Advances in Wool Technology

Advances in Wool Technology......Page 1
The Textile Institute and Woodhead Publishing......Page 3
Contents......Page 4
Contributor contact details......Page 9
Woodhead Publishing in Textiles......Page 12
Preface......Page 17
1.1 Introduction......Page 22
Contents......Page 0
1.2 The techniques of genetic manipulation  for animals......Page 23
1.3 What aspects of wool production might be amenable to genetic manipulation?......Page 24
1.4 Increasing the yield of wool per animal......Page 25
1.5.1 The protein structure of wool and its relation to physical properties......Page 29
1.5.2 The expression of keratin and novel proteins in the fibre by transgenesis......Page 32
1.6 Some other aspects of wool production that could be achieved by transgenesis......Page 36
1.8 References......Page 38
2.1 Introduction......Page 41
2.4.1 Commercial trading......Page 42
2.5 Statistical methods in wool metrology......Page 45
2.5.2 Bias......Page 46
2.5.5 Range......Page 48
2.6 Development of wool measurement systems......Page 49
2.7 Standardisation of measurement systems......Page 50
Grab sampling......Page 54
Core sampling......Page 55
2.9.2 Moisture......Page 56
2.9.3 Yield......Page 57
2.9.4 Fibre diameter......Page 60
2.9.5 Staple measurements......Page 66
2.9.6 Colour......Page 71
2.9.7 Coloured and medullated fibres......Page 72
2.9.9 Style......Page 73
2.10.2 Dark and medullated fibres......Page 74
Staple extensibility......Page 75
Refinement of existing measurement systems......Page 76
2.12 Sources of further information and advice......Page 77
2.13 References......Page 78
3.1 Introduction......Page 80
3.2 The environmentally aware  retailer and consumer......Page 81
3.3 The growing importance of European legislation......Page 82
3.4.1 Type 1, Type 2 and Type 3 ecolabels and greenwash......Page 84
3.4.2 What differentiates organic, biodynamic, ecological, sustainable and ethical wools?......Page 85
3.5.1 What are the residue targets for EU eco- label wool?......Page 96
3.5.2 How to produce EU eco- label low- residue wool......Page 97
3.5.3 Preparing processing consignments of EU eco- label wool......Page 98
3.5.4 Wool scouring requirements......Page 99
3.6 Future trends......Page 101
3.8 References......Page 102
4.1 Introduction......Page 105
4.2.1 Conversion of greasy wool to top......Page 106
4.2.2 Scouring......Page 107
4.2.3 Topmaking......Page 108
4.3 Yarnspec: predicting spinning performanc......Page 109
4.4.1 Spinning technology......Page 110
4.4.2 Winding and clearing......Page 114
4.4.3 Twisting......Page 118
4.5.1 Air- jet spinning......Page 119
4.5.2 New generation self- twist spinning......Page 122
4.8 References......Page 123
5.1 Introduction......Page 125
5.3 Warp preparation......Page 126
5.3.1 Sectional warping......Page 127
Ionisation of the warp-stop motions......Page 128
5.3.3 Drawing- in, tying- in and dropper pinning......Page 129
Tying-in......Page 130
5.3.4 Transportation and loading......Page 131
5.4.1 Structures and constructions in woven wool fabrics......Page 132
5.4.2 Rapier machines ( rigid and flexible)......Page 133
5.4.3 Air-jet machines......Page 134
5.4.4 Jacquard shedding mechanism......Page 135
5.4.5 Quick style changes and other advances......Page 137
5.5.1 Structures and constructions in knitted wool fabrics......Page 138
Flat knitting machines......Page 139
Computerised complete garment knitting machines......Page 140
Circular knitting machines......Page 142
Computer-aided design......Page 144
5.5.3 Warp knitting......Page 145
5.6 Future trends......Page 146
5.8 Further reading......Page 147
6.1 Introduction......Page 149
6.2.1 Web formation......Page 150
6.2.3 Web drafting......Page 153
6.2.5 Wet- laid systems......Page 155
6.3.1 Needle punch......Page 156
6.3.2 Stitch bonding......Page 158
6.3.3 Hydroentanglement......Page 159
6.3.4 Chemical bonding......Page 161
6.3.5 Thermal bonding......Page 162
6.6 Sources of further information and advice......Page 164
6.7 Acknowledgement......Page 165
7.1 Introduction......Page 166
7.2 Dimensional stability and shrink-resist  finishing for machine-washable wool......Page 167
7.3 Stain-repellent and stain-release finishing......Page 177
7.4 Insect-resist and insect-repellent treatments......Page 180
7.5 Flame-retardant finishing......Page 184
7.6 Enzyme applications in wool finishing......Page 186
7.7 Future trends......Page 195
7.9 References......Page 196
8.1 Introduction......Page 202
8.2.1 Anionic or so- called acid dyes in wool dyeing......Page 203
