.3 Western Europe 295  13.4 China 296  13.5 Latin America 298  13.6 Conclusions 300  14 Future Outlook 301  Amarjit Sahota   14.1 Preamble 301  14.2 Sustainability 301  14.3 Social Dimensions 303  14.4 Green Cosmetics 305  14.5 Responsible Consumption 308  14.6 Role of Government and Legislation 310  14.7 Benchmarking of Cosmetic Companies 311  14.8 Conclusions 312  References 314  Index