In Fashion: Culture, Commerce, Craft, and Identity

Half Title
Series Information
Title Page
Copyright Page
Contents
Illustrations
Notes on Contributors
Introduction
	1 Part 1: Fashioning Representations: Texts, Images, and Performances
	2 Part 2: Fashionable: Shopping, Luxury, Vintage, and Packaging
	3 Part 3: Fashion’s Materials: Craft, Industry, and Innovation
	4 Part 4: Museum Worthy: Fashion and the Archive
	5 Part 5: Fashioning Cultural Identities: Case Studies
	Bibliography
Part 1 Fashioning Representations: Texts, Images, and Performances
	Chapter 1 Sara Gay Model Girl: On Fashion Modelling in Four Girls’ Series Books in 1961
		1 Introduction: A Fashion Model in Fiction in 1961
		2 The Use of Clothing and Fashion in Fiction
		3 The Modelling Profession: From Fashion Doll and Mannequin to Role Model
		4 Femininity as Achievement: Fashion, Beauty, and Identity
		5 Fashion Models and Designers, Circa 1961
		6 Fashion and the City: Urbanity, Educational Space, and Ambition
		7 Paratext: ‘Grabability’ Reading Girls’ Series Books from the Outside In
		8 Discussion: Girls’ Series Books: Fashion, Feminism, and Female Ambition
		9 Conclusion: Models in Fashion, Business, Culture
		Bibliography
	Chapter 2 From the Drawer to the Public Eye: Male Nudity in Fashion Photography
		Bibliography
	Chapter 3 Gone Before It Arrived: The Legacy of the Nehru Jacket in Contemporary Anglo-American Literature
		1 Introduction: The Nehru Jacket in Western Fashion and Fiction
		2 The ‘Novel’ Nehru Jacket
		3 The ‘Pretentious’ Nehru Jacket
		4 The ‘Foolish’ Nehru Jacket
		5 The ‘Anachronistic’ Nehru Jacket
		6 The ‘Nostalgic’ Nehru Jacket
		7 Concluding Reflections
		Bibliography
	Chapter 4 Conversation with a Japanese Designer comme des garçons
		1 Conversation as Controversy
		2 A Conversation between Occident and Orient
		3 The Failure of Conversation?
		Bibliography
Part 2 Fashionable: Shopping, Luxury, Vintage, and Packaging
	Chapter 5 Discounting Dreams: Depravity, Consumption, and Fashion in the Nineteenth Century Department Store in France
		1 Introduction
		2 The Retail Revolution
		3 Size Matters
		4 Conclusion
		Bibliography
	Chapter 6 The Luxury, Social Media, and E-Commerce Conundrum: How Can Luxury Brands Respond to the Digital World and Remain Exclusive, Aspirational, and Alluring?