8.2.2 Physical chemistry of wool dyeing......Page 205
8.2.3 Pathways to dye diffusion......Page 208
8.3.1 Chrome dyeing processes......Page 210
Chromium content of residual dyebaths......Page 213
8.3.2 Absorbable organo halogens in wool dyeing and finishing effluents......Page 215
Absorbable organo-halogen (AOX) free shrink-resist finishing and its relation to dyeing......Page 216
Modern reactive dye systems for wool fibres......Page 218
The role of oxidants to prevent setting in dyeing......Page 224
The role of electrophilic reagents to control setting in dyeing......Page 225
8.4 Reactive dyes for wool......Page 217
8.5 Wool protection during dyeing by using reactive dyes and/or anti-setting agents......Page 219
8.6 Ink-jet printing of wool fabrics......Page 226
8.6.1 Ink- jet printing machinery......Page 227
8.7 References......Page 228
9.1 Introduction......Page 233
9.2.1 Evolution and genetics of natural white wool colour......Page 234
9.2.2 Environmental and storage effects on wool colour......Page 236
9.2.3 Measuring wool colour......Page 237
Wet processing and finishing......Page 238
9.3.1 Wool colour compared with cotton and synthetic fibres......Page 239
9.4.1 The natural chromophores in cream wools......Page 242
9.4.2 Influence of fibre morphology and physical properties on wool colour......Page 243
9.4.3 The photostability of wool: photoyellowing and photobleaching......Page 245
9.4.4 The mechanism of wool photoyellowing......Page 247
9.4.5 The mechanism of photoyellowing of FWA- treated wool......Page 252
9.5 Methods for improving the whiteness and photostability of wool......Page 255
9.6 Future trends......Page 257
9.7 Sources of further information and advice......Page 259
9.8 References......Page 260
10.1 Introduction......Page 264
10.1.2 Introduction to nanoparticles and nano- emulsions......Page 265
10.1.3 Introduction to nanostructured films......Page 268
10.1.4 Advantages of nanotechnology on textiles......Page 269
10.1.5 Risks of nanotechnology on textiles......Page 271
10.2.1 Antimicrobial applications......Page 272
10.2.2 Stain blocking and water repellence......Page 273
10.2.4 Novel coloration effects......Page 275
10.3 Current commercial applications of nanotechnology to wool......Page 276
10.5 Sources of further information and advice......Page 277
10.6 References......Page 278
11.1 Introduction......Page 281
11.2 The human system......Page 282
11.2.1 Metabolic heat loss and thermal comfort......Page 283
11.2.2 Skin sensory behaviour and subjective comfort......Page 284
11.3.1 Thermal resistance......Page 285
11.3.3 Fibre moisture sorption......Page 287
11.3.4 Heat of sorption......Page 288
11.3.6 Liquid moisture transport......Page 289
11.3.7 Drying of textiles......Page 291
11.3.8 Odour management......Page 292
11.4 Textiles for sports apparel......Page 293
11.5 The Sportwool concep......Page 295
11.6 Future trends......Page 296
11.7 The role for wool......Page 298
11.8 References......Page 299
12.1 Introduction......Page 300
12.2.1 Felting shrinkage......Page 301
12.2.2 Wrinkle recovery and easy care......Page 302
12.2.3 Prickle reduction......Page 304
12.2.4 Softness to handle......Page 305
12.2.5 Stretch and fit......Page 306
12.2.6 Lightweight fabrics......Page 307
12.2.7 Bulk, cover and warmth without weight......Page 308
12.2.8 Fibre security......Page 309
12.2.9 Flame retardance......Page 310
12.3 Processing systems for wool blend yarns......Page 312
12.4 Spinning wool blend on the long staple worsted system......Page 313
12.5 Processing wool and wool blends on the  cotton spinning system......Page 314
12.5.1 Cleaning and carding of short shorn wool on cotton card......Page 315
12.5.2 Square- cut and stretch- broken wool tops......Page 316
12.6 Wool-filament composite yarn......Page 317
12.6.1 Core yarns......Page 318
12.6.2 Elastane core yarns......Page 319
12.7 References......Page 320
13.2 Definitions and categories of smart textiles......Page 324
13.3 Wool\'s intrinsic \'smartness\'......Page 326
13.4.1 Wool and inherently conductive polymers......Page 327
13.4.2 Electronic textiles incorporating wool......Page 333
13.4.3 Other applications......Page 334
13.6 References......Page 335
14.1 Introduction......Page 339
14.2 Overview of the structure and  characteristics of keratin protein......Page 340
14.3 Extraction of keratin from wool for new product development......Page 341
14.5 Advanced applications of wool keratins......Page 342
14.8 References......Page 345