Fashion under Fascism: Beyond the Black Shirt

Contents......Page 8
List of Figures......Page 10
Acknowledgements......Page 12
Fashion and Italian Identity: An Ongoing Process and Love Affair......Page 14
The Bella Figura and the Fashioned Self. The Birth of a Discourse on Dress and the Craze for Fashion in Renaissance Italy......Page 19
Inventing the Italian Look: Between Modernity and Tradition......Page 30
Fashion, Culture and National Identity. Rosa Genoni and the Futurists......Page 40
The “New Woman” and Fascism. Lydia De Liguoro and the Project for an Italian Fashion......Page 49
“An Italian Fashion does not exist yet. We must create it”......Page 59
The Discourse on Fashion Under the Fascist Regime. An Italian Dictionary and Commentary of Fashion by Cesare Meano......Page 70
Restless Voices. Femininity, Motherhood and Gender in Women’s Writing in Bellezza......Page 81
The Commentario and Nationalism......Page 88
Sport, Gender and Models of Femininity......Page 92
Fashion, Film and the Politics of the Regime......Page 99
From Hollywood to France. From France to Italy: Alessandro Blasetti’s Contessa di Parma......Page 104
The Intelligent Fibres: Between Innovation and Autarchy......Page 112
Grandi Magazzini and Standardization......Page 134
Cinegiornali on Fashion: Standardization, Stereotypes and Models of Femininity......Page 141
I Grandi Magazzini by Mario Camerini as a Popular Novel......Page 143
The National Conference on “Clothing and Autarchy,” Turin, June 1940......Page 148
6 Conclusion......Page 160
Appendix: Interview with Micol Fontana......Page 168
Illustrations......Page 182
Notes......Page 192
Bibliography......Page 216
B......Page 228
C......Page 229
E......Page 230
F......Page 231
H......Page 233
L......Page 234
M......Page 235
P......Page 236
R......Page 237
T......Page 238
V......Page 239
Z......Page 240