Roughing It

ILLUSTRATIONS FOREWORD ROUGHING IT Prefatory 1. My Brother Appointed Secretary ofNevada-I Envy His Prospective Adventures-Am Appointed Private Secretary under Him- My Contentment Complete- Packed in One HourDreams and Visions- On the Missouri River- A \"Bully\" Boat 2. Arrive at St. Joseph-Only Twenty-five Pounds Baggage Allowed-Farewell to Kid Gloves and Dress Coats-Armed to the Teeth- The \"Allen\"-A Cheerful Weapon- Persuaded to Buy a Mule- Schedule of luxuries- We Leave \"the States\" -Our Coach-Mails for the Indians- Between a Wink and an Earthquake-A Modern Sphynx and How She Entertained Us-A Sociable Heifer 3. \"The Thoroughbrace Is Broke\"-Mails Delivered ProperlySleeping under Difficulties-A Jackass Rabbit Meditating, and on Business-A Modern Gulliver- Sage-brush- Overcoats as an Article of Diet- Sad Fate of a Camel-Warning to Experimenters 4. Making Our Bed-Assaults by the Unabridged-At a Station- Our Driver a Great and Shining Dignitary-Strange Place for a Front Yard- Accommodations-Double Portraits- An Heirloom-Our Worthy Landlord-\"Fixings and Things\"-An Exile-Slum-gullion-A Well Furnished Table-The Landlord Astonished- Table Etiquette- Wild Mexican Mules- Stage-coaching and Railroading 5. New Acquaintances-The Cayote-A Dog\'s Experiences- A Disgusted Dog-The Relatives of the Cayote -Meals Taken Away from Home 6. The Division Superintendent-The Conductor-The Driver-One Hundred and Fifty Miles\' Drive without Sleep- Teaching a Subordinate-Our Old Friend Jack and a Pi!- grim-Ben Holladay Compared to Moses 7. Overland City-Crossing the Platte-Bemis\'s Buffalo Hunt -Assault by a Buffalo-Bemis\'s Horse Goes Crazy- An Impromptu Circus-A New Departure-Bemis Finds Refuge in a Tree-Escapes Finally by a Wonderful Method 41 8. The Pony Express-Fifty Miles without Stopping-\"Here He Comes!\"-Alkali Water-Riding an Avalanche-Indian Massacre 9. Among the Indians-An Unfair Advantage-Lying on Our Arms-A Midnight Murder-Wrath of Outlaws-A Dangerous, Yet Valuable Citizen 10. History of Slade-A Proposed Fist-Fight-Encounter with Jules-Paradise of Outlaws-Slade as Superintendent- As Executioner-A Doomed Whisky Seller-A Prisoner- A Wife\'s Bravery-An Ancient Enemy Captured-Enjoying a Luxury-Hob-nobbing with Slade-Too Polite-A Happy Escape 11. Slade in Montana-On a Spree-In Court-Attack on a Judge-Arrest by the Vigilantes-Turn-out of the Miners- Execution of Slade-Lamentations of His Wife-Was Slade a Coward? 12. A Mormon Emigrant Train-The Heart of the Rocky Mountains- Pure Saleratus-A Natural Ice-House-An Entire Inhabitant-In Sight of\"Eternal Snow\"-The South Pass- The Parting Streams-An Unreliable Letter Carrier-Meeting of Old Friends-A Spoiled Watermelon-Down the Mountain-A Scene of Desolation-Lost in the Dark- Unnecessary Advice-U.S. Troops and Indians-Sublime Spectacle- Another Delusion Dispelled-Among the Angels 13. Mormons and Gentiles-Exhilarating Drink, and Its Effect on Bemis-Salt Lake City-A Great Contrast-A Mormon Vagrant-Talk with a Saint-A Visit to the King-A Happy Simile 14. Mormon Contractors-How Mr. Street Astonished Them- The Case before Brigham Young, and How He Disposed of It-Polygamy Viewed from a New Position 15. A Gentile Den-Polygamy Discussed-Favorite Wife and D 4-Hennery for Retired Wives-Children Need Marking -Cost of a Gift to No. ~A Penny-Whistle Gift and Its Effects-Fathering the Foundlings-It Resembled Him- The Family Bedstead 16. The Mormon Bible-Proofs of Its Divinity-Plagiarism of Its Authors-Story of Nephi-Wonderful Battle-Kilkenny Cats Outdone 17. Three Sides to All Questions-Everything a Quarter-Shriveled Up-Emigrants and White Shirts at a Discount-\"Forty- Niners\"-Above Par-Real Happiness 18. Alkali Desert-Romance