Coastal Processes with Engineering Applications (Cambridge Ocean Technology Series)

Cover......Page 1
Half-title......Page 3
Title......Page 5
Copyright......Page 6
Contents......Page 7
Preface......Page 11
Acknowledgments......Page 13
PART ONE INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL PROCESSES......Page 15
1.1 INTRODUCTION......Page 17
1.2.1 DESCRIPTIVE TERMS......Page 20
1.2.2 TRANSPORT PROCESSES......Page 22
1.3.1 BEACH NOURISHMENT......Page 23
1.3.2 EFFECTS OF NAVIGATIONAL ENTRANCES – A GENERIC PROBLEM......Page 25
1.3.3 PONCE de LEON INLET, FLORIDA – A WEIR JETTY SYSTEM......Page 26
1.3.4 PORT ORFORD, OREGON......Page 27
1.3.5 EFFECTS OF SHALLOW-WATER PROFILE DEEPENING......Page 28
1.3.6 STORM IMPACT ZONES......Page 29
1.3.7 OFFSHORE BREAKWATERS......Page 30
1.3.8 EFFECTS OF GROINS – IMPERIAL BEACH, CALIFORNIA......Page 31
1.3.9 RECREATIONAL BEACHES......Page 32
EXERCISES......Page 33
APPENDIX: USEFUL UNITS......Page 34
2.2 SAND COMPOSITION......Page 35
2.3 GRAIN SIZES......Page 36
2.3.1 STATISTICS OF THE SAND SIZES......Page 40
2.3.2 SPATIAL AND TEMPORAL VARIATIONS IN SAND SIZE......Page 41
2.5 POROSITY......Page 43
2.6 FALL VELOCITY......Page 44
REFERENCES......Page 46
3.1 INTRODUCTION......Page 49
3.2 RELATIVE SEA LEVEL CHANGE......Page 50
3.2.1 MEASUREMENT OF SEA LEVEL RISE......Page 52
3.3 EQUILIBRIUM BEACH PROFILE......Page 56
3.3.2 EXPECTED BEACH PROFILE RESPONSES......Page 58
3.4.2 SHORELINE CLASSIFICATION SCHEMES......Page 59
3.4.3.1 Beach Profile......Page 60
3.4.3.2 Shore Planform......Page 62
Spits......Page 64
Tombolos......Page 67
Barrier Islands......Page 68
Inlets......Page 70
3.4.3.3 Summary......Page 73
de Beaumont Theory (1845)......Page 75
Gilbert Theory (1885)......Page 76
3.4.5.1 Deltaic Shorelines......Page 78
REFERENCES......Page 79
EXERCISES......Page 80
PART TWO HYDRODYNAMICS OF THE COASTAL ZONE......Page 85
CHAPTER FOUR Tides and Storm Surges......Page 87
4.2 ASTRONOMICAL TIDES......Page 88
4.3 STORM SURGES......Page 92
4.3.1 STORM SURGE COMPONENTS......Page 94
4.3.2 PREDICTION OF THE STORM SURGE......Page 98
REFERENCES......Page 100
EXERCISES......Page 101
5.1 INTRODUCTION......Page 102
5.2 WATER WAVE MECHANICS......Page 103
5.2.1 OTHER WAVE THEORIES......Page 106
5.2.2 WAVE REFRACTION AND SHOALING......Page 108
5.2.4 WAVE BREAKING......Page 110
5.2.5 MEAN WAVE QUANTITIES......Page 114
5.2.6 WAVE SETUP......Page 116
5.3 CROSS-SHORE AND LONGSHORE CURRENTS......Page 117
5.4 LOW-FREQUENCY MOTIONS AT THE SHORELINE......Page 119
5.4.1 SURF BEAT......Page 120
5.4.2 EDGE WAVES......Page 121
5.5 NEARSHORE CIRCULATION AND RIP CURRENTS......Page 125
5.5.1 NUMERICAL MODELING OF NEARSHORE CIRCULATION......Page 127
5.6 SWASH ZONE DYNAMICS......Page 128
5.6.1 OBLIQUELY INCIDENT WAVES AND NO FRICTION......Page 129
5.6.2 NONDIMENSIONAL EQUATIONS......Page 130
5.6.3 OBLIQUELY INCIDENT WAVES WITH LINEAR FRICTION......Page 131
