Sizing in Clothing: Developing Effective Sizing Systems for Ready-To-wear Clothing

1845690346......Page 1
Contents......Page 6
Contributor contact details......Page 12
Preface......Page 18
1.1 Introduction......Page 24
1.2 The emergence of sizing systems......Page 25
1.3 The beginning of systematic pattern construction and sizing......Page 29
1.4 The impact of fashion on the development of standard sizing for women’s ready-to-wear garments......Page 44
1.5 Methods of sizing for the emerging mass production of clothing for men......Page 56
1.6 Sizing for the mass production of clothing in the first half of the twentieth century......Page 61
1.7 Sizing for the mass production of clothing in the second half of the twentieth century......Page 66
1.10 References......Page 71
2.1 Introduction......Page 80
2.2 Basis of existing international sizing systems: state of sizing systems in the industry and unification of sizing......Page 83
2.3 Proposed methods for creating sizing systems......Page 86
2.4 Changing and adjusting sizing systems......Page 103
2.5 Future trends......Page 106
2.7 References......Page 107
3.1 Introduction......Page 111
3.2 Standardization of sizes......Page 114
3.3 Standardization of size designations......Page 121
3.4 International sizing standards......Page 123
3.5 Future trends......Page 125
3.6 Sources of further information and advice......Page 126
3.7 References......Page 127
4.2 The apparel product development and production processes......Page 131
4.3 Marketing......Page 132
4.4 A priori segmentation......Page 137
4.5 A posteriori segmentation......Page 149
4.6 Target marketing......Page 152
4.7 Fit models......Page 153
4.8 Fitting futures......Page 166
4.9 References......Page 169
5.1 Introduction......Page 175
5.2 Historical background......Page 176
5.3 Grading process......Page 180
5.4 Examination of the relationship between grade rules and associated body measurements......Page 194
5.5 Grading assumptions that are the actual basis for grade rules......Page 202
5.6 Comparison of standard graded bodice with regression findings......Page 207
5.7 Goals of grading......Page 212
5.8 Conclusions and implications......Page 215
5.9 Future trends and possibilities......Page 217
5.10 Sources of further information and advice......Page 220
5.11 References......Page 221
6.1 Introduction......Page 225
6.2 Human performance in clothing systems......Page 226
6.3 Fit......Page 229
6.4 Thermal aspects of fit......Page 237
6.6 Sources of further information and advice......Page 240
6.8 References......Page 241
7.1 Introduction......Page 243
7.2 Communications from manufacturer to consumer......Page 244
7.3 Communications from consumer to manufacturer......Page 256
7.4 Impact of new technologies......Page 261
7.5 Future trends......Page 262
7.6 Sources of further information and advice......Page 263
7.7 References......Page 266
8.1 Introduction......Page 269
8.2 Strategies and technologies for mass-customized sizing......Page 272
8.3 Body measurement selection and application......Page 279
8.4 Future trends......Page 281
8.5 Sources of further information and advice......Page 283
8.6 References......Page 285
9.1 Introduction......Page 287
9.2 Fit judgment framework......Page 288
9.3 Non-stretch materials......Page 290
9.4 Stretch materials......Page 291
9.5 Effect of material properties on fit and sizing......Page 293
9.6 Fit assessment......Page 295
9.7 Future trends......Page 296
9.9 References......Page 298
10.1 Introduction......Page 300
10.2 Fit and sizing for protection of the military wearer for the mission threat......Page 301
10.3 Military sizing systems......Page 312
10.4 Sizing for military populations......Page 315
10.5 Getting the right size at the right time and right place......Page 319
10.6 Future trends......Page 324
10.8 Sources of further information and advice (see also References)......Page 326
10.9 References......Page 328
11.2 Fashion......Page 332
11.3 Size and scale......Page 333
11.4 Fit, size and re-forming the body......Page 336
11.5 Size as a spectacle......Page 337
11.6 Menswear and scale......Page 339
11.7 The perfect body......Page 342
11.8 Beauty, the individual and the fashion image......Page 343
11.9 Conclusions......Page 348
11.10 References......Page 349
12.1 Introduction......Page 351
12.2 The development of the home sewing pattern industry......Page 352
12.3 The development of sizing for the home sewing pattern......Page 355
12.4 Measurements and sizes of paper patterns......Page 358
12.5 Altering patterns to fit......Page 365
12.6 Summary and future trends......Page 366
12.7 Sources of further information and advice......Page 368
12.8 References......Page 369
13.1 Introduction......Page 371
13.2 Quality control and specifications......Page 372
13.3 Preproduction: design and pattern making......Page 373
13.4 Preproduction: prototypes and development of size specifications......Page 376
13.5 Preproduction: fabric testing and approval......Page 377
13.6 Preproduction: marker making......Page 379
13.7 Spreading......Page 381
13.8 Cutting and bundling......Page 383
13.9 Interfacings and sewing......Page 385
13.10 Finishing and labeling......Page 389
13.11 Prevention of errors......Page 390
13.12 Distribution......Page 391
13.13 Future developments......Page 393
13.14 Sources of further information and advice......Page 395
13.16 References......Page 397
Index......Page 400