of Crossing Dispelled-Alkali Dust-Effect on the Mules-Universal Thanksgiving 19. The Digger Indians Compared with the Bushmen of Africa- Food, Life and Characteristics-Cowardly Attack on a Stagecoach- A Brave Driver-The Noble Red Man 20. The Great American Desert-Forty Miles on Bones-Lakes without Outlets-Greeley\'s Remarkable Ride-Hank Monk, the Renowned Driver-Fatal Effects of \"Corking\" a Story- Bald-Headed Anecdote 21. Alkali Dust-Desolation and Contemplation-Carson City-Our Journey Ended-We Are Introduced to Several Citizens-A Strange Rebuke-A Washoe Zephyr at Play- Its Office Hours-Governor\'s Palace-Government Offices -Our French Landlady Bridget O\'Flannigan-Shadow Secrets-Cause for a Disturbance at Once-The Irish Brigade-Mrs. O\'Flannigan\'s Boarders-The Surveying Expedition-Escape of the Tarantulas 22. The Son of a Nabob-Start for Lake Tahoe-Splendor of the Views-Trip on the Lake-Camping Out-Reinvigorating Climate-Clearing a Tract of Land-Securing a Title- Out-house and Fences 23. A Happy Life-Lake Tahoe and Its Moods-Transparency of the Waters-A Catastrophe-Fire! Fire!-A Magnificent Spectacle-Homeless Again-We Take to the Lake- A Storm-Return to Carson 24. Resolve to Buy a Horse-Horsemanship in Carson-A Temptation- Advice Given Me Freely-! Buy the Mexican Plug- My First Ride-A Good Bucker-! Loan the Plug-Experience of Borrowers-Attempts to Sell-Expense of the Ex periment- A Stranger Taken In 25. The Mormons in Nevada-How to Persuade a Loan from Them-Early History of the Territory-Silver Mines Discovered- The New Territorial Government-A Foreign One and a Poor One-Its Funny Struggles for Existence-No Credit, No Cash-Old Abe Curry Sustains It and Its Officers- Instructions and Vouchers-An Indian\'s Endorsement- Toll-Roads 26. The Silver Fever-State of the Market-Silver Bricks- Tales Told-Off for the Humboldt Mines 27. Our Manner of Going-Incidents of the Trip-A Warm but Too Familiar a Bedfellow-Mr. Ballou Objects-Sunshine amid Clouds-Safely Arrived 28. Arrive at the Mountains-Building Our Cabin-My First Prospecting Tour-My First Gold Mine-Pockets Filled with Treasures- Filtering the News to My Companions-The Bubble Pricked-All Not Gold That Glitters 29. Out Prospecting-A Silver Mine at Last-Making a Fortune with Sledge and Drill-A Hard Road to Travel-We Own in Claims-A Rocky Country 30. Disinterested Friends-How \"Feet\" Were Sold-We Quit Tunneling-A Trip to Esmeralda-My Companions- An Indian Prophecy-A Flood-Our Quarters during It 31. The Guests at \"Honey Lake Smith\'s\"-\"Bully Old Arkansas\"-Our Landlord-Determined to Fight-The Landlord\'s Wife-The Bully Conquered by Her-Another Start-Crossing the Carson-A Narrow Escape-Following Our Own Track-A New Guide-Lost in the Snow 32. Desperate Situation-Attempts to Make a Fire-Our Horses Leave Us-We Find Matches-One, Two, Three and the Last-No Fire-Death Seems Inevitable-We Mourn over Our Evil Lives-Discarded Vices-We Forgive Each Other- An Affectionate Farewell-The Sleep of Oblivion 33. Return of Consciousness-Ridiculous Developments- A Station-House-Bitter Feelings-Fruits of Repentance- Resurrected Vices 34. About Carson- Gen. Buncombe- Hyde vs. Morgan-How Hyde Lost His Ranch- The Great Land-Slide Case- The Trial-Gen. Buncombe in Court-A Wonderful Decision- A Serious Afterthought 35. A New Traveling Companion-All Full and No Accornrnodat ions-How Capt. Nye Found Room-And Caused Our Leaving to be Lamented-The Uses of Tunneling- A Notable Example- We Go into the Claim Business and Fail-At the Bottom 36. A Quartz Mill-Arnalgarnation-\"Screening Tailings\"- First Quartz Mill in Nevada-Fire Assay- A Smart Assayer- I Stake for an Advance 37. The Whiteman Cement Mine- Story oflts Discovery- A Secret