Arab dress: a short history : from the dawn of Islam to modern times

Table of Contents......Page 8
Introduction......Page 35
Arab Clothing Before the Rise of Islam......Page 40
The Time of the Prophet and Early Islam......Page 42
Early Islamic Laws and Customs Regarding Clothing......Page 55
2. The Evolution of the Islamic Vestimentary System under the Great Caliphates......Page 62
The Trend toward Luxury under the Umayyads......Page 64
Early Attempts at Differentiating Muslim and Non-Muslim Dress......Page 72
The Beginnings of the Institutions of Khil\'a and Tirāz......Page 73
The Emergence and Consolidation of an Islamic Fashion under the \'Abbasids......Page 74
Dress Protocol at the \'Abbasid Court......Page 81
The Economics of Clothing......Page 82
The Clothing of Commoners and Various Social Groups......Page 83
Imposition of Dress Regulations for Non-Muslims......Page 85
The Apogee of Medieval Haute Couture under the Fatimids......Page 86
The Geniza: A Unique Source for Islamic Attire in the Fatimid Period......Page 88
The Clothing of the Military Élite......Page 95
The Clothing of Other Strata of Society......Page 104
Female Attire......Page 108
General Trends in Non-Muslim Dress......Page 116
The Ottoman Period (To Early Modern Times)......Page 117
Pre-Islamic Foundations of Maghrebi Costume......Page 119
Maghrebi Costume During the Early and High Middle Ages......Page 122
Medieval Andalusian Attire......Page 123
The Berber Empires and Their Successor States......Page 126
From the End of the Middle Ages to Modern Times......Page 132
The Origin and Evolution of the Pact of \'Umar and Ghiyār in the Early Islamic Centuries......Page 134
The Trend Toward Stricter Enforcement and Regularization......Page 140
The Apogee of Ghiyār Regulations and Enforcement Under The Mamluks......Page 143
Regional Variation in Late Medieval North Africa......Page 146
Ghiyār in Early Modern Times: The Lingering Authority of Custom and the Impact of Increasing European Penetration......Page 149
The Term Tirāz......Page 153
The Origins of the Tirāz Institution......Page 155
The Early Development of the Tirāz Institution under the Umayyads......Page 157
Full Scale Development of the Tirāz Institution under the \'Abbasids......Page 158
The Tirāz Institution under the Fatimids......Page 161
Tirāz and Robes of Honor under Ayyubids and Mamluks......Page 166
7. Veiling in the Islamic Vestimentary System......Page 171
Veiling in Early Islam......Page 172
Veiling Under the Great Caliphates and the Successor Military Dynasties......Page 175
Evidence for How Medieval Veils Actually Looked......Page 179
Modern Times......Page 183
Modernization, the Early Arab Women\'s Movement, and Unveiling......Page 186
The Modern Resurgence of Veiling: Hijāb Old and New......Page 190
8. Modern Times......Page 194
The Early Pioneer Studies......Page 208
The Jāhili Period and Early Islam......Page 210
The Great Caliphates......Page 211
The Turkish Military Dynasties......Page 213
The Ottoman Period in the Arab World......Page 215
Twentieth-Century Ethnographic Studies......Page 216
The Jews of the Arabic World......Page 219
Other Religious and Ethnic Minorities of the Arab World......Page 222
Jewelry......Page 223
Abbreviations of Journals and Encyclopedias......Page 225
Archival and Manuscripts Sources......Page 226
Bibliography......Page 229
A......Page 248
B......Page 250
C......Page 251
D......Page 253
F......Page 254
G......Page 255
H......Page 256
I......Page 257
K......Page 259
L......Page 260
M......Page 261
N......Page 263
P......Page 264
Q......Page 265
R......Page 266
S......Page 267
T......Page 269
U......Page 271
W......Page 272
Z......Page 273
Addenda & Corrigenda I......Page 276
Addendum to Bibliography......Page 283
Addenda & Corrigenda II......Page 285
Plates......Page 286
Figures......Page 350