(Re-)Claiming Bodies Through Fashion and Style: Gendered Configurations in Muslim Contexts

Contents
Notes on Contributors
List of Figures
Introduction: (Re-)Claiming Bodies Through Fashion and Style—Gendered Configurations in Muslim Contexts
	(Re-)Claiming the Gendered Muslim Body
	Constituting, Living, and Challenging the Religionized Gendered Body
	Consumerist Developments of Body Work
	References
Modesty and Fashion: Reconfiguring Social Conditions and Identifications
Beauty East, Beauty West: Muslim Beauty in Indonesian Islamic Magazines
	Jilbab: Meanings and Identity
	Women’s Beauty in Islamic Women’s Magazines: Between Eastern and Western Beauty
	Conclusion
	References
“Your Life Would Be Twice as Easy If You Didn’t Wear It, It’s Like a Superhero’s Responsibility.” Clothing Practices of Young Muslim Women in Germany as Sites of Agency and Resistance
	Contesting Debates on the “Appropriate” Veiling
	Hypervisibility and Self-Positioning as Veiled Women in Germany
	(Re)Claiming the Body as a Site of Resistance Through Clothing Practices
	Community Building on Instagram
	Conclusion
	References
“How I Wear My Headscarf.” Narratives About Dress and Styling from Young Muslim Women in Copenhagen
	Introduction and Literature Overview
	The International Modest Fashion Industry
	Modest Fashion in Denmark
	Methodology
	Insights from the Study: Development of the Modest Fashion Market in Copenhagen, Denmark
	Insights from Study: How I Wear My Headscarf
	Insights from Study: Modest Fashion in Copenhagen in a Five Year Perspective
	Insights from Study: International Context and Social Media
	Discussion and Preliminary Findings on Modest Fashion in Copenhagen
	References
Trending Muslim Appeal and the Discourse on Intersectional Diversity
	Introduction: Looking Muslim and the Paradigm of Intersectional Diversity
	Conceptual Thoughts on Fashion as Embodied Practice
	Trending Muslim Appeal in Mainstream Fashion—Empirical Data
		Methodology
		Diversity in Fashion—An Industry Is Awakening
		The Veiling Trend—Fetishizing or Including Muslim Women?
	Conclusion: The Hegemony of Looking Good
	References
Men’s Non-Fashion: Embodying Authority in the Gulf
	Introducing the Field: An Incident in Dubai Mall
	Men’s Garments
	Embodying Nationality and Culture
	Gendered Fashion and Non-Fashion
	Conclusion
	References
Normative Orders, Subjectivation and Counteractive Practices
The Halal Nail Polish: Religion and Body Politics in the Marketplace
	Faith, Fashion, and Body
	The Nail Polish Controversy
	Piety
	Modesty
	Authority
	Conclusion
	References
Hijab as Migration: Embracing and Leaving Hijab in Contemporary Indonesia
	Hijrah Phenomenon, Fashion Industry, and Veiling Experiences
	Leaving Hijab and In-Between World
	Embracing and Leaving Hijab as Migration
	References
After the Hijab: Liminal States of Post-veiling Embodiment
	Unveiling in Modern Muslim Communities
	De-veiling as Tactical
	Transition and Liminal Embodiment
	Transitioning Out from the Regimes of Veiling
	The Threat of Liminality
	Conclusion
	References
High Heels and Rainbow Hijab
	Introduction
	Genders and Islam
	The Transgenders of South Asia: The Semi-sacred Hijras
	The Rainbow Spectrum in Islam and Their Expressions in Dressing
	Fashion: Cultural Forms or Political Assertions?
	Conclusion
	References
Materiality, Political Discourses, and Power
The Fabric of Diasporic Designs: Wearing Punjabi Suits Home and Away Among South Asian Women in Europe
	Literature Review: Ethnic Fashion Gone Modern
		Salwar-Kameez: A Critical History
	Methods and Context
	Pulling the Drawstring: Diaspora Experiences and Gendered Fashion Habits
		Simran (Brescia): Sewing Entrepreneurship
		Debi (Amsterdam): From Slaves to Starlets
		Rachida (Birmingham): Fashion Heritage and the Body Proper
	From a Digital Survey to a Tentative Discussion
	Conclusion
	References
Materiality, the Malaḥfa (Mauritanian Veil), and Social Hierarchy
	Shifting Social Rank
	The Materiality of Dress
	The Duality of the Malaḥfa: Religious Garment and Vehicle for Seduction
	Malaḥfas, Wealth, and Social Networks
	Transparent Fabrics and Creating Beautiful Personas
	Conclusion
	References
More Than a Garment: The haïk in Algeria as a Means of Embodied Artistic Expression
	The Artist and a First Attempt of Framing the Haïk
	“Forbidden Gaze, Muted Sound”5: The Haïk, Orientalist Pictures and Colonialization
	Frantz Fanon and the Veil—The Remote Colonized Subject
		After Independence: A New Identity in (Not Only) Women’s Dress
	Souad Douibi and the Haïk: Art and Representation
	The “Return of the Storks” or: Why to Wear the Haïk?
	Official Memories of War and Martyrdom
	“The Drowning Eye”16: Images of Women Between Memory and Dream
	Conclusion
		A Public Space for Artistic and Civil Expression
		Different Images of Women
		Play with Complex Memories
	References
Toward a Self-Empowered Female Body: Body Language, Tactility, and Materiality in Contemporary Art
	It’s All About Freedom, Isn’t It?
	Orientalism: A Discourse of Power
		A One-Way Discourse?
	Artistic Intervention
		Self-Empowerment as Artistic Strategy
		“It’s Time We See New Imagery”12
	The Medium Matters
		An Extension of the Art Canon: Fashion
	Art as a Way Out
	Conclusion
	References
Index