Expedition- A Nocturnal Adventure- A Distressing Posit ion-A Failure and a Week\'s Holiday 38. Mono Lake-Shampooing Made Easy- Thoughtless Act of Our Dog and the Results-Lye Water-Curiosities of the Lake-Free Hotel-Some Funny Incidents a Little Overdrawn 39. Visit to the Islands in Mono Lake- Ashes and Desolation- Life amid Death- Our Boat Adrift- A j ump for Life- A Storm on the Lake-A Mass of Soap Suds- Geological Curiosities-A Week on the Sierras-A Narrow Escape from a Funny Explosion-\"Stove Heap Gone\" 40. The \"Wide West\" Mine-It Is Interviewed by Higbie- A Blind Lead- Worth a Million- We Are Rich at Last- Plans for the Future 41. A Rheumatic Patient- Day Dreams- An Unfortunate Sturnble- I Leave Suddenly-Another Patient-Higbie in the Cabin-Our Balloon Burst- Worth Nothing- Regrets and Explanations-Our Third Partner 42. What to Do Next?-Obstacles I Had Met With-\"Jack of All Trades\"- Mining Again- Target Shooting-! Turn C ity Editor- I Succeed Finely 43. My Friend Boggs-The School Report-Boggs Pays Me an Old Debt-Virginia City 44. Flush Times-Plenty of Stock-Editorial Puffing-Stocks Given Me-Salting Mines-A Tragedian in a New Role 45. Flush Times Continue-Sanitary Commission Fund-Wild Enthusiasm of the People-Would Not Wait to Contribute- The Sanitary Flour Sack-It Is Carried to Gold Hill and Dayton- Final Reception in Virginia-Results of the Sale- A Grand Total 46. The Nabobs of Those Days-John Smith as a Traveler-Sudden Wealth-A Sixty-Thousand-Dollar Horse-A Smart Telegraph Operator-A Nabob in New York City-Charters an Omnibus-\"Walk Right in, It\'s All Free\"-\"You Can\'t Pay a Cent\"-\"Hold on, Driver, I Weaken\"-Sociability of New Yorkers 47. Buck Fanshaw\'s Death-The Cause Thereof-Preparations for His Burial-Scotty Briggs the Committeeman-He Visits the Minister-Scotty Can\'t Play His Hand-The Minister Gets Mixed-Both Begin to See-\"AII Down but Nine\"-Buck Fanshaw as a Citizen-How to \"Shake Your Mother\"-The Funeral-Scotty Briggs as a Sunday School Teacher 48. The First Twenty-six Graves in Nevada-The Prominent Men of the County-The Man Who Had Killed His Dozen-Trial by Jury-Specimen Jurors-A Private Graveyard-The Desperadoes- Whom They Killed-Satisfaction without Fighting 49. Fatal Shooting Affray-Robbery and Desperate Affray- A Specimen City Official-A Marked Man-A Street Fight-Punishment of Crime 50. Capt. Ned Blakely-Bill Noakes Receives Desired Information- Killing of Blakely\'s Mate-A Walking Battery- Blakely Secures Noakes-Hang First and Be Tried Afterward- Capt. Blakely as a Chaplain-The First Chapter of Genesis Read at a Hanging-Noakes Hung-Blakely\'s Regrets 51. The Weekly Occidental-A Ready Editor-A Novel-A Concentration of Talent-The Heroes and the Heroines-The Dissolute Author Engaged-Extraordinary Havoc with the Novel-A Highly Romantic Chapter-The Lovers Separated- Jonah Outdone-A Lost Poem-The Aged Pilot Man-Storm on the Erie Canal-Dollinger the Pilot Man- Terrific Gale-Danger Increases-A Crisis Arrived-Saved as if by a Miracle 52. Freights to California-Silver Bricks-Underground Mines- Timber Supports-A Visit to the Mines-The Caved Mines-Total of Shipments in 1863 53. Jim Blaine and His Grandfather\'s Ram-Filkins\'s Mistake- Old Miss Wagner and Her Glass Eye-Jacops, the Coffin Dealer-Waiting for a Customer-His Bargain with Old Robbins- Robbins Sues for Damage and Collects-A New Use for Missionaries-The Effect-His Uncle Lem and the Use Providence Made of Him-Sad Fate of Wheeler-Devotion of His Wife-A Model Monument-What about the Ram? 54. Chinese in Virginia City-Washing Bills-Habit of Imitation-Chinese Immigration-A Visit to Chinatown- Messrs. Ah Sing, Hong Wo, See Yup, etc. 55. Tired of Virginia City-An Old Schoolmate-A Two Years\' Loan-Acting as an Editor-Almost Receive an Offer- An Accident-Three Drunken Anecdotes-Last Look at Mount Davidson-A Beautiful Incident 56. Off for San Francisco-Western and Eastern Landscapes- The Hottest Place on Earth-Summer and Winter 57. California-Novelty of Seeing a Woman-\"Well, if It Ain\'t a Child!