		1 Introduction
		2 The Changing Retail Landscape in the Luxury Sector
			2.1 The Impact of e-Commerce and Mobile Shopping in the Luxury Sector
			2.2 Brick and Mortar Retail Venues in the Luxury Sector
			2.3 Omni-Channel Retailing in the Luxury Sector
		3 The Allure of Social Media in the Luxury Sector
		4 Conclusion: How Can Luxury Brands Respond to the Digital World and Remain Exclusive, Aspirational, and Alluring?
		Bibliography
	Chapter 7 Fashionable Vintage: The Permeable Boundaries between Vintage Clothing and the Fashion System
		1 Introduction
		2 Methodology
		3 The Rise of Vintage: Challenging the Hierarchy of the Field of Fashion
		4 The Commodification of Vintage
		5 The Commercialisation of Vintage
		6 Conclusion: The Vintage Fashion System
		Bibliography
	Chapter 8 Fashionable through Packaging: Products with an ‘Exterior Shell’
		1 Introduction and Definition of Terms
		2 The Exterior Shell and How It Works
		3 Wrappings
		4 Food Designs
		5 Scented Projects
		6 Conclusion
		Bibliography
Part 3 Fashion’s Materials: Craft, Industry, and Innovation
	Chapter 9 The Case of Fish Skin: A Historical Material Assimilated as an Innovative Sustainable Material for Fashion
		1 Introduction: Historical Context
		2 Disappearance of the Craft
		3 Arctic Indigenous People: Their Relationship with Fish and the Environment
		4 Fish Skin as an Innovative Sustainable Material for Fashion
		5 The Importance of Women and Fish Skin in the Arctic
		6 Fish Skin Fashion in the Arctic
		7 Case study: The Use of Fish Skin by John Galliano
		8 Conclusion
		Acknowledgments
		Bibliography
	Chapter 10 The Future of Customised Garment Fit
		1 Introduction
		2 Mass Customisation
		3 Establishing Effective mtm Products
		4 Management of Customer Expectations and Service
		5 Customer Measurement and Design Choice Acquisition
		6 Customisation and Production Process
		7 Conclusion
		Abbreviations
		Bibliography
	Chapter 11 Maker and Merchant: Identifying the Support Needs of New Fashion Business Models Emerging on the Margins of the Fashion Industry
		1 Introduction
		2 The Rise of the Independent Fashion Designer
		3 Neo-liberalism, the Creative Industries and the Rise of Contemporary Fashion Entrepreneurship
		4 Fashion Design in the Digital Age
		5 The Independent Fashion Entrepreneur: From Career Professional to Precarious Independent to Resilient Entrepreneur
		6 Creative and Commercial Tension and Approaches to Enterprise
		7 Fashpreneurs
		8 Supporting Independent Fashion Practice
		9 Incubators
		10 E-Mentoring
		11 Findings
			11.1 Fashpreneur Case Study Vignette: Meta Design Co.
				11.1.1 Business Characteristics
			11.2 Fashion Incubator Focus Group
		12 Conclusion
		Bibliography
Part 4 Museum Worthy: Fashion and the Archive
	Chapter 12 Starched White Caps and Aprons: Child Nurses and Nannies Dress in Fashion, Uniform, and Costume, 1850–2015
		1 Introduction
		2 Child Nurses, Nannies, and Nursemaids: Some Background
		3 Child Nurses in the Mid-Nineteenth Century
		4 Nursemaids in the Late Nineteenth and Early Twentieth Centuries
		5 Norland Aprons and the Norland Uniform
		6 Conclusion
		Bibliography
	Chapter 13 Material Objects and the Fashion Imaginary: The Multiple Lives of a Lobster Dress
		1 Introduction: A Biography of the Lobster Dress
		2 Concepts of Object Biography
		3 The Dress in the Archive
		4 Lobsters and Mayonnaise – Challenging the Dalínian Approach
		5 Making a Statement – the Lobster Dress in Society
		6 Reinventions and Recurrences
		Bibliography
	Chapter 14 Looking Back to Look Forward: Lessons from the Archives?
		1 Introduction: Issues in Contemporary Fashion
		2 Origins of Mass Production
		3 Global Trading Networks
		4 Masstige – Affordable Style
		5 Marketing and Branding
		6 Standardisation of Bodies
		7 Fashion as Art
		8 Celebrity Marketing
		9 Conclusions
		Bibliography
Part 5 Fashioning Cultural Identities: Case Studies
	Chapter 15 Three Wedding Dresses Worn by Turkish Cypriots, and Their Stories
		1 Introduction: Historical Background
		2 Dressing During Turkish-Cypriot Weddings: Bindallı
		3 The Bindallı as Part of the Family History
		4 Bindallı as Part of the Permanent Collection of the Leventis Municipal Museum
		5 Bindallı Transformed into a Fashionable Dress
		6 Conclusion
		Acknowledgments
		Bibliography
	Chapter 16 An Analysis of Japanese Fashion in Australian Print Media: (Re)presentations in Newspapers and Fashion Magazines
		1 Introduction
		2 Methodology
		3 Findings
			3.1 Content Findings
			3.2 Latent Findings
		4 Conclusion
		Bibliography
	Chapter 17 Fashioning Indian Identity with Khadi Denim
		1 Introduction
		2 Methodology
		3 Innovation in Khadi Denim by Arvind Ltd.
		4 Khadi Denim Apparel by Levi’s India
		5 Natural Indigo Dyeing
		6 Khadi Denim by CellDSGN 11.11 /Eleven Eleven
		7 Conclusion
		Bibliography
	Chapter 18 Fashioning Identity – A Study from Urban India
		1 Introduction: Fashion as a Lived Experience
		2 The Indian Context
		3 Methodological Process
		4 Interpretations of Fashion Phenomena and Fashion Behaviour
			A Fashion: The Youth Connect
			B Negotiating Appearance in Everyday Life
		5 Discussion
		6 Conclusion
		Bibliography
Index