5.6.4 NORMALLY INCIDENT WAVES WITH NONLINEAR FRICTION......Page 133
5.6.5 FIELD AND THEORETICAL STUDIES......Page 134
REFERENCES......Page 135
EXERCISES......Page 139
PART THREE COASTAL RESPONSE......Page 145
6.1 INTRODUCTION......Page 147
6.2.1 WADING AND BOAT SURVEYS......Page 148
6.2.2.1 Instrument Measurements......Page 149
6.3.1 DETERMINING CHANGES IN SAND VOLUME......Page 152
6.3.2.1 Theoretical Basis of the EOF......Page 153
6.3.2.2 Applications of the EOF Method......Page 156
6.3.3 COMPLEX PRINCIPAL COMPONENT ANALYSIS......Page 158
6.3.4 SAND BUDGET......Page 159
6.3.5 EVEN–ODD ANALYSIS OF COASTAL SHORELINE CHANGES......Page 161
6.4 HISTORICAL SHORELINE CHANGES......Page 163
6.4.3 SHORELINE CHANGE QUANTIFICATION......Page 164
6.5 MAJOR FIELD CAMPAIGNS......Page 166
6.6.1 VIDEO METHODS FOR SANDBARS......Page 168
6.6.2.1 Areas of Expected High Siltation......Page 169
6.6.2.2 Longshore Sediment Transport......Page 170
6.6.2.3 Evaluation of Anticipated Sedimentation in a Deep Navigational Channel......Page 171
REFERENCES......Page 172
EXERCISES......Page 174
7.1 INTRODUCTION......Page 176
7.2 METHODS OF DERIVING EQUILIBRIUM BEACH PROFILES......Page 177
7.3.2 CONSTRUCTIVE FORCES......Page 178
7.4.1 UNIFORM WAVE ENERGY DISSIPATION PER UNIT VOLUME......Page 180
7.4.3 UNIFORM BOTTOM SHEAR STRESS......Page 181
7.4.5 VERIFICATION OF THE Ay PROFILE......Page 182
7.4.6 INDEPENDENT FIELD EVALUATION OF EQUILIBRIUM BEACH PROFILES......Page 188
7.4.7 A REEXAMINATION OF THE DESTRUCTIVE FORCES......Page 189
7.4.8 LARSON’S MODEL......Page 190
7.4.8.1 Other Profile Shapes......Page 192
7.4.9 NONUNIFORM SAND SIZES......Page 193
7.4.9.1 Comparisons to Field Profiles......Page 194
7.4.10 EQUILIBRIUM PROFILE, INCLUDING THE EFFECT OF WAVE SETUP......Page 197
7.5.1.1 The Bruun Rule......Page 200
7.5.1.2 Barrier Islands......Page 201
7.5.1.3 The Edelman Method......Page 204
7.5.2 STORM RESPONSE OF THE EQUILIBRIUM PROFILE......Page 205
7.5.3 EQUILIBRIUM PROFILES ON PLANAR BEACHES......Page 207
7.5.4 EQUILIBRIUM PROFILES IN FRONT OF VERTICAL BARRIERS......Page 210
7.5.5 RECESSION OF A NATURAL PROFILE DUE TO STORM SURGES AND WAVES......Page 213
7.5.6 COMPARISON WITH EMPIRICAL ORTHOGONAL FUNCTIONS......Page 215
REFERENCES......Page 216
EXERCISES......Page 217
8.1 INTRODUCTION......Page 224
8.2.1 STEADY FLOW......Page 226
8.2.2 UNSTEADY FLOW......Page 229
8.2.3 DEPTH OF CLOSURE......Page 230
8.3 LONGSHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT......Page 232
8.3.1 ENERGY FLUX MODEL......Page 233
8.3.2 ENERGETICS MODEL......Page 235
8.3.3 SUSPENDED TRANSPORT MODEL......Page 238
8.3.4 LABORATORY AND FIELD STUDIES OF K......Page 239
8.3.6 OTHER TRANSPORT RELATIONSHIPS AND COMPARISON WITH FIELD DATA......Page 244
8.3.7 DISTRIBUTION OF THE LONGSHORE TRANSPORT ACROSS THE SURF ZONE......Page 245