\"-One Hundred and Fifty Dollars for a Kiss-Waiting for a Turn 58. Life in San Francisco-Worthless Stocks-My First Earthquake- Reportorial Instincts-Effects of the Shocks-Incidents and Curiosities-Sabbath Breakers-The Lodger and the Chambermaid-A Sensible Fashion to Follow-Effects of the Earthquake on the Ministers 59. Poor Again-Slinking as a Business-A Model Collector- Misery Loves Company-Comparing Notes for Comfort- A Streak of Luck-Finding a Dime-Wealthy by Comparison -Two Sumptuous Dinners 60. An Old Friend-An Educated Miner-Pocket-Mining- Freaks of Fortune 61. Dick Baker and His Cat-Tom Quartz\'s Peculiarities-On an Excursion-Appearance on His Return-A Prejudiced Cat- Empty Pockets and a Roving Life 62. Bound for the Sandwich Islands-The Three Captains- The Old Admiral-His Daily Habits-His Well Fought Fields-An Unexpected Opponent-The Admiral Overpowered- The Victor Declared a Hero 63. Arrival at the Islands-Honolulu-What I Saw There-Dress and Habits of the Inhabitants-The Animal Kingdom-Fruits and Delightful Effects 64. An Excursion-Capt. Phillips and His Turn-out-A Horseback Ride-A Vicious Animal-Nature and Art-Interesting Ruins-All Praise to the Missionaries 65. Interesting Mementoes and Relics-An Old Legend of a Frightful Leap-An Appreciative Horse-Horse-Jockeys and Their Brothers-A New Trick-A Hay Merchant-Good Country for Horse Lovers 66. A Saturday Afternoon-Sandwich Island Girls on a Frolic- The Poi Merchant-Grand Gala Day-A Native Dance- Church Membership-Cats and Officials-An Overwhelming Discovery 67. The Legislature of the Island-What Its President Has Seen- Praying for an Enemy-Women\'s Rights-Romantic Fashions- Worship of the Shark-Desire for Dress-Full Dress- Not Paris Style-Playing Empire-Officials and Foreign Ambassadors-Overwhelming Magnificence 68. A Royal Funeral-Order of Procession-Pomp and Ceremony- A Striking Contrast-A Sick Monarch-Human Sacrifices at His Death-Burial Orgies 69. \"Once More upon the Waters\"-A Noisy Passenger-Several Silent Ones-A Moonlight Scene-Fruits and Plantations 70. A Droll Character-Mrs. Beazeley and Her Son- Meditations on Turnips-A Letter from Horace Greeley- An Indignant Rejoinder-The Letter Translated but Too Late 71. Kealakekua Bay-Death of Capt. Cook-His Monument- Its Construction-On Board the Schooner 72. Young Kanakas in New England-A Temple Built by Ghosts-Female Bathers-I Stood Guard-Women and Whisky-A Fight for Religion-Arrival of Missionaries 73. Native Canoes-Surf-Bathing-A Sanctuary-How Built- The Queen\'s Rock-Curiosities-Petrified Lava 74. Visit to the Volcano-The Crater-Pillar of Fire-Magnificent Spectacle-A Lake of Fire 75. The North Lake-Fountains of Fire-Streams of Burning Lava-Tidal Waves 76. A Reminiscence-Another Horse Story-My Ride with the Retired Milk Horse-A Pic-nicking Excursion-Dead Volcano of Haleakala-Comparison with Vesuvius-An Inside View 77. A Curious Character-A Series of Stories-Sad Fate of a Liar-Evidence of Insanity 78. Return to San Francisco-Ship Amusements-Preparing for Lecturing-Valuable Assistance Secured-My First Attempt -The Audience Carried-\"All\'s Well That Ends Well\" 79. Highwaymen-A Predicament-A Huge Joke-Farewell to California-At Home Again-Great Changes. Moral A.-Brief Sketch of Mormon History B.-The Mountain Meadows Massacre C.-Concerning a Frightful Assassination That Was Never Consummated EXPLANATORY NOTES SUPPLEMENTS REFERENCES NOTE ON THE TEXT