Staging Fashion: The Fashion Show and Its Spaces

Copyright Page
Title Page
Contents
Figures
Abbrevations
Contributors
Preface
Acknowledgements
Staging the fashion show and its spaces
	Structure of the Book
	References
Part 1: Body and space
	Chapter 1: The discursive space of the fashion show
		Modern spaces
		Shifting the fashion show
		Conclusion
		References
	Chapter 2: ‘Through the looking glass’: Thom Browne and the tailoring of a queer design
		Tailoring the rituals of fashion’s homosocial performance
		Fall 2016: When Dorian Gray met Adolf Loos
		Spring 2018: Secular reliquary of gender
		Spring 2019: Camp and the garden of silly delights
		Conclusion
		Notes
		References
	Chapter 3: In his own words: Chalayan speaks
		Rise to fame
		An architect of ideas
		Remote control couture
		Material maestro and technological innovation
		References
	Chapter 4: The fashion chamber and the posthuman dissolution of gender
		Introduction
		Fashion installation: Open and closed
		The fashion chamber of horrors
		The dissolution of gender, posthumanism and the end of ‘Man’
		Conclusion
		References
	Chapter 5: ‘Savage Beauties’: Alexander McQueen’s performance of posthuman bodies
		Introduction
		Alexander McQueen’s posthuman bodies
		Matter, the body and fashion
		McQueen’s posthuman fashion and metamorphosis in Voss
		(Un)folding posthuman bodies in Voss
		Becoming an underwater assemblage
		Conclusion
		References
	6: Under the skin: Designing immersive experiences in fashion display
		Introduction
		The Stitchery Collective’s creative practice
		Fashion spaces
		Experiencing bodiless clothes
		Participation in design and fashion
		Conclusion
		References
Part 2: Architecture and city
	Chapter 7: ‘It’s a sensation’: Space and affect within the fashion show
		Introduction
		Atmosphere
		Primary Structures
		Fashion, performance, luminance
		The contemporary fashion show
		Movement, sand, light
		Conclusion
		References
	Chapter 8: Industrial chic: Fashion shows in ready-made spaces
		Introduction
		Studying the runway show as a cultural-economic, media-related and socio-spatial phenomenon
		The changing concept of runway shows
		The invention of unusual show locations in a contemporary setting
		A typology of unusual show locations based on adaptive reuse
		Aesthetic reuse value and the cultural alchemy of appropriation
		Ideological reuse values: Brand-squatting and guerrilla fashion shows
		A marketplace of impression-making
		The aesthetic market and the real estate market
		Conclusion
		References
	Chapter 9: Staging fashion in Hong Kong’s alternative neighbourhood places and spaces
		Introduction
		The fashioned urban space: Fashion and/in the city
		Fashion show origins
		The social milieu of fashion weeks and fashion shows
		Fashioning urban Hong Kong
		PMQ site of the fashion show: A case study
		Identification and orientation function
		Persuasive function
		Aesthetic function
		Regulatory function
		Conclusion
		References
	Chapter 10: ‘Too difficult’: Koolhaas, OMA and Prada at the boundary of fashion
		Introduction
		The art of Prada
		Constancy and change
		A radical space: From Epicenter to fashion show
		Too difficult
		Where one ends and the other begins
		Conclusion
		References
	Chapter 11: Creativity, corporeality and collaboration: Staging fashion with Giorgio Armani and Robert Wilson
		Introduction
		G.A. Story: Creativity and commerce
		The lady from the sea: Independent femininity
		The Guggenheim exhibition: Reinventing the white cube
		The art of collaboration
		Notes
		References
Part 3: Spectacle, media and space
	Chapter 12: The construction of social relations in Chanel’s spectacular shows
		Introduction
		The shows
		Spectacle
		Commodity
		Conclusion
		Notes
		References
	Chapter 13: New York Fashion Week as mediatized environment
		Introduction
		The mediatized fashion show
		New York Fashion Week as a live and mediatized event
		The studio spaces of the fashion show
		Conclusion
		Notes
		References
	Chapter 14: Specularization of fashion: Desperate Housewives and the fashion show runway
		Introduction
		Pilot
		Gabrielle’s fashion show
		Twinned origins, film and fashion shows as popular sensations
		Conclusion
		References
	Chapter 15: Fashion on parade: Designing glamour and ordinariness at the British beauty contest
		Introduction
		‘Beauty surrounds, health abounds’: Miss Great Britain at the Super Swimming Stadium
		Dressing the stage: Miss She and Glamorous Grandmother at Butlin’s Holiday Camp
		Making a spectacle: Miss World at the Royal Albert Hall
		Conclusion
		Acknowledgements
		References
Index