8.4 CROSS-SHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT......Page 246
8.4.1 FALL TIME MODEL......Page 248
8.4.2 SIMPLE CROSS-SHORE TRANSPORT MODEL......Page 250
8.4.3 A TRACTION MODEL FOR CROSS-SHORE TRANSPORT......Page 252
8.4.4 ENERGETICS MODELS......Page 253
8.4.5 RIPPLE MODELS......Page 254
8.5 LITTORAL DRIFT APPLICATIONS......Page 255
8.5.1.1 Littoral Drift Variability......Page 256
8.5.2 LITTORAL DRIFT ROSE......Page 257
8.5.2.1 Change in Shoreline Orientation at a Source or Sink......Page 259
8.5.2.3 Stable and Unstable Shorelines......Page 260
8.6 OVERWASH AND WASHOVER......Page 262
8.7 AEOLIAN SEDIMENT TRANSPORT......Page 264
8.7.1 WIND CHARACTERISTICS......Page 265
8.7.2 CRITICAL SHEAR VELOCITY,…......Page 266
8.7.3 TRANSPORT RELATIONSHIPS......Page 267
8.9 COHESIVE SEDIMENTS......Page 268
8.9.1 CRITICAL SHEAR STRESSES......Page 269
8.9.1.1 Laboratory Measurements......Page 270
8.9.1.2 Field Measurements......Page 271
8.9.1.3 Calculation Procedures......Page 272
8.9.2 RATE OF EROSION......Page 274
REFERENCES......Page 275
EXERCISES......Page 280
9.1 INTRODUCTION......Page 289
9.2 NEARSHORE MORPHOLOGY......Page 290
9.3.1 FORMATION......Page 292
9.4 SAND WAVES......Page 295
9.5 MULTIPLE OFFSHORE SANDBARS......Page 296
9.5.1 VARIABLE WAVE CLIMATE MODEL......Page 297
9.5.3 EDGE WAVE MODEL......Page 298
9.6 BEACH CUSPS......Page 299
9.6.1.1 Edge Waves......Page 300
9.6.4 SELF-ORGANIZATION......Page 303
9.6.5 SWASH MECHANISM FOR BEACH CUSP INITIATION AND MAINTENANCE......Page 304
9.6.5.2 Field Measurements of Dean and Maurmeyer......Page 306
9.6.5.4 Field Measurements by Holland and Holman......Page 309
9.7 SUMMARY......Page 310
REFERENCES......Page 311
EXERCISES......Page 313
10.1 INTRODUCTION......Page 315
10.2 PHYSICAL MODELING OF COASTAL PROCESSES......Page 316
10.2.1 WAVE BASINS AND WAVE TANKS......Page 317
10.2.2 FIXED-BED MODELS......Page 320
10.2.3 MOVABLE BED MODELS......Page 321
10.2.3.1 Beach Profile Models......Page 322
10.2.3.2 Planform Physical Modeling......Page 326
10.3.1 AN ANALYTICAL TIME-VARYING PROFILE MODEL......Page 327
10.3.2 A ONE-LINE PLANFORM MODEL......Page 329
10.3.2.2 Periodic Beach......Page 332
10.3.2.3 Sand Waves......Page 333
10.3.2.4 Point Application of Fill......Page 334
10.3.2.5 Rectangular Beach Fill......Page 335
10.3.2.6 Littoral Barriers......Page 337
10.3.2.7 River Deltas......Page 339
10.3.3 THREE-DIMENSIONAL MODELING......Page 340
10.4.1 PROFILE MODELING......Page 342
10.4.2 PLANFORM MODELING......Page 344
10.4.2.1 One-Line Model Based on Primitive Equations......Page 345
10.4.2.3 Coastal Models......Page 348
REFERENCES......Page 350
EXERCISES......Page 352
PART FOUR SHORELINE MODIFICATION AND ANALYSIS......Page 355
11.1 INTRODUCTION......Page 357
11.2 BEACH NOURISHMENT (BEACH FILL)......Page 358
11.2.2 PLACEMENT OF THE FILL......Page 360
11.2.3 COMPATIBILITY OF THE BORROW MATERIAL......Page 361
11.2.3.1 Profile Types......Page 363
11.2.4 VOLUME CALCULATIONS......Page 365
11.2.4.1 Beach Fill Volume at a Seawalled Beach......Page 370
11.2.5 BEACH PLANFORM RESPONSE......Page 371
11.2.5.1 Longevity of Beach Fills......Page 374
11.2.5.2 The Sea Level Rise Effect on Beach Fills......Page 375
11.2.5.3 Effects of Combined Spreading and Background Erosion......Page 376
11.2.5.5 Effects of Tapered Ends on Beach Fill......Page 377
11.2.5.6 Multiple Nourishments......Page 379
11.2.5.7 Migration of Beach Fills......Page 382
11.2.5.8 Erosional Hot Spots and Related Phenomena......Page 384
11.3 SUBMERGE BERMS......Page 388
11.4 BEACH RAINS......Page 393
11.4.1 PRINCIPLE OF OPERATION......Page 394
REFERENCES......Page 396
EXERCISES......Page 398
12.1 INTRODUCTION......Page 401
12.2 PERCHED BEACH......Page 402
12.3 GROINS......Page 403
12.3.1 GROIN PLANFORM......Page 406
12.3.2 GROIN TYPES......Page 407
12.4.1 SINGLE OFFSHORE BREAKWATER......Page 408
12.4.2 MULTIPLE OFFSHORE BREAKWATERS......Page 411
12.4.3 SUBMERGED BREAKWATERS......Page 412
12.5 ARTIFICIAL HEADLANDS......Page 414
12.5.1 EQUILIBRIUM PLANFORM FOR HEADLAND CONTROL......Page 415
12.6 REVETMENTS......Page 416
12.7.1 EROSION INDUCED BY SEAWALLS......Page 418
12.8 OTHER COASTAL PROTECTION DEVICES......Page 420
12.9 JETTIES AN INLETS......Page 421
REFERENCES......Page 423
EXERCISES......Page 425
13.1 INTRODUCTION......Page 427
13.2 TI AL HYDRODYNAMICS......Page 428
13.2.2 DYNAMIC EQUATION......Page 430
13.2.3 KEULEGAN METHOD......Page 432
13.2.3.1 Bay Tidal Range, Maximum Velocity, and Phase Lag......Page 433
13.2.3.3 Examination of Large and Small Bay Asymptotes......Page 435
13.2.4 LINEAR METHOD......Page 437
13.2.4.1 Comparison of Keulegan and Linear Methods......Page 439
13.2.4.2 Effect of Inlet Cross-Section A on Tidal Prism......Page 440
13.2.4.3 Effect of Changing Bay Planform Area A on the Tidal Prism......Page 442
13.2.5 MAXIMUM VELOCITIES IN THE INLET......Page 443
13.2.6 TIDAL SETUP IN BAYS......Page 444
13.2.8 NONLINEAR TIDAL ANALYSIS......Page 446
13.3 INLET STABILITY......Page 447
13.4 SEDIMENTARY RELATIONSHIPS AT INLETS......Page 451
13.5.1 FIXED SAND TRANSFER SYSTEMS......Page 455
13.5.2 WEIR JETTY SYSTEMS......Page 456
13.5.3 JET PUMPS......Page 458
13.6.2 ADJACENT SHORELINE IMPACT......Page 461
13.7 AN EXAMPLE......Page 462
REFERENCES......Page 463
EXERCISES......Page 464
14.1 INTRODUCTION......Page 466
14.2.2 FACTORS......Page 467
14.2.2.1 Long-Term Shoreline Change Rates......Page 468
14.2.2.2 Economic Base......Page 469
14.2.2.3 Protection of Historic Structures or Vital Infrastructure......Page 470
14.3.1 CONSTRUCTION SETBACK......Page 471
14.3.2 CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS......Page 474
14.4 PROTECTIVE VALUE OF A WIDE BEACH......Page 475
14.5 SAND RIGHTS......Page 477
REFERENCES......Page 478
Author Index......Page 479
Subject Index......Page 485